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G&L Club Part 7

You could taken that money and have Status Graphite make you a graphite neck. They do G&L.

I've had several graphite necked basses. Peavey G Basses, Peavey G V, and Peavey B Quad 4s and a 5. The G's are unknown manufacturer, but rumored to be Modulus. The B Quads were definitely Modulus necks. So, I haven't had a Status graphite neck. That said, I really don't want another graphite neck.

I like a neck with the feel of bare wood. None of the ones I've had can approach that. I suspect Status can't, either.

Me EBMM Sterling 5H and my Peavey Cirrus 6 (and previously owned Cirrus 5) and Millennium 5 have the best feeling necks I have experienced. Well, and the '66 Precision I used to have, because it WAS virtually bare wood. The Sterling neck is my favorite, even though it seems to react to weather more than any other bass I've had. But, I don't mind tweaking the truss rod as necessary to keep the action super low, in order to have that feel.
 
I'll take a number if we're doing that.

I finally got my LB-100 after 8.5 months of getting one with a bad neck, getting a new neck but messed up electronics, and then a rebuild. Plays fantastic and sounds equally as good. Needs some shielding though. Is a little noisy when everything is open.

Old School Tobacco Sunburst
#12 Neck, Quartersawn w/ Light Tint Satin
Custom Cocobolo Knobs w/ a Maple Line Indicator from hipelagoglass.com/agstore/index.php/all-wood-knobs.html

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I'll take a number if we're doing that.

I finally got my LB-100 after 8.5 months of getting one with a bad neck, getting a new neck but messed up electronics, and then a rebuild. Plays fantastic and sounds equally as good. Needs some shielding though. Is a little noisy when everything is open.

Old School Tobacco Sunburst
#12 Neck, Quartersawn w/ Light Tint Satin
Custom Cocobolo Knobs w/ a Maple Line Indicator from hipelagoglass.com/agstore/index.php/all-wood-knobs.html

View attachment 414809 View attachment 414810
Welcome to the club. Please add G&L Club Member# 541 to your signature on Talk Bass. Thanks Joe.
 
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My new MJ-4 has with Ebony board and Stainless Steel Frets on Pearl White. It is a truly great bass. I also just picked up this LB 100 form a fellow TB'er. Should be here sometime next week. I would love a number also.
 

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Here's the back of a G&L M-2000 pickup:

20140505_1540111_zpsc2a81662.jpg


The north coil is above the south coil respectively in the picture. These pups are wired in series, but I think I'd like to wire them for series/single/parallel given that I can figure out from the picture that green/yellow wires are north coil and the black/white are south coil. what I need to figure out now is which is north start, north finish, south start, and south finish. Any ideas from the picture?

I forgot to mention something. You can see how the green wire is soldered to that back plate and then continues with a green wire connected to the other corner, right? This is how G&L ground the shielding plates on their pups.
 
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Here's the back of a G&L M-2000 pickup:

20140505_1540111_zpsc2a81662.jpg


The north coil is above the south coil respectively in the picture. These pups are wired in series, but I think I'd like to wire them for series/single/parallel given that I can figure out from the picture that green/yellow wires are north coil and the black/white are south coil. what I need to figure out now is which is north start, north finish, south start, and south finish. Any ideas from the picture?

I forgot to mention something. You can see how the green wire is soldered to that back plate and then continues with a green wire connected to the other corner, right? This is how G&L ground the shielding plates on their pups.

You might have the risk that the pickups sound thin and flimsy in single, maybe even in parallel. The M pickup wasn't designed to do that. The L pickup is. What I could do is take out my L pickup and make a pic. You might find your way around the wires.
 
Only recently been introduced to G&L bass, and I absolutely love them! Would probably go the way of a 5 string if I ever get one, and it would have to be in cherry burst! I currently play a stingray 4hh and love it! I'm not going to use the word better, because I know how frustrating it can be to hear people ask which bass is better, but which do you think would suit me better - the l-2500 or m-2500? I've seen Ed Friedland's m2500 vs l2500 mash up video, but I'm still not sure. I suppose I'd be more used to the m2500's controls set up, by I quite like the l2500 controls, something a bit diferent.

Apologies if I've opened a big ol' can of worms :rollno:
 
Only recently been introduced to G&L bass, and I absolutely love them! Would probably go the way of a 5 string if I ever get one, and it would have to be in cherry burst! ... which do you think would suit me better - the l-2500 or m-2500?

An excellent choice. :D

I have no input on the L vs M question. I have not played or even heard an M-series. For me, a G&L 5-string means only one thing: the L-2500.

IMG_0857.jpg
 
Two months ago I took my L2000 1981 year for a refreting. Frets were dead and the wood was crying because of bruises strings made on fingerboard. I ordered Ferd Wagner steel frets with similar to original size. Asked also for nitro laquer.
Thats the results of luthier's work:

dh5yes.jpg


2nsm6c9.jpg


2hnuw01.jpg

Looks like they did a nice job.

I see you're in the Chicago area, who did the work for you?
 
You might have the risk that the pickups sound thin and flimsy in single, maybe even in parallel. The M pickup wasn't designed to do that. The L pickup is. What I could do is take out my L pickup and make a pic. You might find your way around the wires.
This is true. Apparently the M pups are constructed the same as the L pups, but underwound by 12%. I would think the single and parallel settings compared to the series setting on the M would be similar to the differences between the single and parallel settings compared to the series setting on the L, but I could be wrong.
 
Only recently been introduced to G&L bass, and I absolutely love them! Would probably go the way of a 5 string if I ever get one, and it would have to be in cherry burst! I currently play a stingray 4hh and love it! I'm not going to use the word better, because I know how frustrating it can be to hear people ask which bass is better, but which do you think would suit me better - the l-2500 or m-2500? I've seen Ed Friedland's m2500 vs l2500 mash up video, but I'm still not sure. I suppose I'd be more used to the m2500's controls set up, by I quite like the l2500 controls, something a bit diferent.

Apologies if I've opened a big ol' can of worms :rollno:

It's not exactly a can of worms. It's the same old question: How do you feel about knobosity? Some cats
simply FREAK at the idea of weird knobs and switches. Me, I'm the opposite! My L2500 not only have the standard switches and weird passive EQ knobs but also have the single coil K-mod added as well as the OMG 3 dB bass boost on a push-pull on the treble knob. All three of my L2500 are like this and the two USA are a blueburst fretted-fretless pair. Just too cool for words! (In my opinion, natch).

These basses are rough and ready and can be as aggressive as you want to be. They have amazing tonal range that covers the world. They are my main 5 string axes and I'm in love.

But is that you? As I said, some people don't know what to do with the switches and the subtle tone shifts they give you. Some people don't like unrefined aggression. Some people want that standard sort of laid back more modern kind of bass with standard bass-treble EQ and milder underwound pickups. That could be you. Sometimes it's even me! But I've got quite a few other 6ers in that kind of style so I don't worry about having it in a G&L much. But if you don't have that kind of bass yet, maybe the M2500 is a place to start?

It's up to you.
 
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