This is one of the reasons I sometimes put my rack between my cabs, just to get it closer to my ears for the times when I take my IEMs out. It's particularly useful when I have to stand close to my rig.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Genzler Amplification Club
- Thread starter Discount Saint
- Start date
This is one of the reasons I sometimes put my rack between my cabs, just to get it closer to my ears for the times when I take my IEMs out. It's particularly useful when I have to stand close to my rig.
Long story short - either one is fine, but with the caveat that the NL-4 needs to be wired a specific way.
You can use an NL-2 without concern because there is only one way to wire it with just the two poles. You can use an NL-4 (which has four poles inside) with the caveat that it is wired +1/-1.
Most NL-4 are wired +1/-1 by default, but it's possible to come across one wired differently/incorrectly. If wired differently, it can be rewired to +1/-1 and will work fine. The poles inside are marked as +1, +2, -1, -2.
NL-4 was created to allow for bi-amping and other more advanced uses than just your typical head-to-cab(s) setup that most of us use.
NL-2 connectors and jacks are only marginally cheaper than NL-4 , so users/builders often go with NL-4 to allow for the possibility of more advanced use somewhere down the road.
Lastly, NL-4 jacks will accept both NL-2 and NL-4 cables, while NL-2 jacks will only accept...you guessed it...NL-2.
If you really want to future-proof, NL-8 is available....
.
Last edited:
So I now have ordered 6 pairs of cables. All ended up being out of stock! Must be a run on 3’ cables!! So over to Amazon, bought a 4 pack of NL-4 connectors and a 6’ 14g extension cable. 24 hours later, bam... 2 perfectly working speaker cables for $16!
Last edited:
Hi All -
Apologies if this has been brought up previously…
Have had the Magellan 350 & 112T for about 2 years now and love them.
Feel I’m missing some opportunity with my mids that I could be fixed by added a single array 10-2 to sit on top of the 112T
So - my question is has anyone paired the 112T with the 10-2?
If so - thoughts?
Thanks Everyone -
Apologies if this has been brought up previously…
Have had the Magellan 350 & 112T for about 2 years now and love them.
Feel I’m missing some opportunity with my mids that I could be fixed by added a single array 10-2 to sit on top of the 112T
So - my question is has anyone paired the 112T with the 10-2?
If so - thoughts?
Thanks Everyone -
The BA10-2 will certainly add some mids to your sound as well as more horizontal dispersion. A couple of folks here have tried the BA10-2 with the MG12T-V, which I imagine isn't too different than the regular 112T. The BA and MG series weren't really designed to go together, but @Jeff Genzler said the combination would work best with the tweeter turned off on the MG cab.
I will soon have a pair of BA10-2s and I already have an MG12T-V. I have a couple of outdoor gigs later this month and I can give the BA/MG combo a try. Maybe someone who has gig experience with the combination will jump in.
Bob
I have the BA10-2 and the MG112T. I also have a BA12-3 and an MG12T-V. My experience is that the MG cabinets are mid forward sounding compared to the BA cabinets, the opposite of what you are asking about. I have tried the BA10 on top of the 112T, which sounds good and aids dispersion like Bob said, but when combining cabinets, I’ve found that those in the same series tend to combine better. I especially like the sound of the BA10 on top of the BA12.
I have also found that the MG112T likes to be pushed a little harder before the sound opens up. While I have an MG350 head, I generally run my MG cabinets with a Mesa D800 or an Aguilar TH500, with a little bit of bass bumped up. I also don’t use the tweeters much, usually at no more than 25% or sometimes completely off.
With the 112T, to get a more balanced sound, you might want to try cutting the mids some instead of boosting them, and/or bump the bass. If, however, you are using Contour curve A (blue light) at a fairly high level, then that could cause your mids to disappear. I will say that I usually play active basses that already have a present sounding midrange, so your experience may vary depending on the the bass and music you are playing.
While I have no experience with them, my understanding is that the Nu Classic cabinets will not have the same pronounced midrange that the MG cabinets have.
Thanks for that.
Have you tried the MG122T and 112TV together? I assume it will provide a glimpse into how two T-Vs would sound as I haven’t seen anything posted about doubling those up.
I have 2 BA10-2s and 1 112T-V, and any combination of the 3 sound good. But you’re right in that 2 of the same type probably sound best.
Just trying to decide if I ‘need’ another MG112T-V or a BA12-3.
Looking for the best 2 cab solution since I never get PA support.
Thanks
Exactly what I was thinking. 2 112T-Vs should cover everything.
The BAs are good, but I think 2x12s would cover more situations. Especially the larger outdoor gigs.
I have admittedly gone nuts and started with Magellan 800 head that I've had for years but picked up a 12T-V late last year and quickly followed that up with a second one to run a mini-stack and it sounded great when pushed by the 800 head in rehearsal. I also sourced a Magellan 350 head (backup. I said I've gone nuts!) which I attached to one of the 12T-Vs for a quick combo carry-in. It didn't seem to achieve the same sonic bliss when they were both paired with the 800 (also at rehearsal) and while I had both heads set similar, something was missing and the only thing I can think of was the watts that pushed the cabs a bit more than the 350 did.
I had planned to use these for smaller stages but now have it set up in my home for practice and plan to use it for rehearsal as it still sounds great and is incredibly easy transport with the attached 350 head. I've got a set of BA cabs for the stage (and am gonna give a NC cab a go to compare and contrast...again...nuts.).
