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One never knows what gig will come up next. Also some report different voicing on the 6.0 versus the 9.0. Not sure about class D amps, but I know that with other amps I've owned they sound different depending on how hard you're pushing them. Tube amps often sound great when you're thrashing them. Solid state, not so much...


Hmm, I haven't run into a awful smacking sound so far. The speakers are moving a bit, but not jumping out of their chassis or anything. I'm kicking around another Golight cab now. I don't think I want to do a 4 ohm 4x10. I was kicking around another 8 ohm 2x10.I do not remember my settings when playing my 9.0 with my 2x10 but I'm pretty sure I did not dime it. I know for sure I can not dime the 9.0 with my 4 ohm 4x10 Golight. I thought I was going to blow the 4x10 first time I turned it up good. Made an awful smacking sound.![]()
Cool, thanks. I called Genz Benz and verified this is correct with them as well.Yes.. you can run it without a speaker load...
Someone help me here.
There are two contradicting ideas
1. Loads of headroom
2. back in the days of tubes we used to feel too much power for a softer jazz volume was a bad thing.
Anyone smart enough to explain this?
This is a pretty simplistic explaination that misses one of the real (and most important) points about the differences between tube amps and solid state amps.Tubes are non-linear. imho they have a sweet spot in which they operate, and that is generally when they are driven rather hard. As you drive the tube it will compress, then overdrive, and usually with even numbered harmonics ("good sound"). As you drive a solid state circuit, it won't compress, will overdrive but often with odd numbered harmonics ("bad sound").
So, if you were to reduce the negative feedback on a solid state amp, it will behave more tubelike and if you increased the feedback on a tube amp (stability is the limiting factor here) it will behave more solid state like. This is the basis behind some tube emulation schemes... the gradual reduction of negative feedback as the amp gets close to clipping, or an overall reduction of negative feedback.
Are you wanting an overdriven sound, or a lot of harmonic content, fuzz, etc?I am disappointed with my newly acquired svt cl ( still wondering if something could b wrong w it )
I was sure it was better than the Mark bass stuff and the shuttle 6- but I am seriously thinking about Genz or I don't know what.
In keeping w your words 'tubes sound better thrashed-- ss does NOT '
That explains both of my conflicting concepts that I have struggled with
1. not too powerful a head for the spl needed.
2. Loads of headroom
My personal experience says that every time you change something, you change the resulting sound. So I am hesitant to bypass the shuttle 6, for the Max6.
So though the Shuttle 6 was not like the shining qualities of an svt, at those lower volumes, the Genz 6 was very superior. I was hoping Max6 would increase my chances of adding a little more of tube character to the relatively "cold" shuttle 6 ( relative to tube amps in general ) .
My mind is "blown" by this experience- I played with the settings pretty frantically, and once you are in that mode, something instinctual tells you.. give it up.
The combo of big bottom ported cabinet, AND tubes, was too much at those soft levels= mud. But GB6 was clear in the low end... much much clearer.
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If you want to check out that combo, I have both the 9.0 and
the Berg AE210, as well as a few other boxes. That combo is
most certainly not "hi fi" sounding. Very punchy and warm.
This is a pretty simplistic explaination that misses one of the real (and most important) points about the differences between tube amps and solid state amps.
Both tubes and solid state (transistors) are linear devices. Both amplifiy based on an operating load line transfer curve or function. In fact these load lines are quite similar.
One of the primary differences between the perceived differences is that most tube amps use fairly low negative feedback while most solid state amps use high negative feedback. With low negative feedback, the anomolies on the load lines (mostly at the extremes) are not masked or corrected for, whereas for high feedback amps the correction is quite good. The chief disadvantage of this for guitar and bass amplification is that when you do run out of headroom and clip the amp, the feedback correction signal is suddenly removed and the signal immediately reverts to it's open loop behavour, which is the uncorrected transfer curve.
So, if you were to reduce the negative feedback on a solid state amp, it will behave more tubelike and if you increased the feedback on a tube amp (stability is the limiting factor here) it will behave more solid state like. This is the basis behind some tube emulation schemes... the gradual reduction of negative feedback as the amp gets close to clipping, or an overall reduction of negative feedback.
There's a lot more going on inside an amp than meets the eye. Unfortunately, the marketing guys along with urban legend carry on the myths that it's all in the tubes. In fact, tubes play a part in the OVERALL DESIGN because of their limitations which dictated common design topologies.
Is this some of what's going on with the GB micro heads? I assumed the tube preamp was more the cause for the warmth in the tone, but as you said, sounds like a lot more than that is going on.
Always glad to have an engineer to explain the details but as a player in the end it has to be judged by my hands and my ears. And while you can mathematically design a SS circuit to "emulate" a tube circuit, it just isn't the same in my experience. That isn't to say that either one is better than the other - there are great tube amps and lousy tube amps, and the same with SS. I just know that for instance on guitar I have *never* played a SS amp that has the "bounce" of a good tube amp.
For bass though it is a different game wrt amps as the needs and goals are different. I can gig all night long with a good 15W tube amp. On bass I'd like some tube warmth but I want a bunch of headroom as I need to move air and have articulate notes rather than compressed ones.
My bigger question is around ideal power rating/handling. Seems that some would argue that you don't want to overpower a cabinet, so a 6.0 would be a better match for an 8ohm cab with 400W power handling. I'm usually been of the mind that for bass I want more clean power on tap so that I don't get near the extremes of power output of the amp.
So my little dilemma makes sense to you!
I can't see how I can keep this great head at my soft church gig.
I don't think I can find a sweet spot that will also give me clear enough low end
The Shuttle 6 did, BUT it isn't an svt
Oh well the search continues
Thanks
I'd like to think I have good self control and judgement but my ex-wives might disagree...
That's why we have the output tube emulation limiter designed into all our amps. When matched to the "RMS" rated speaker cabinet, you are relatively safe driving the amp pretty hard into the limiter which prevents mechanical damage to the speaker while increasing the average power and a more tube like feel. There's a lot going on with the signal as it enters the limiting phase.
IME its there all the time.
I have to concur completely.![]()