Their progressive cap values with the 1st position being off, the booster is to compensate for volume fall off
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Offical B.C. Rich Club!
- Thread starter mournblade
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Interesting. I keep the boost off. I don't find it adds anything I need. However, I find rolling off the boost knob actually adds a slight bit of crispness to the tone, even know the circuit is off.Their progressive cap values with the 1st position being off, the booster is to compensate for volume fall off
I've been thinking about this. How do the progressive cap values affect the tone? It seems pretty popular with these to have the Varitone set where I do, off.Their progressive cap values with the 1st position being off, the booster is to compensate for volume fall off
Just saw my purple Mock shared over on Facebook, here's one I just got back yesterday, 1984 USA Wave that was repainted in rare blue burst by the BCR Custom Shop (yes they're still around and will build you anything your heart desires)
Has anyone replaced the saddles on an original Badass bridge? I'd like to narrow the string spacing on my Bodine and if these will fit the original Badass, this should be a clean way to do it.
www.allparts.com
Badass® Grooved Bass Bridge Saddles
Set of 4 grooved saddles for Badass and Omega Bass® bridges. Includes screws and springs. See BP-2070 for non-grooved version.
www.allparts.com
I can't remember the values but think of a Rickenbacker 4001 with the .47 cap, they basically filters that change the tone, usable? Debatable, keep in mind its 70s technology and was just a way of adding something different into the mix. I've seen so many BCRs that were gutted out in favor of EMGs, sad really, the DiMarzios sound great passively, don't know why folks didn't just unsolder the varitone or the booster if they disliked it so much
Haven't tried it but I've looked at replacing Badass saddles with saddles from the repo Badass , they just don't sit in the channels right , so my guess is going to be a noHas anyone replaced the saddles on an original Badass bridge? I'd like to narrow the string spacing on my Bodine and if these will fit the original Badass, this should be a clean way to do it.
Badass® Grooved Bass Bridge Saddles
Set of 4 grooved saddles for Badass and Omega Bass® bridges. Includes screws and springs. See BP-2070 for non-grooved version.
Thanks. I realized that the saddles I linked to must be for the Badass II. I might get Allparts' Badass I and slot it how I want. I don't mind so much since it wouldn't require modification. Same reason I went with the Schaller M4S lightweight tuners.
Those new badasses are nice, only real difference cosmetically is the script is a little smaller, grabbed a few on eBay over the summer, dude was selling them for like $30 shipped
Great! Glad to hear they're good. Too bad I can't just get the notched saddles. This bridge has probably been on it since 1976.
All of rhose Badass 1's were unnotched, the BCR ppl probably Neal Moser notched them
Sorry, I meant those grooved ones made for the Badass II. But cool if Neal himself notched mine. Assuming I get the Allparts one, Matt Brewster (30th Street Guitars) will notch that.
Can I assume that the Badass bridge on my Bodine from 1976 is chrome and not nickel, especially since it's still pretty shiny? I'm getting the Allparts one and want to make sure I get the right finish.
Gotta enjoy it too, swap the pickups. Might not have the right neck angle for a BA1
Rôckhewer
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- Feb 28, 2015
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Here's a friendly PSA about bridge swapping.
The Badass 2 is a Fender direct replacement.
Fenders are flat, no break. The neck/fingerboard is high above the body where they meet.
To have a fingerboard close to the body, BC RICH construction employs a shim under the fingerboard from about the 16th fret to the end of the board.
& the body falls away from the neck at an angle appropriate for the bridge being used.
For those mathematically inclined... rise over run formula:
So, the basic break angle for all the Fender replacement bridges is just under 1°
(.89°-ish)
The Badass 1 is taller... by a bunch.
It needs about a 1.75° break
Don't quote me on the exact Trigonometry (trimotromony?)...
We have a jig thing Neal made calculate break for different bridge elevations....
But yeah no...
You can not use a BA 1 where a BA 2 (etc.) currently exists.
...
See attached visual aids...
...for your pleasure:
Visual:
This is with the grub screws barely engaged. Or... "minimal string height":
Last edited:
And there you have it folks.Here's a friendly PSA about bridge swapping.
The Badass 2 is a Fender direct replacement.
Fenders are flat, no break. The neck/fingerboard is high above the body where they meet.
To have a fingerboard close to the body, BC RICH construction employs a shim under the fingerboard from about the 16th fret to the end of the board.
& the body falls away from the neck at an angle appropriate for the bridge being used.
For those mathematically inclined... rise over run formula:View attachment 7393874
So, the basic break angle for all the Fender replacement bridges is just under 1°
(.89°-ish)
The Badass 1 is taller... by a bunch.
It needs about a 1.75° break
Don't quote me on the exact Trigonometry (trimotromony?)...
...
But yeah no...
You can not use a BA 1 where a BA 2 (etc.) currently exists.
...
See attached visual aids...
...for your pleasure:
View attachment 7393875View attachment 7393876View attachment 7393877View attachment 7393878View attachment 7393879
Visual: View attachment 7393880View attachment 7393881
This is with the grub screws barely engaged. Or... "minimal string height":View attachment 7393882
