Saw the L5500 used by Andy Peterson in the early 2000s. That's when I decided to buy a G&L.
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Harvey Brooks played a 5500 too, a Honeyburst/rosewood one. In fact he listed it on ebay for $650 back in the day.
They did an L5000. It was very much not a 4 string bass* with EMGs.
*aside from the fact that they fit 5 strings on a 4 string neck.
On the L5500 note. I have thought about buying one several times but never done it. There is a fretless one on Reverb right now that would tempt me if the price was right.
Nice 5K there! That's one of the few G&L's that has eluded me somehow. I still want one, too! Interesting finish on that one, what was it officially called?
Lake Placid Blue. Completed October 22, 1993. Mention the build date because that was near the end of production on the L5000. Seems to have been more variety of finishes towards the end of production versus early on. You mostly see black, white, red, Sunburst, and dark blue on them. Registry shows later builds (1992-1993) with clear red, LPB (mine), and purple.
Surprising number of L5000s for sale right now. Usually see one or two pop up a year. Currently two on Reverb and one on eBay. eBay one is overpriced for its condition IMO, but the other two look fairly clean.
Photos? I have been thinking about buying a 4 string P bass and have no idea how I would spec it. Seeing your post makes me think matching the L5000 could be a solid choice.
I'll see if I can find or take any. It's LBP with a "vintage pearloid" PG and rosewood board. Currently sporting a split MFD instead of the original Alnico P pickup.
I picked up my JB-2 Tribute today, and it's really in nice shape and sounds great, a little hotter than my Squier, but with SS round wounds (on the G&L) vs flats on the Squier, the G&L is definitely brighter. They sound very similar though other than that. I do like the smaller (P sized) size of the G&L body vs the Squier.
One thing - it's missing the set screw for the saddles in the bridge. Anyone know what size it is? I need that, and the saddles on the bridge have quite a bit of corrosion on them. I may have to replace them (or maybe just the whole bridge with a new factory-style one later), and the spring for the E string saddle looks odd, like it was replaced with something that didn't match up w/ the original, unless that's normal. The neck was really dirty, but very little wear, and the body just has a few really fine scratches, the kind you'll never see unless you REALLY look closely. Needed a set up badly, as the intonation was way off and the height needed adjusted as well.
One thing - it's missing the set screw for the saddles in the bridge. Anyone know what size it is? I need that, and the saddles on the bridge have quite a bit of corrosion on them. I may have to replace them (or maybe just the whole bridge with a new factory-style one later), and the spring for the E string saddle looks odd, like it was replaced with something that didn't match up w/ the original, unless that's normal. The neck was really dirty, but very little wear, and the body just has a few really fine scratches, the kind you'll never see unless you REALLY look closely. Needed a set up badly, as the intonation was way off and the height needed adjusted as well.
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G&L sells the set screws, there's a small nylon bushing that goes in before the screw and pushes against the bridge saddle also. No idea the size. Kind of pricey to just use one, but it's up to you.
Trem Arm/Saddle Lock Bridge Tension Screw Set
A lot of us, including me, just go without that set screw that smashes the saddles together
That different spring is normal, so it can be compressed more than the other three, to allow the #4 saddle to be the furthest back, where it needs to be.
Replace the little set screw and nylon pad if you like, but it's not clear whether there's any real advantage trying to squeeze the saddles together. Not all Leo's brain storms worked as advertised, and I think that set screw deleo is one of them.
YMMV. Cheers.
That different spring is normal, so it can be compressed more than the other three, to allow the #4 saddle to be the furthest back, where it needs to be.
Replace the little set screw and nylon pad if you like, but it's not clear whether there's any real advantage trying to squeeze the saddles together. Not all Leo's brain storms worked as advertised, and I think that set screw deleo is one of them.
YMMV. Cheers.
Thsnks. I appreciate your feedback, as well as that from @FearNoEvil65 and @jglunt
but I think I hear a difference with the set screw tightened.Man, this thing is cool, seems like a nice deal, too
https://reverb.com/item/83136427-g-...iece-ash-body-factory-paperwork-case-gorgeous
https://reverb.com/item/83136427-g-...iece-ash-body-factory-paperwork-case-gorgeous
I mostly engage it because I can't stand the saddles buzzing when the Saddle-Lock is disengaged (the saddles are fairly thin, so if the Saddle-Lock is disengaged the saddles are just kinda free-floating), I haven't really noticed a difference in amplified sound.That different spring is normal, so it can be compressed more than the other three, to allow the #4 saddle to be the furthest back, where it needs to be.
Replace the little set screw and nylon pad if you like, but it's not clear whether there's any real advantage trying to squeeze the saddles together. Not all Leo's brain storms worked as advertised, and I think that set screw deleo is one of them.
YMMV. Cheers.
Or perhaps not. lol.
This morning I tried to take Old Yeller apart and swap the electronics into Ruby Slipper. You know how you open a wall to replace an electrical socket and then keep finding issues in there that end up costing you thousands?
Well.
This fell out. No idea what it is. Then I had to physically crack the old body apart to get at the electronics, which are in VERY sad shape.
Now I have some pondering to do about how badly I want to finish all this.
It'll eventually look like this:
So. I'll do some thinking.
