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Lakland Owners Group #69

I should join this group. I have a 1998 US 4-94 and a 4-76 custom - not sure on how old it is.
 

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Interesting. Was this a request from you?
I’m getting a tech to make some alterations to my 55-94 including adding a passive tone control, but rather than adding an extra control I’m having a stacked bass and treble. I’m also getting a push pull mid switch to switch between my two favourite mid settings. Imo having the mid switch accessible via the dipswitch in the back is kinda pointless.
Very much looking forward to getting my bass working the way I like. How are you finding the passive tone control?
I requested the PTC and I am digging it. Also requested the 34” scale and black hardware. To awhile to find the right top, but I knew it when I saw that one. The guys knocked it out of the park. I couldn’t do the stacked volume/tone because it is P/P for active/passive. So the additional knob was almost necessary. Not saying there could have been another option that worked, but we did explore several.
 
So I ordered a Lakland face mask and look what they threw in...
25th anniversary, 34” scale, roasted ash body, roasted flame maple neck with ebony board, Bart pickups and preamp and flame maple top. Anybody notice anything else?
Wow- that’s gorgeous! Excellent choices all around!
 
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Jedi Bass,
Thanks for the reply. I agree that the “word” from Lakland can be a little skewed. I’ve gotten bad information from them before about the history of a bass. I’m a carpenter as well as musician, so I’m familiar with wood grain. I started to suspect rift sawn, which makes sense from your “diagram”. The end grain being what it is, the actual body of the neck doesn’t look flat sawn at all, all the grain runs in one direction, but it doesn’t look as tight as quarter sawn does. (I attached another diagram ;))

Jimmy

Jimmy & Jedi

Thank you both for the descriptions and images. I've had lots of basses/guitars and never knew riftsawn was a thing usually calling it "almost quartersawn". There has to be something tonally going on with the width and thickness changing at the same rate because those necks were killer. Most easily bowing neck I had was a G&L quartersawn that looked like a crescent moon when I changed to higher tension strings.

On another note as a martial arts master/school owner myself and my students have broken some boards over the past 45 years. Yes they're pine and I've found riffsawn by far breaks the easiest followed by quartersawn then flatsawn. When breaking two boards stacked on top of one another and especially more than two you'd better hope there's no flatsawn in the mix. Or not make the mistake I made one time and stacked three boards with the middle one turned cross-grain. That F'n hurt more than breaking rocks.
 
Jimmy & Jedi

Thank you both for the descriptions and images. I've had lots of basses/guitars and never knew riftsawn was a thing usually calling it "almost quartersawn". There has to be something tonally going on with the width and thickness changing at the same rate because those necks were killer. Most easily bowing neck I had was a G&L quartersawn that looked like a crescent moon when I changed to higher tension strings.

On another note as a martial arts master/school owner myself and my students have broken some boards over the past 45 years. Yes they're pine and I've found riffsawn by far breaks the easiest followed by quartersawn then flatsawn. When breaking two boards stacked on top of one another and especially more than two you'd better hope there's no flatsawn in the mix. Or not make the mistake I made one time and stacked three boards with the middle one turned cross-grain. That F'n hurt more than breaking rocks.
You’re not helping me sell my bass at all...
:)
 
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Jimmy & Jedi

Thank you both for the descriptions and images. I've had lots of basses/guitars and never knew riftsawn was a thing usually calling it "almost quartersawn". There has to be something tonally going on with the width and thickness changing at the same rate because those necks were killer. Most easily bowing neck I had was a G&L quartersawn that looked like a crescent moon when I changed to higher tension strings.

On another note as a martial arts master/school owner myself and my students have broken some boards over the past 45 years. Yes they're pine and I've found riffsawn by far breaks the easiest followed by quartersawn then flatsawn. When breaking two boards stacked on top of one another and especially more than two you'd better hope there's no flatsawn in the mix. Or not make the mistake I made one time and stacked three boards with the middle one turned cross-grain. That F'n hurt more than breaking rocks.
I imagine chopping wood in half with your hand and taking into account wood grain when making instrument necks is a slightly different mindset... flat sawn is the most available because it yields the most dimensional lumber per log...tone wise is subjective in my opinion, from playing lots of instruments
 
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I’ve broken some boards. Didn’t have my own school, but taught some TKD. The repeated hand injuries and the desire to play bass ‘til I die were big factors in my giving up MMA. The injuries were weird sparring accidents that I won’t go into unnecessary detail about. I have pain all the time from them.

Anyways... I can totally see why quartersawn boards would split easier along the grain. But, necks aren’t subject to impacts down the middle or splitting forces (punk rock stage antics don’t count LOL). It also makes sense why quartersawn necks should be stiffer than flatsawn.

All in all, after seeing rift and quartersawn compared, I can see why Jimmy H’s bass neck isn’t considered flatsawn by Lakland. The long straight grain down the length will look just like quartersawn. Only the end grain looks flat-ish. For some, like me, it’s totally a NON-issue. Jimmy and I have messaged and I would buy or trade for his bass in a second if I could.
 
I requested the PTC and I am digging it. Also requested the 34” scale and black hardware. To awhile to find the right top, but I knew it when I saw that one. The guys knocked it out of the park. I couldn’t do the stacked volume/tone because it is P/P for active/passive. So the additional knob was almost necessary. Not saying there could have been another option that worked, but we did explore several.

I’ve got a passive tone on my 55-94 and it’s great and very useful.
(In my case East Uni pre- vol, blend, passive tone w pp active passive, stacked bass and treble with pp pick attack boost, stacked mid and freq)

it’s also very much flatsawn. Not that it matters