- Dec 10, 2006
- 1,338
- 2,180
- Disclosures
- Owner and creator of Jule Amps: Monique and Simone and Bass Amps
My tube guy in Orlando, who's an insane tube nut who knows everything there is to know about tubes nobody's ever heard of, says that rec tubes are the hardiest and rarely fail. That said, I had one fail on me in my Super Reverb a few years agoBut that's the only one I've ever had fail.
It has been almost two years now since I ran through several bad bunches of Rectifier Tubes from JJ. The failure was always the same - the filaments burned out.
The nastiest part of the above failure was that they got through the 24 hour burn-in and failed for my customers within a week of playing. I shipped replacements around the world. I extended the burn-in time to 48 hours and found 30% to 40% failing. Not good. I did report this to my JJ distributor, but I have never heard that they have changed anything.
I moved to the EH EZ81. Out of hundreds I think only one has quit in the shop, and I may have cracked it myself. None, to my knowledge, of the EH EZ81 rectifiers have failed for my customers.
Had I my druthers, I would use EZ 80 instead of EZ 81 rectifiers in Monique. Alas, nobody makes them. All still available are NOS. There is a playing advantage to the EZ 80 even though it is subtle. It is not capable of putting out the current the EZ81 does, so the end result is a bit more flexible compliance to touch and transitions.
If you are capable of safely doing so, feel free to try other EZ 80 or EZ 81 rectifiers, including NOS. The lower current EZ 80 provides plenty of current for Monique. It should be a fun investigation, and it will in no way cause trouble for Monique.
While I am on the subject of tubes, I've seen some loose clamps inside the ceramic octal sockets used for the 6SL7 tubes in Monique. The tube can quit entirely or just make obnoxious noises when the socket is not holding the tube as it must.
The fix to the above is very easy. WITH NO POWER CORD ATTACHED. Remove both 6SL7 tubes by spreading the "bear trap" clamps. Stick a long pin down each of the eight holes in the socket between the metal clamp and the ceramic wall. This closes down (re-tensions) the clamp and all is good forever on. Don't close them up too much or you will have trouble getting the tube back in.
When the tubes are re-installed, make sure the "bear trap" clamps are touching the metal base or the metal tape wrapped around the base (in the case of Tung Sols). This completes a connection that shields the tubes from noise sources.

