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How Is Fender USA Quality Control Soooo Horrible?

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THIS is the most TELLING post in this thread.

You are actually complaining at the level of detail in my original post.

You seem a bit miffed that I included detailed up-close shots at different angles to highlight the defects for those who can't (or refuse to) see them (or care about them).

And, you liked the person's post who couldn't see anything amiss stating, "It looks ok to me."

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Attention to detail is a great thing.

I'm gonna like the quoted post, you seem like you need a hug. Maybe a comfy chair. But all I can do is drop a like. Sorry, friend.
 
I don’t trust Fender enough to buy one online. However, if I were buying a sub $2,000 precision or jazz bass right now, I’d go with Modern Vintage. They’re owned by Elrick Guitars, made in South Korea, have roasted maple necks, frets are PLEK’d, and final setup/inspection is done by Rob Elrick himself. You can find discount codes that put them in the $1,600-$1,700 range.
The only two downsides are that they don’t have a Fender logo on the headstock and resale value likely won’t be as high.

If price isn’t a factor, Mike Lull basses are the cream of the crop.
 
The plate is wider than the guard so either way it’s not gonna line up. If it bothered someone so much they could take a file and take down the side of the plate that doesn’t line up.
only way to get it perfect…and probably only get that attention to detail on handbuilt stuff, wonder if custom shop would do that..
 
Attention to detail is a great thing.

The problem is of the type "Once seen, it cannot be unseen".
Surely, it wouldn't affect the sound and playability of the instrument, BUT it obviously affects the bond between the player and his/hers instrument, and this is very, very important. A stupid little misalignment like this can make it impossible to bind with the bass, to think about it as a really great bass. If you're not convinced you're playing a good instrument (for whatever reason, even be it a cosmetic one), you won't play it to the maximum of your ability. That's the real problem here.
 
Simple answer is tolerance stacking.

Longer answer is still tolerance stacking, but with more words. Every single screw hole has a dimension from one or more surfaces on the body of the bass. So does the neck pocket, and the routing for the pickups, control cavity, etc.

All of these have an amount +/- they can deviate from that dimension. The tighter that tolerance, the more time and cost you incur holding that tolerance. A CNC machine is very good at holding tolerances, but it is not, nor can it ever be, perfect.

So as a designer* we have to decide what areas need to be held closest, and which ones can vary. In the case of a Jazz bass, I'd try to nail the neck pocket, and the pickups and bridge will all be based on that pocket, because those are more location critical based on distance from the frets, alignment with the neck, and so on. The control cavity can more or less be wherever, so who cares.

The pickguard is kind of the same. By itself it's really of no importance, except that here, you have a choice to make. It's relieved to go around the pickup, and to fit around the control plate. So which do you favor? Well, since the pickup is an important piece, you probably want the pickup opening to be favored, which means that the control plate isn't.

So, you have a tolerance for the neck pocket, which impacts the pickup position which itself has a tolerance, which impacts both location and angle of the pickguard, and it's interface with the control plate, which of course has it's own location tolerance.

And this doesn't even get into the fact that both pickguard and control plate have their own overall dimensional tolerances from their separate manufacturing processes that will impact all of the above. For example, even if all the above mentioned holes and routings in the bass body are 100% accurate with no deviation, if the opening in the pickguard is off and at a slight angle, then it's interface with the control plate will be off.

Some of this can be helped with order of operations, like maybe not drill the screw holes for the pickguard until the pickup placement is set (using a template over the pickup, perhaps) or by doing some final fit/finish work by hand, like trimming a bit off the pickguard so it doesn't look out of place, or reshaping the end of the control plate, etc. But that takes a lot of extra time and ends up with bespoke parts that can't always be easily replaced later, as any replacement would need to be fitted as well.

TL : DR- Tolerances impact tolerances, machines aren't perfect, and getting as close as one can will cost more in time, money, or both.

*- I'm a mechanical designer who has done work with stamped, bent, machined, etc bits of metal and plastic. There is almost always an option to hold tighter tolerances, but cost is a big factor. If nothing else, the machine runs slower to keep those tolerances. Some machines are better than others of course, but those usually also cost more. Always about the $$.
This is a terrific post, thank you.
 
Squier (*by Fender) can figure it out for 1/4 of the price new using a lot of the same components and supplies.
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Of course, Squier has its own QC issues.

Had a friend who bought a Fender Jazz Ultra, and then was talking about how he needed to shim the neck because the action is a little high but the saddles were bottomed out, and that shimming is a perfectly normal acceptable thing to do for a bass. And like, yeah, maybe shimming is a perfectly reasonable repair, but on a brand new instrument, right out the factory, for the price of a Fender Ultra?

But also Fender can get away with it, because as long as they put that Fender sticker on the headstock, people will buy them and refuse to buy anything else because "Fender is the best" regardless of the actual quality of the instruments. {shrugs}
Absoluely true.

here's how a Sandberg fits, for similar money:

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