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Lakland Owners Group #57

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natw42 said:
Usually with tone wood debates sample size is often too small to make any accurate conclusions. I think in markus's case he has enough basses to choose from to negate that issue ;)

in the mix it typically doesn't matter. I find it affects my playing though... Basses with more treble and midrange response can be played w a lighter touch in my experience and get good articulation and note definition.

Markus, when you say snap, are you referring to lower treble? Like the leading edge of the note (for lack of a better term)?

I believe I've had and still have a broad varied collection as well. :-) Rosewood, ebony, different varieties (hardnesses) of maple, Pau Ferro, purple heart.... that's all I can think of at this time.

But, sounds like we are all basically agreeing at this time anyways. Strings, pickups, and body woods make a much bigger difference than fretboard woods. And, YES in a mix.... who can tell. And EQ surely can EQualize ;-D things. But, I too notice the affects on my playing that different fretboards have. I have trouble hearing the higher register cut thru when playing rosewood fretboards, definition isn't as sharp. I have always assumed that this is the "warm" sound of rosewood that people speak of. Anyways, maple will always be my favorite, everything else will need some extra knob tweaking, but that's cool.
 
A question for the more "soldering inclined":

I just bought a Skyline Bob Glaub in lake placid blue with a jazz profile neck (Johnny Alien was the previous owner). It had been routed and wired for a Dark Star, but removed at some point. The wiring job is pretty shat. This thing has a horrible hum that won't go away when you touch the bridge, strings, etc. I removed the pick guard and found a switch that seems to cut some treble. I plugged the bass in with the pickguard off and the hum goes away. As soon as I remounted the pickguard the hum came back. The cavity has been partially shielded (which means it's not shielded, duh).

Basically, I want to rewire the bass as original and shield the entire bass in the process. Where can I get a wiring schematic for Bob Glaubs?

Also, I wouldn't mind installing another Dark Star. Obviously, Hammond is not building them anymore. Does anyone have one they want to sell to this nice guy?
 
MarkusBass said:
Yeah...Glad you dudes are getting that from this bass....that was exactly my intention.

Women can always rock heels in my book:D

This chick can play any bass in my collection, anytime!



image-1299775798.jpg
 
Lichtaffen said:
A question for the more "soldering inclined":

I just bought a Skyline Bob Glaub in lake placid blue with a jazz profile neck (Johnny Alien was the previous owner). It had been routed and wired for a Dark Star, but removed at some point. The wiring job is pretty shat. This thing has a horrible hum that won't go away when you touch the bridge, strings, etc. I removed the pick guard and found a switch that seems to cut some treble. I plugged the bass in with the pickguard off and the hum goes away. As soon as I remounted the pickguard the hum came back. The cavity has been partially shielded (which means it's not shielded, duh).
Sounds odd! I'd call Carl Pedigo the Bass Doctor and see what he thinks.
 
MarkusBass said:
Exactly.

But for tone I thing it goes in this order:


[*]Electronics
[*]Pickup placement
[*]Right hand placement
[*]Strings
[*]Body wood
[*]Fretboard wood

Body wood over fretboard wood? Interesting. I would think the other way around from what I've heard. I don't have enough experience with different basses to say for myself though.
 
Exactly.

But for tone I thing it goes in this order:

  • Electronics
  • Pickup placement
  • Right hand placement
  • Strings
  • Body wood
  • Fretboard wood

If I know Markus (after arguing with him) this is his sorta rating system of what's most important tonewise... what affects tone MOST in decending order. I have to agree, although I would've left the right hand placement out because it's not a construction aspect. But, as I've argued, when all variables are the same, such as a 55-02 w/ maple vs the same bass w/ rw, maple will have more of the sound I crave straight outta the box w/ no need for tweaking. That's a preference though that relates strongly to my playing style and tastes.
 
Yeah...body then fretboard. The strings never touch the fretboard. Body vibrates and in turn effects the pickups. This is my opinion anyway.

OMG, must resist arguing all over again :D

Frets touch strings, frets are sunk into the fretboard which is part of the neck which in some basses is one piece w/ the body or at least tightly screwed to the body. Strings connect w/ saddles mounted to the body.... it's all parts of the whole. The "whole" vibrates and affects the other parts of the whole. For that matter, a fat guy will have a slightly different tone from the same bass as a skinny guy. And, we can't even begin to dive into hands and how they're used and different from one player to the next.

Ok, I'm done :D.

HEY!!! I'm getting 2 new to me US Laklands in a matter of days!!!
 
I don't wanna kindle another wood debate, so I'll just briefly post my .02.

2 Pieces of the same wood type can show more variability (in terms of density and resonance) than 2 pieces of different wood species. I believe that if I handed anyone a series of the same 10 basses differing only in fretboard or body wood type (yeah, I know there are always other little differences as well) and asked them, blindfolded, to tell me which fretboard or body wood belonged to which bass, noone would have a clue what he was playing. Just my free .02.
 
First I taught Doude how to multiquote on his phone and now I've sparked a wood debate. Keep this up and I might get the boot from the LOG... :hiding:

:D

Stirring the pot is fine as long as it's done respectfully and with a smile, IMHO:p


Where did you 'splain the multiquote thang.....I needs to get on board.....
 
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