• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

LDS Sealed 15/8

#102
Kringle - Did you mention Bill F saying that the Jensen mod 70 would be a good match with the 3015lf?

I have a pair of the Acme flatwounds which are tuned to 31hz I believe. They stay tight as far as I go down (drop d). I wonder if a 3015LF tuned that low with a mod 70 for the mids and highs would give me a similar yet much louder output.

I also found this, http://www.usspeaker.com/The Copperhead-1.htm It looks like it would make a great mid and have a nice sensitivity match.
 
#103
rpsands said:
Be specific in that it wins in transfer function, but the 3db of sensitivity it gives up more than makes up for the earlier low end rolloff.

And the 3015LF can take slightly more power as well :)
Click to expand...

strange, i use winisd alpha and it says 200W more in average for 4015 LF and 2-3 db more max spl while 3015lf wins in sensitivity over 100 hz, averaging 2db more than 4015.
 
#104
I suspect what's happening is you're thinking in terms of the 450w PE of the 3015LF as being a hard limiting factor, when it isn't as hard a limit as one would expect in reality. Bass guitar and huge crest factors typically means your excursion limit is much more of a factor in real power handling limits. So the superior Xmax and XLim of the 3015LF will give you a small edge in "real world power handling." That is, it'll fart slightly later.

If you want to see a more realistic max SPL graph try hitting both woofers with 500w (they're both chewing into XLim around there, which means you'll probably have some audible distortion).

A good high pass filter can make it more realistic to expect to hit the 4015LF with the full 700w it's rated for--say a steep BW HP at 45hz or so.
 
#105
rpsands said:
I suspect what's happening is you're thinking in terms of the 450w PE of the 3015LF as being a hard limiting factor, when it isn't as hard a limit as one would expect in reality. Bass guitar and huge crest factors typically means your excursion limit is much more of a factor in real power handling limits. So the superior Xmax and XLim of the 3015LF will give you a small edge in "real world power handling." That is, it'll fart slightly later.

If you want to see a more realistic max SPL graph try hitting both woofers with 500w (they're both chewing into XLim around there, which means you'll probably have some audible distortion).

A good high pass filter can make it more realistic to expect to hit the 4015LF with the full 700w it's rated for--say a steep BW HP at 45hz or so.
Click to expand...
I understand what you say but actual max power curve for 3015lf that i got isnt actually curve, its flat from 10-300 hz at 450W, weird :hmm: Yes hp filter would be a great being set at that point but it would be too expensive to make..
 
#107
3rdcurve said:
Kringle - Did you mention Bill F saying that the Jensen mod 70 would be a good match with the 3015lf?
Click to expand...

I can't remember which he suggested but, I own both the mod70 and 50. To me, the 50 sounds alittle nicer and the 70 alittle stiffer. Again, the one with the smaller magnet sounds sweeter. I had actually planned to use the 70 to replace the 50 I was using in an earlier version of modded nv610. If I had an 8ohm mod10-50, I may even use it in my nv610 instead of the mod8-20. I was going to use it in the sealed lds cab but, the 8" took up less room and sounded really good. It's so close, it's hard to call but for a 10" guitar type mid, the mod10-50 is my choice all the way. I may even get an 8ohm one to put in the berg soon.

Actually, I have two spare 32 ohm mod10-50's if anyone wants to trade, I'll trade a 32ohm mod10-50 or an 8ohm mod10-70 even up for an 8ohm mod10-50.
 
#108
3rdcurve, that guitar mid looks really good but you just never know. Some drivers response on paper look similar to the jensen and then when you get it, they usually sound ganky or harsh. I think the big dip around 400hz gives the mods some of their character even though I crosse them at 800hz. Almost like a crossover before the actual crossover. Im probably wrong but, it's a thought. You just really don't know until you get it. And with the 3015lf, it's a great woofer but don't expect to get the kind of growl going on that you would with my lds or the bag end 15's. Its just not there. You can get a great clean low end from it but the character will all have to come from the 10" mid. But, that will be pretty clean since no lows are going to it. So add low to the 10 right? Nope. Then the top end will sound different because the cone is moving differently. If you want growl with a properly crossed cab you need to cross up high on the woofer, around 1.5 to 2k, and then use a guitar type driver for the top end so that it won't sound like a pa speaker. Then you probably won't want a 10" for that, so you would go to an 8 or 6. BUT, then you'll need one that has enough sensitivity to keep up with the woofer. Starting to see the game? It's not easy.:smug:
 
#109
Good eq-ing can always help to trim some rumble down and save the displacement. Anyway, that 4015 lf would work like a charm in the sealed enclosure, crossover and dedicated mid would be the key to add the desired flavour to the tone. As I already said, if I was to build one I would tune it at 35 hz and port it with back firing tubes so they can be closed with plugs if desired, so you have old school thumpy or smooth deep bass at the flick of the.. plug.


