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is there a 4 ohm cab that's rated 500 watts?

#44
My Genz-Benz GB410T-XB is 500W, 4 ohm. It's old and it's heavy, but it's a tank and it kicks ass and they can be had on the CHEAP on the used market.

Best of luck!

G2dMfVa.jpg
 
#49
I had two of these first generation Carvin BRX 10.2 neo cabs. They're built like tanks, and are fairly light for what they can do. I sold one, and am going to buy it back from the guy I sold it to, I regretted selling it. They are 4 ohm cabs, and will handle 600 watts. They had three generations of drivers in them. The first were Deltalites, then some import neos that sound good, but I blew up two of them. Now they use standard, non-neo 10's.
These go very low, project well, and can easily be a stand alone cab with a 5 string bass. You can find them fairly cheap. I got both of mine here on TB. For anyone looking for one- seek out one with the neo's, pick it up, to see if it is the neos- and play through it before you buy.
I love them. One of the best commercially built cabinets I've ever owned. And I've owned so much stuff, it's incredible.
 

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#52
Old Garage-Bander said:
Yeah! How do they do that? I get eight speakers adding up to 4 Ohms, but six? What's the magic? Always been curious about that.
Click to expand...

Mushroo said:
It's called "nominal impedance." Nominal impedance - Wikipedia

Cabs aren't exactly 4 ohms, or exactly 8 ohms, at all frequencies.

When a manufacturer markets a cabinet as "4 ohms" or "8 ohms" basically it is for amp-safety purposes. An "8 ohm cabinet" isn't exactly 8 ohms at all frequencies, but it is generally safe to use with an amp head that can push 8 ohms.

Another example is the Barefaced Six10 and Eight10. They are both marketed as "4 ohms" but since they use the exact same drivers, but have different numbers of them, it's impossible that they could both be exactly 4 ohms. But they should both be safe to use with an amp head that can handle a 4 ohm load.

That's my layman's understanding, anyway. There are probably some additional subtleties that are over my head. :)
Click to expand...

Indeed. I believe in that particular example Alex has saidt that the 10" BF driver was designed to make a 4R 6x10", so it's nominally a 6R driver. Normally I'd guess that each 'pair' of speakers is wired in series to give 12R, and then the 3 pairs are in parallel to give 12/3=4R total. Nominally. However I'm wondering if the 0.5 alignment means that it actually has to be each 'column' of speakers in parallel and then the two columns in series.

This would make the 8x10" more like 3R if it were true. This is also why the 2x10" is switchable between 12R (drivers in series) and 4R (really 3R, drivers in parallel). As for Fender, they'll bbe using off the shelf parts, so I'd guess that the 8x10" is actually around 4R and therefore the 6x10" will be more like 5.3R.

Close enough for Jazz.
 
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#54
Mushroo said:
It's called "nominal impedance." Nominal impedance - Wikipedia

Cabs aren't exactly 4 ohms, or exactly 8 ohms, at all frequencies.

When a manufacturer markets a cabinet as "4 ohms" or "8 ohms" basically it is for amp-safety purposes. An "8 ohm cabinet" isn't exactly 8 ohms at all frequencies, but it is generally safe to use with an amp head that can push 8 ohms.

Another example is the Barefaced Six10 and Eight10. They are both marketed as "4 ohms" but since they use the exact same drivers, but have different numbers of them, it's impossible that they could both be exactly 4 ohms. But they should both be safe to use with an amp head that can handle a 4 ohm load.

That's my layman's understanding, anyway. There are probably some additional subtleties that are over my head. :)
Click to expand...
I AM talking about nominal impedance rating, not dynamic.

If you have a cab with one 8 Ohm speaker that 8 Ohms IS the nominal impedance.
If you have two of those speakers in a cab the nominal will either be 4 or 16.
If you have three of them the nominal must be 24 or 2.67. (Assuming they are wired to all get the same amount of power.)
Double that to six speakers and you have more series parallel options but you never can get to 4 ohms nominal, not with speakers of standard nominal ratings.

You might come up with 3.2 nominal or 5.6 nominal as a couple of examples, but 4 Ohms nominal where all speakers are receiving equal amounts of power won't happen unless the speakers are all of a non-standard NOMINAL rating.

The nominal rating is what you should be using when deciding how to pair up cabs with amps.

Are the manufacturers just fudging this number to sound like something most folks understand?
Just like they round up power ratings? Who wants a cab rated for 392 watts when one "rated" for 400 will sell much better?
How many people who don't understand nominal vs dynamic impedance would shy away from a cab rated as 3.2 or 5.6?
How many more TB questions from noobs would there be when we deviate from the standard of 4 and 8 Ohms.

Given the number of people who don't understand impedance or power ratings, it's no wonder the cab manufacturers would rather just jiggle the numbers a bit rather than cause even more confusion than there already is. And if that's what's going on then that's all I need to know.

As an electronics tech, it is important for me to know as precisely as possible what is really happening with my gear.
Fudged numbers are the bane of our existence. If we know the numbers are a bit off, we can deal with that as long as we know how far off and in what direction. But a 4 Ohm cab with 6 speakers, and nothing else going on to explain it. :rollno:
 

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