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G&L Club Part 7

really hard choice, I love both white and blue burst.
my current white and blue-burst G&Ls

El Toro.jpg
EA4F4400-4163-4730-8EFC-176FC647A350.jpeg
 
Nice to hear. I'd have expected it might just be too thick.

My El-Toro in series is just so dark but they also have a cap draining off some of the highs in that mode which I might remove.
After having serial/parallel on a Fender Jazz Bass and it getting more output but thicker and darker I thought the same but the SB-2's MDF's are a whole other animal. I can tell you exactly what it sounds like. Turn the neck to max and the bridge volume to 75 percent. Sounds like that but a little more output, extremely quiet, and the tone is not even close to dark or too thick sounding. Just very quiet and more output. It has fabulous tone.
 
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Anyone in here have a ramp or some sort of extended thumb rest on their Kiloton? I love the pickup placement for my main hand position but am thinking about something closer toward the neck.
You may have to get a ramp custom built. I used to own a Kiloton and ultimately sold it because of the pickup placement. My hand kept wanting to slide past the pickup, almost to the bridge.

I tried the zero-mod like suggested by the other poster, but then my hand was too high up. If only they had moved that pickup half an inch up it would have been perfect for me! Good luck with your search.
 
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Anyone in here have a ramp or some sort of extended thumb rest on their Kiloton? I love the pickup placement for my main hand position but am thinking about something closer toward the neck.
I just bought one of these and installed it. It's simple, cheap, and it works great for me. They're also available in white or a couple different shades of woodgrain depending on your taste.
True Custom Shop® Black Thumb Rest for Fender Jazz & Precision P Bass w/h Screws | eBay
 
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This just dawned on me:

The given thickness specs for a G&L neck remain the same, whether the fretboard has a flattish 12" radius, or the compromise 9½" radius, or the old fashioned rounded 7½". The distance from the middle of the fretboard to the back of the neck is constant.

If the thickness of the fretboard in the middle is always the same then to make a flattish 12" radius, they sand off only a little at the edges, whilst to create a curved 7½" they have to shave off more.

In other words, the flatter the fretboard, the more wood has been left behind.

The Tribute L2k has a reputation for a truly chunky neck. It has a 1¾" nut .... and a 12" radius.
 
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I have one.

Lovely bass, and absolutely a big chonking piece of equipment.

Nut width is 1.775. I wouldn't want it any larger - unless you have giant mitts, you won't be doing a lot of wrapping your thumb around the neck.

I pulled out a ruler and realize my current 5 string with 19mm bridge spacing is 1.75" at the nut, and I like it. I guess the wider bridge spacing makes for wider spacing for the fretting hand as I go up the neck.

Anyway, thoughts on the Okume vs Basswood vs Ash options on these things?
 
This just dawned on me:

The given thickness specs for a G&L neck remain the same, whether the fretboard has a flattish 12" radius, or the compromise 9½" radius, or the old fashioned rounded 7½". The distance from the middle of the fretboard to the back of the neck is constant.

If the thickness of the fretboard in the middle is always the same then to make a flattish 12" radius, they sand off only a little at the edges, whilst to create a curved 7½" they have to shave off more.

In other words, the flatter the fretboard, the more wood has been left behind.

The Tribute L2k has a reputation for a truly chunky neck. It has a 1¾" nut .... and a 12" radius.
That's odd, because of the 3 GLs I own, (all US models), the one with the chunkiest (depth) neck is the jb2.
Jb2 1.5" nut 7.5" Radius
L1k 1.65" / 12"
Kton 1.5" / 9.5"
I like the different feel of all 3 necks. I did own an lb100 for a while, that had a 1.65/9.5 neck.
That was my least favorite, but i think that had more to do with the larger body.
I really love the slimmer, streamlined body shapes of my current 3.
 
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That's odd, because of the 3 GLs I own, (all US models), the one with the chunkiest (depth) neck is the jb2.
I love how with G&L reported reality has such a complex relationship with published statements :D

Since I've only got the latter to offer, this is a good moment for me to :speechless: and listen.

One bit of reality I can report: with the ridiculous saga of the pink SB-1 recently reaching its happy end, I've finally been able to file away the whole experience .... and have now taken the first tiny step in a fresh attempt at getting myself G&L-ed :smug: Details will come once things are firm (but no pink this time!)
 
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I love how with G&L reported reality has such a complex relationship with published statements :D

Since I've only got the latter to offer, this is a good moment for me to :speechless: and listen.

One bit of reality I can report: with the ridiculous saga of the pink SB-1 recently reaching its happy end, I've finally been able to file away the whole experience .... and have now taken the first tiny step in a fresh attempt at getting myself G&L-ed :smug: Details will come once things are firm (but no pink this time!)
upload_2021-12-18_10-32-47.jpeg
:D
 
The L and SB/K body shapes are very comfortable.
The SB/K is my favorite, and if they decided to streamline production, and start using that body on the L-series, I wouldn't be mad about it.
After playing J basses off and on over the years, the JB2 was my gateway bass into sleek bodied Fender type basses. It's become an obsession….
 
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I pulled out a ruler and realize my current 5 string with 19mm bridge spacing is 1.75" at the nut, and I like it. I guess the wider bridge spacing makes for wider spacing for the fretting hand as I go up the neck.

Anyway, thoughts on the Okume vs Basswood vs Ash options on these things?

So mine is Okume. I like the figuring on the bass, and the entire instrument resonates well….

So well that I discovered one of the buttons (where you actually turn in order to tune) was a bit loose and would occasionally rattle. A quick application of Glu Boost and the rattle is gone and it's nice and solid.

The culprit on the tuner appears to be that the fork where the button inserts into was a little bit wider than it should be, which allowed some play in the button after it was riveted in. The only reason I noticed it was having the bass at the right angle for it to vibrate the wrong way.

Overall the balance of the instrument is great. It feels lighter than my Steve Harris signature Precision did, for what it's worth, but is definitely not a lightweight instrument.
 
Hello all.

I am not sure if my L2000 has the inner or outer SC mod. I am not electronically minded, looking in the cavity will only confuse me. I remember reading somewhere that there is a way of tapping the pickups in SC mode to find out which kind of mod was done. Does anyone know how to do this?

Thanks!

pretty easy… just plug into an amp and turn everything on, but not too loud, and switch to the SC mode. Take a screwdriver (or something that attracts magnetically to the pickup) and lightly tap one of the poles of the pickup. It it makes noise, it's the side of the pickup being used. Repeat as desired.