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G&L Club Part 7

Can't speak to the exact years, but during the 90's the default neck for the L-2000, L-1500, and SB-1 was the #7 (1 3/4"). The ASAT and SB-2 were #6. I don't think any models came default with a #5 neck, but it was an option. Not sure exactly when the #8 neck became available, but #8 was the default neck for the JB-2, which debuted in 2001. It's so confusing! Cheers.

Hmm... I always thought the #5 was used as default in the ‘90s. At least all of the 90s basses I’ve played have had the 7.5” radius. I didn’t think they flattened out until later, but I could be wrong.
 
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Hmm... I always thought the #5 was used as default in the ‘90s. At least all of the 90s basses I’ve played have had the 7.5” radius. I didn’t think they flattened out until later, but I could be wrong.

This is correct.

7.5" radius, 3 bolt
#5 default for L2000, L1500, SB-1
#6 default for ASAT, SB-2, Climax

12" radius, 6 bolt
#7 default for L2000, L1500, SB-1
#8 default for ASAT, SB-2, Climax

This neck radius change coincided with the body shape change that happened in the early 2000s. The 6 bolt necks are slightly longer after the last fret as well.
 
This is correct.

7.5" radius, 3 bolt
#5 default for L2000, L1500, SB-1
#6 default for ASAT, SB-2, Climax

12" radius, 6 bolt
#7 default for L2000, L1500, SB-1
#8 default for ASAT, SB-2, Climax

This neck radius change coincided with the body shape change that happened in the early 2000s. The 6 bolt necks are slightly longer after the last fret as well.

Ahh...makes sense.
 
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I just got my custom ordered L-2500. I'm just astounded the quality of everything about it, exceeding my expectations in every way. Envy me. ;)
 

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I just got my custom ordered L-2500. I'm just astounded the quality of everything about it, exceeding my expectations in every way. Envy me. ;)
I do envy you. It's been 8 months since I got my custom shop L-2500 and I'm still waiting for them to address my missing neck binding.

Enjoy the L-2500. They are so fantastic.
 
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I do envy you. It's been 8 months since I got my custom shop L-2500 and I'm still waiting for them to address my missing neck binding.

Enjoy the L-2500. They are so fantastic.
Ouch. As soon as I got it I started inspecting every square millimeter of it for flaws or some other defect. I've heard stories of hit and miss QA, so I can understand your ... disappointment. I even saw one on Reverb matching my specs exactly but with a maple fretboard, so I wonder if they made mine once already and realized they f'd up. ? IDK. Anywho, they knocked it out of the park on mine.
 
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So I originally thought the CLF headstocks sucked. Now that I own one, I actually like it better than the 3x2 one with the point. The CLF one seems more proportionate, and there's no danger of chipping that little point! I still love the 4x1 point headstock a bit better than the CLF one, though. I dig the CLF control plate look better, even if it'll be more of a pain when I need to work inside the cavity to clean pots and such. I actually don't mind the gloss neck, too...doesn't feel sticky to me. The neck is easy to get around on, much more than my previous Yamaha BBP35 (which was still a fantastic bass).

One question, though--if I have passive mode when the third switch is to the right, how come the treble and bass controls still work? I hear the volume decrease, so it must be in passive. The treble knob seems to become a tone knob, but the bass still sounds like bass....
 
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One question, though--if I have passive mode when the third switch is to the right, how come the treble and bass controls still work? I hear the volume decrease, so it must be in passive. The treble knob seems to become a tone knob, but the bass still sounds like bass....
As I understand it, the preamp works more like a clean signal boost to the passive tone. The bass and treble are cut only.
 
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In active or passive, they totally sound like boost, and not cut. They sound like they operate like any other eq/tone knobs, by getting more when you turn the knobs clockwise.
I can confirm they are passive , and cut only . If you want an eye opener , connect an MFD directly to a jack.

The preamp is a simple line driver with a native treble boost. The treble "boost" is actually removing the attenuation circuit used to flatten the EQ in the line driver boost.

When the PTB tone controls are full up it is close to full output of these monster pickups . Rolling counter clockwise is cutting frequency .
There is no "EQ boosting " anywhere in the circuit
Check this post for a lot more detail
G&L Club Part 7
 
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