Yeah, I was interested for a while and then it went out of my league. But it sure is beautifull, enjoy it!
John
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G&L Club Part 2
- Thread starter Bryan R. Tyler
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Yeah, I was interested for a while and then it went out of my league. But it sure is beautifull, enjoy it!
John
Never heard that part before.
I'd be surprised if the truss rod has any effect on buzzing above the 12th, since the rod ends in these necks at around 16 or 17 and the neck attaches to the body at 15. Is there really any room for adjustment up there?
Chef
In Memoriam
This is pretty well accepted, I've read it in a number of reliable set up guides. But if you want to test it out it is easy to do. Just loosen your truss rod until you get some frets buzzing, then note which frets are buzzing. I've done it, so I know it is true.
Think about it a little. If you have a lot of bow the highest frets will be higher than the frets lower than them (down to the bottom of the bow, but not below that). So if you play the 12th fret the frets above it will be higher and buzz.
Don't mean to jump in, but I'm still not quite understanding this. I don't think I've ever owned a bass where this was the case either. The truss rod mostly affects relief below (towards the headstock) the 12th fret position. Above that (going towards the body), you're pretty much stuck with the relief, if any, in that portion of the board. There your only options are adjusting the action or actually shaping the board. I.e. my L2000 had a slight ski jump in the board centered around the 10th fret position. I was able to dial a lot of it out above that with the truss rod, but to really get rid of the part on the heel I had to sand down the last couple of inches of the board with a sanding block. Then I had to file down the bridge slots to get the action back down to where I wanted it.
My L2000 is a fretless BTW so I was able to do this with a sanding block, on the fretted you'd have to do something similar accounting for the frets.
So still not quite clear what you're getting at here?
LS
It has nothing to do with ski jump.
Just try it yourself and you'll see. Loosen the truss rod until it just starts to buzz on some frets and note which frets buzz.
Or read this:
Invalid Link Removed
If after lowering the strings, the notes buzz only above the 12th fret, then there's too much bow in the neck. You'll need to tighten the truss rod.
If after you lower the strings, the notes only buzz in the 1st 5 frets then your neck is too straight. You'll need to loosen the truss rod.
If after you lower the strings, the notes buzz all up and down the neck, the neck's fine. Your strings are just too low.
Strost, I am going to be the lone disenting that says that if I was you, I would take it to a luthier. Maybe it is more expensive, but it may be more safe too.
Take care!
John
Take care!
John
If you do this, find a luthier that will do free adjustments to the setup. It will take a few months for the neck to settle into its new climate, so there will definitely be some adjustments in the near future.
Thanks all. I'm gonna sit with it a bit and see what I think in a few days. I played it again and didn't notice the buzz as much. So one of us (either me or the bass) is mellowing.
I may take it in for a professional checkup one of these days.
Weird thing - the first time I played it I got no electronic buzz from the pups when I soloed one of them. I played it again a few hours later and got a good deal of buzz. I'm not suprised, it is a "vintage" jazz pickup. I just don't understand electricty.
But I'm still lovin' it.
I may take it in for a professional checkup one of these days.
Weird thing - the first time I played it I got no electronic buzz from the pups when I soloed one of them. I played it again a few hours later and got a good deal of buzz. I'm not suprised, it is a "vintage" jazz pickup. I just don't understand electricty.
But I'm still lovin' it.
Ah, never mind. I see what you're saying now.
I have a slightly different procedure for getting there, but I arrive at basically the same setup in the end (mine are fretless but it's the same procedure):
- set the action first, as low as possible for acceptable buzz at the heel (14th fret positions and up).
- tighten the rod until buzz is acceptable everywhere all up and down the neck.
- recheck action at heel.
I'll sometimes sight down the neck to get an idea of where the relief is set when I start, but normally there's too much relief so I just start by tightening the rod.
But this yeilds a perfect setup for me every time. On my L2000, the neck is virtually flat from the 12th fret position to the nut. On my Carvin Bunny 4 string, I ended up at a little negative relief (backbow) from the 12th fret to the nut (long story, but it's perfect as-is).
LS
Well, just goes to show that I JUST got it
It sounds very single coil...
Is there an easy place to get the switch layout diagram so I can learn to speak G&L....?
Thanks in advance..
just picked up my new '81 (lefty) L-1000. i messed around with it a bit and both the microtilt and truss rod are in working order, but i'm not all that experianced with the microtilt system, so i'm gonna take it to Mike Lull on monday, where he can adjust it properly. the case that came with it appears to be the original, along with the keys to lock it, a baggy with all 3 allen wrenches to adjust the bass, and an inspection tag dated 2-27-81.
Chef
In Memoriam
yup. i'm so excited! new strings and a setup will do it justice. the only thing i noticed, and you warned me, is that it is very heavy, as heavy as my '83 aria. i think they're around 11-12lbs.
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