I have admittedly gone nuts and started with Magellan 800 head that I've had for years but picked up a 12T-V late last year and quickly followed that up with a second one to run a mini-stack and it sounded great when pushed by the 800 head in rehearsal. I also sourced a Magellan 350 head (backup. I said I've gone nuts!) which I attached to one of the 12T-Vs for a quick combo carry-in. It didn't seem to achieve the same sonic bliss when they were both paired with the 800 (also at rehearsal) and while I had both heads set similar, something was missing and the only thing I can think of was the watts that pushed the cabs a bit more than the 350 did.
View attachment 4297549
I had planned to use these for smaller stages but now have it set up in my home for practice and plan to use it for rehearsal as it still sounds great and is incredibly easy transport with the attached 350 head. I've got a set of BA cabs for the stage (and am gonna give a NC cab a go to compare and contrast...again...nuts.).
You earned a “like” from me. But that seems too small. Big props, ups, claps, trophy seems more like it. Yes, you can never go too “nuts” in G-world!
PS - assuming you’ve got room for 4 on the floor??
Thank you for your replies.
After reading through I’m wondering now if perhaps instead of trying to add on with a BA10 I swap the the 112T towards a BA12.
Power hasn’t been an issue with the single 112T. I’m not necessarily playing big rooms & when that does happen there is PA to support.
After reading through I’m wondering now if perhaps instead of trying to add on with a BA10 I swap the the 112T towards a BA12.
Power hasn’t been an issue with the single 112T. I’m not necessarily playing big rooms & when that does happen there is PA to support.
The BA12 supposedly plays nice with the BA10. Those who have tried them together really liked them.
I am thoroughly pleased with this BA10/12 combo, small when stacked, tone is full, makes me happy.
The BA10/12 is a great combination. Especially now I have added an iso platform. Our rehearsal room echoes a bit and muddies the lower register from the 12. There is great bass extension from the 12 which can overpower the 10 a little, the platform helped clear up the 12 so the 10 could cut through. Rehearsing Dance Monkey tonight there was a fab growl but no distortion and great definition during the octave bit, I had a big smile on my face. Mr Genzler I could not be happier with my rig and cannot imagine changing it ever. Cheers and thanks so much for some wicked gear.
Here’s how I think about it. Essentially, I think there are two main ways for conceptually combining cabinets, with a third variation: 1) more of the same, 2) complementary, 3) combined more of the same with complementary.
1) More of the same: this when you have a single cabinet whose sound you like, but you just want more of it. Adding multiples gives you more of that sound, enhanced by whatever coupling effect they may have together. For example, if you like the sound of the MG112T, you might just stack another MG112T on top of it.
2) Complementary: this is when the sounds of different cabinets yield yet another sound when combined. In the Genzler world, an example of this would be the great love expressed for the BA15 combined with the BA210.
3) Combined more of the same with complementary: this is when you have multiple cabinets that are similar but not exactly the same. An example would be combining the BA12 Straight and the BA12 Slant.
Personally, I tend to gravitate towards a full range sound that allows my basses to speak from top to bottom. I play 4,5, and 6 string electric basses, fretless, and upright bass. Overall, for what I do, my favorite combination is the BA10 sitting on top of the BA12, which I would consider the complementary approach, as these two cabinets are quite different, despite both being in the BA series.
The BA12 has an exceptional low end for a relatively small cabinet, yet the array speakers provide clarity up top. The main driver is a 12” Faital, and the crossover point is 800Hz.
The BA10 can produce a decent amount of low end, but its strength is really the mids and highs. The main driver is a 10” Eminence, and the crossover point is 1.6KHz.
To my ears, the combination of theses two cabinets, when the BA12 is on the floor, the BA10 on top, and the arrays aligned down the middle, yields a complete sonic spectrum with wide dispersion. I can use any of my basses with it and get a sound I’m happy with. It also excels on outdoor stages, even if there is no PA support.
Regarding combining the MG112T with the MG112T-V, I would consider that in category 3 from above, more of the same with complementary qualities. To my ears, the MG112T has a stronger bass response than the MG112T-V, but they both have a relatively forward sounding midrange, especially when compared to the BA cabinets. When combining the 112T and the 112T-V, I usually turn off the tweeter on the 112T, and, if I’m using a tweeter at all, just use the tweeter on the 112T-V at usually no more than 25%. I tend to use this combination with either an Aguilar TH500 or a Mesa D800, as this combination of speakers likes to see a little more power, and the bottom end opens up when the amp’s bass control is tuned around 40Hz. (The MG cabinets also respond well the the Mesa’s Deep switch without getting out of hand in the low end.) This combination has good punch for a more traditional rock tone, but it can be versatile for other kinds of music as well with the right EQ tweakings.
A big difference in the BA12 cab and the MG12 cabs is that the crossover point is 4.7kHz in the MGs.
Of course, having different cabinets gives you options for using individual cabinets and combinations. Alone, I tend to use the BA10 for upright bass and/or on small stages where I know there is FOH support. I use the 112T-V in a combo format with the MG350 head on small to medium size stages, especially if the stage or room can get boomy. It also works well in churches that have a lot of natural reverb. If it’s a larger room, outdoors, or where I want the finer nuances of playing to be clearly audible, I’ll go with the BA10/BA12 stack.
I’ll also add that I generally do not lift my cabinet(s) off the floor, but I understand that other people do and for good reason. I hope at least some of this is helpful.
Last edited:
I agree with this with one addition - not only do you get more volume through coupling but also more low end extension - so your #1 also changes tonal response a little.
Yeah I just turn the dial - fourth from the right
