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Looking for a fanless, small, cheap class D mono power amp

#61
Passinwind said:
Job one: please give the power supply and nominal/max output level specs for the preamp in question. For a quick and easy compact build you'll probably fare best with a power amp module that has a built in aux power supply, and I'd recommend one with overload protection as well.

Parts Express only sells older ICEpower designs AFAIK. Not necessarily a deal breaker (I have a great sounding convection cooled 500ASP build), but not my favorite solution either. Historically Hypex has given a lot more love to DIYers in terms of tech support, it's always been part of their business model. But you pay for that tech support too. ;)
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I wonder if anyone has used the Lab Gruppen IPD module for a project...Lab.Gruppen IPD / E Series Amplifier Module. It looks like what the TC BH550 uses. $230 'Murican dollars.
 
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#62
Bass Jones said:
I wonder if anyone has used the Lab Gruppen IPD module for a project...Lab.Gruppen IPD / E Series Amplifier Module. It looks like what the TC BH550 uses. $230 'Murican dollars.
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Haven't seen any DIY builds like that, but I also haven't been keeping up as avidly as I used to. I have a lifetime supply of DIY amps that work great for my purposes, and having retired from gigging my only further need might be something tiny in combo format for jamming mostly with acoustic instruments, possibly battery powered. Maybe one of these days.

In Europe there are some workable options on sale here: Profusion Ltd - Audio Semiconductors . A quick look shows many of the same older ICE units Parts Express carry as being freely available, with the newer ones apparently still requiring some pre-qualification, as it is in the US.
 
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#63
Something that probably needs to be considered when using a drop-in Class-D module is what happens when the unit is driven to clipping. Near as I can tell, every "micro" amp from the mainstream amp makers contains circuitry that manages the overload condition in some form or fashion.

This might be less of an issue for hi-fi uses, where it's easy to have a comfortable margin. For instance, any of the IcePower modules would obliterate my speakers long before they ever got close to clipping. ;) Also, the input signal is more manageable in audio reproduction, e.g., the output of a DAC only gets up to a certain level and that's it, and you can keep it below the clipping level of your power amp by just choosing your gains correctly. But management of signal levels on musical instrument gear is left as an exercise for the user.

My only point is that the presence of an IcePower module in a bass amp doesn't mean the same module can be used safely in a DIY application without further consideration.
 
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#65
Giraffe said:
Another good argument in favor of the Magellan 350, Acoustic Image SL, Mesa D-800! Reliable packages that cover the things the DIY'er may not get to.
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I once looked into getting a DIY tube amplifier kit. I thought it would be a good learning experience, and I'd end up with a decent amp. But reading through the comments and questions from users to the company that made the kit made me realize how out of my depth I was regarding amps. I decided right then that I would remain happily ignorant and let far more knowledgeable and experienced people make my amps for me.
 
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#66
fdeck said:
My only point is that the presence of an IcePower module in a bass amp doesn't mean the same module can be used safely in a DIY application without further consideration.
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Yep. Before I did my build with the 500ASP I bought the most uptown and reputable 1000ASP plate amp I could find and studied all the design nuances for quite a few hours. There also is/was an older factory design manual for those modules that you could find online, and a robust builder's community on DIYaudio, both of which mostly served to show me how not to do things! ;)

When I posted my old DIY Class D amp threads I generally put the "don't try this at home" disclaimer right upfront. But I also want to encourage people to really do their homework, don't gloss over the scary math, and don't necessarily expect to save money by default.
 
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#67
Giraffe said:
As to Mr. Agedhorse, I have been reading his posts for years, and I have yet to see him be anything but a perfect gentleman. He is friendly and helpful.

He is also a tremendous asset to this site and to all the serious users of this site. I am very skeptical of the comment about supposedly receiving (negative) PM's from other members about him. That sounds like BS from a guy who clearly is taking himself way too seriously.

I used to come here to TB to post questions about speaker design. Proven authorities like Bill FitzMaurice and Dave Green would type long, detailed responses that helped me immeasurably, they carried me up the mountain! Those guys don't live here anymore because of rude comments from a few rude, immature posters who offered nothing useful to the discourse.

