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Low Down Sound Club V3
- Thread starter Chef
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thanks man!
i'll be calling soon enough! just want to wait till i have money to buy a cab before contacting him
i'll be calling soon enough! just want to wait till i have money to buy a cab before contacting him
Well, Don called this morning and he's still having issues ith the vendor he uses for the truck bed liner coating. They still can't get the stuff to come out right for some reason. Don thinks it might be the heat and humidity.
More waiting=Bummer.
Don's been up front about the deal all along and there's nothing he can do about it so I'll continue to wait until the spray shop gets the bugs worked out.
More waiting=Bummer.
Don's been up front about the deal all along and there's nothing he can do about it so I'll continue to wait until the spray shop gets the bugs worked out.
While that truck bed lining is pretty awesome... literally indestructible, the in-house roll-on finish that Don has available is very nice also, and will save you the wait time and the upcharge. It surely isn't as rugged as that heavy, rough truck bed stuff, but it looks great, and as long as you use a padded cover, it will stay looking nice.
Just an idea.
+1. I have the house duratex finish on my cab-didn't want the extra few lbs that come with the bedliner. It looks great and is pretty durable. Smack it, however, and it will ding and chip.....that's what sharpies are made for. Besides, it's like a car, after the 1st imperfection occurs it's no biggie.
If he'd had the duratex in house I'd have gone with it, but I do like the bedliner. It's pretty awesomely tough.
The nice thing about the duratex is the ability to touch it up yourself; Leland from Speakerhardware will sell you a quart of duratex for about 20 bucks that'll last you a lifetime of use.
The nice thing about the duratex is the ability to touch it up yourself; Leland from Speakerhardware will sell you a quart of duratex for about 20 bucks that'll last you a lifetime of use.
If it's the same problem that mine had - I'd be willing to bet on heat/humidity.
It's what is generally referred to as "blistering" - and there are three main things that cause it:
1) Heat blistering caused by painting in direct sunlight on a surface that is too warm
2) Moisture - either on the surface to be painted, or before the paint has completely dried
3) Insufficient surface preparation i.e. painting over a contaminant to which the coating cannot adhere
As someone who has a cab that is a combo of the two (my cab has the bedliner, but the finish was so screwed up on my cover that Don re-did the cover with the in-house roll-on) - there is really no comparison as to the toughness of the two coatings.
The spray-on finish is easily orders of magnitude tougher.
Per my post +1 all the way. If you are using a padded cover and handle your own gear, it is a zero issue. If you throw the cab in a band truck without a cover... not so much
Yeah, I've already waited a while on the cabs so I might as well wait on them to get the bed liner figured out. I like not having to worry about the finish on my cabs. That way, I can concentrate on worrying about blowing drivers......................
My bright red tolex 1212/6/1 was something like $850 shipped. I don't recall the exact number or the exact specs off the top of my head.
It is, by far, the loudest AND best sounding cabinet I've ever used.
Per my post +1 all the way. If you are using a padded cover and handle your own gear, it is a zero issue. If you throw the cab in a band truck without a cover... not so much
I handle my own gear... but that means the following has to end up in the back of my vehicle:
1) My amp
2) My cabinet
3) PA Mains
4) PA Amp rack
5) Boxes of cables and mics
6) all the stands except for lights
7) my wife's entire drum kit
8) my basses
Needless to say, anything that can get scraped/chipped - does.
I sent Don the link to Duke's LeJeune's hi-pass in the wiki. He really seemed to enjoy that discovery -- It sounds like he might prefer it to the 3-way crossovers he's been doing, and may do that in the future for 3-way fearful designs.
He's finishing my cab this week hopefully, and I'll be able to switch from bi-amp to passive, with the horn after-all.
I am using the eminence ASD 1001 horn now, probably with the dayton waveguide. I think I'll order the JBL waveguide later (if it's not too much trouble to swap it out myself, lol).
He's finishing my cab this week hopefully, and I'll be able to switch from bi-amp to passive, with the horn after-all.
I am using the eminence ASD 1001 horn now, probably with the dayton waveguide. I think I'll order the JBL waveguide later (if it's not too much trouble to swap it out myself, lol).
So when he gets a botched job is it just a little moonscape like but still super durable? Or is it more likely to chip or peel off. If it is just cosmetic I think I would personally still go with it.
I received my LDS/"fEarful" Monster, and played it yesterday. I used my new Mesa 400+. I thought it sounded boomy, but thought that maybe it's my lack of familiarity with the Mesa.
Measured the cab today to order a cover for it, and I discovered that it is not an accurate fEarful. It is actually a full inch narrower from front to back- 15.75" vs the called-for 16.75. I am rather disappointed, because I was told that this was faithful to the plans. I will give the cab a chance, because the workmanship is top shelf, but perhaps my perception of boominess was not without reason. If I understand it correctly, boominess is a result of not enough cabinet volume, and this cab's internal volume is 7% smaller than spec'd (yes, I did the math).
I hope that I don't sound like I am trying to discredit Don and his work- I believe he is offering the finest cabs you can get. My experience is a little lackluster, at this point. I WOULD NOT HAVE PURCHASED THIS CABINET IF I HAD BEEN CLEAR ON ITS DIFFERENT DIMENSIONS.
The cab has scratches on its side because I didn't secure it properly during transport, and it's not really a fEarful.
Measured the cab today to order a cover for it, and I discovered that it is not an accurate fEarful. It is actually a full inch narrower from front to back- 15.75" vs the called-for 16.75. I am rather disappointed, because I was told that this was faithful to the plans. I will give the cab a chance, because the workmanship is top shelf, but perhaps my perception of boominess was not without reason. If I understand it correctly, boominess is a result of not enough cabinet volume, and this cab's internal volume is 7% smaller than spec'd (yes, I did the math).
I hope that I don't sound like I am trying to discredit Don and his work- I believe he is offering the finest cabs you can get. My experience is a little lackluster, at this point. I WOULD NOT HAVE PURCHASED THIS CABINET IF I HAD BEEN CLEAR ON ITS DIFFERENT DIMENSIONS.
The cab has scratches on its side because I didn't secure it properly during transport, and it's not really a fEarful.
This whole deal has not been a good one for you. Don is VERY good about refunding if a customer is not happy, so you should just get your money back and move on.
One thing to consider IMO and IME. I've played a BUNCH of these 15/6's in a variety of dimensions and configurations now (probably 10), and they all sound 95%+ the same. My guess is, the match-up of the 15/6 is absolutely awful with the Mesa 400 or 400+. These cabs, IMO, like it tight and controlled down low, punchy in the mids, and smooth up top... the exact opposite of the Mesa.
If you do return it, and really like that head, I would not go down the 15/6 path again.... the big, ported low end response of these types of cabs is pretty much death with most big tube amps IMO and IME.
i use a 400+ plus with a 15/6+1 and while not powerful enough to push the cab to full utility I find the tone and voicing to be simply marvelous.
different strokes I guess.
different strokes I guess.
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