Hand Tightening Aluminum Single Test Plugs With By-Pass - Petersen Products Company
 
#111
Rogypop, I like your idea for plugs. I have had bad luck with rear ports as far as consistancy from room to room. Thats with custom cabs as well as a few very well know cabs that are very loved on this site. Rear ports are one instance where theory and I disagree just a 'lil bit.
 
#112
kringle77 said:
Rogypop, I like your idea for plugs. I have had bad luck with rear ports as far as consistancy from room to room. Thats with custom cabs as well as a few very well know cabs that are very loved on this site. Rear ports are one instance where theory and I disagree just a 'lil bit.
Click to expand...

The problem could occure if you can see the speaker through the ports cause the mids may pass through and bounce of the wall and make things messy. The solution is not to use straight pipes but those with ´knee´ and bag end problem solved! :)
 
#117
I had the weekend off so I dragged the nv610 in for comparison to the the new LDS 158. Just as I had hoped, the tones are VERY similar. Same tight punch, mids and top. The 15lfa is not quite as bright as the berg 10" drivers so to compensate for that I just turned the treble up on my eq alittle more and left the mid attenuator in the same place. The only actual difference is the over sense of heft and weight that you can only get from having multiple drivers moving and nobody could expect to get the same feel with a single 15" compared to five 10's. The lds is an inch shallower. I definitely can get my tone at a jam or quiet gig with this lds and not feel like I am missing something by not having the big cab with me. You can see my rough aluminum baffle for the mid on the berg. I have used this same baffle in a few experiments. It doesn't look perfect but, it works well because it is thin and strong. I should trim up the foam mid chamber to look better, but I just don't care.
 

Attachments

  • lds 158 001.jpg
    lds 158 001.jpg
    54.9 KB · Views: 127
  • lds 158 002.jpg
    lds 158 002.jpg
    31.2 KB · Views: 76
#118
Cool, good work on this, I am looking for a smaller cab to emulate the sound of my NV412. Looks like it holds up nicely against an NV5/610 ;)

Kringle can I ask, did Don mention what sort of power rating this cab would take? I am going to get this in a 4ohm version to run with my VBA400 and though I wouldnt crank it, I am a bit worried about frying the woofer and more likely the mid driver
 
#119
He wrote it down on the jack plate, I'll check. How are you going to get a 4 ohm version?

As far as the nv412 comparison. It would probably get you a close result as well although, You may have good luck having Don build you a 2x12 version. One of the eminence 12's has a really nice looking top end and is good in a sealed cab. If you want more top than the nv412 has, the cab he built for me may be better. I would have had a 2x10/1x8 built instead but, I couldn't find any drivers that had the sound and impedance values I needed. Using the 15 was a way for me to keep the cab small and get some decent output.
 
#120
kringle77 said:
He wrote it down on the jack plate, I'll check. How are you going to get a 4 ohm version?

As far as the nv412 comparison. It would probably get you a close result as well although, You may have good luck having Don build you a 2x12 version. One of the eminence 12's has a really nice looking top end and is good in a sealed cab. If you want more top than the nv412 has, the cab he built for me may be better. I would have had a 2x10/1x8 built instead but, I couldn't find any drivers that had the sound and impedance values I needed. Using the 15 was a way for me to keep the cab small and get some decent output.
Click to expand...

Not sure how Don is getting a 4ohm version.. I guess it must be a different driver...unless he has access to special Emenince models..I will have to ask him what he plans to use!! I really like the idea of your build but I want it in 4 ohms to pair with my Marshall. How did manage to pair yours with the SVT...there isnt an 8ohm tap is there? And yeah I think I would prefer the 15/8 or even 12/6 configuration to a 2x10/8. Ill have to give it some thought
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back