Let's not do that again! This site is worthwhile largely because of the most knowledgeable posters, and not because of the sarcastic voices with little or no expertise.
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tenor (51).gif
 
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#68
When I decided to go with a separate pre amp into powered cabinets, I considered several different power amplifiers. At the time there was the SWR Amplite (discontinued) , Baby Sumo, Demeter 800D, and Monique M700.
I went with a used M700 which I still have as a backup. Once Mike Arnopol started building powered cabinets I bought a MAS 4x5.5, MAS 1/8 v1 followed by a MAS v2. So I abandoned the separate power amp. It's much
less expensive to get a complete amplifier and use the preamp of your choice into the effects loop. Just my take
 
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#69
Yeah, DIY projects are really their own reward.

I hope OP doesn't feel gaslighted as there are many posts on Talkbass in general that are unnecessarily snarky and condescending and I would go so far as to say Talkbass kind of has a rep for that, e.g. that 100+ page "Why I hate Jeff Berlin" megathread (which hopefully has been deleted by now). Not sure I noticed it on this thread but I can't say we are all squeaky clean in that regard either. As with any forum, you have to let that stuff roll off your back.
 
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#70
Bass Jones said:
Yeah, DIY projects are really their own reward.

I hope OP doesn't feel gaslighted as there are many posts on Talkbass in general that are unnecessarily snarky and condescending and I would go so far as to say Talkbass kind of has a rep for that, e.g. that 100+ page "Why I hate Jeff Berlin" megathread (which hopefully has been deleted by now). Not sure I noticed it on this thread but I can't say we are all squeaky clean in that regard either. As with any forum, you have to let that stuff roll off your back.
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I would also encourage the OP or anyone that comes to something like this is, to listen (read) first then comment second.

If I asked a question, I should read all the answers that may answer my question and even the ones I think don't and not perform a knee-jerk reaction if I don't hear what I want or think I don't hear what I want.

That is not a path to learn anything at all.

Of course imho :)
 
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#72
I don't see any reason it wouldn't work. I've used the BASH and Dayton plate amps to build powered subs for hi-fi and home theater, and they work great! I've got the Dayton 500 watt plate in the big home theater, and it absolutely thumps! Shaking the second-story floor, a great home theater experience!

But those are fixed installations, and I don't know if those particular plate amps are built to handle a lot of moving. If the box is going to stay at home, or sit in a rehearsal space, I would feel fine. I don't know about bumping it around during load in/out.
 
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#73
Giraffe said:
I don't see any reason it wouldn't work. I've used the BASH and Dayton plate amps to build powered subs for hi-fi and home theater, and they work great! I've got the Dayton 500 watt plate in the big home theater, and it absolutely thumps! Shaking the second-story floor, a great home theater experience!

But those are fixed installations, and I don't know if those particular plate amps are built to handle a lot of moving. If the box is going to stay at home, or sit in a rehearsal space, I would feel fine. I don't know about bumping it around during load in/out.
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Something to consider, the moving around.

Won't be a lot, maybe some old school skids around the amp for protection.

I'm thinking 500 watts, for a little headroom but no more for the 350-watt rating on the speaker.
Just something to use for backyard parties, maybe to take out once, twice a year to someone else's backyard. Not a tour situation :)

ESiu_SyX0AEDSkZ.jpg
 
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#74
DSP's on power amps have amazing features. Limiters, Crossovers, EQ, presets, ...
The amp part has all the cooling, power supply and connectors figured out.
And good amps with DSP are very affordable.
Yeah sure they are all 2ru size but many are very lightweight. Some with aluminum chassis. Just a few pounds.
If you're building a cab, a 2ru space on top is easy to add in.
 
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#77
DJ Bebop said:
Something to consider, the moving around.
Won't be a lot, maybe some old school skids around the amp for protection.

I'm thinking 500 watts, for a little headroom but no more for the 350-watt rating on the speaker.
Just something to use for backyard parties, maybe to take out once, twice a year to someone else's backyard. Not a tour situation :)

View attachment 4312819
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10 knobs? What is it?
 
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#79
BassNugget said:
Make sure you are using a full range plate amp (some are even bi amped) and not a subwoofer amp. The subwoofer amps have a high frequency cutoff at say 200 hz or so.

I thought of the same project, but it was cheaper to buy a head and cabinet in the end. I do miss out on the fun of the build, but with lumber prices so high...I will wait on a build.
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Btw, I'm not the OP, I want a subplate, my use is for an 18 speaker in a box. I want to make it a sub, not a full-range speaker for bass guitar. We want it for a little backyard sound system. But thanks for the heads up :)
Sound system (Jamaican) - Wikipedia
The history of Sound Systems | Street Life
 
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