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OFFICIAL ASHDOWN CLUB

anyone use a Little bastard 30 in a rock band? i've been looking at one, and am wondering if it has enough "juice" to be on stage in a 4 piece rock band. I can always use PA support to get my sound to the crowd, but I'm wondering if the head and my genzler 2x12 would be enough to keep up with the stage volume?

I did have one...IMO, it depends on:
How loud your drummer is?
How much the guitarists crank their amps?
How dirty you like your signal?
How efficient your cab(s) are?

If you don't mind a very dirty/woolly tone and have efficient cabs it may be enough to be hear yourself as a backline but you'll def need PA support to play outfront, unless you're doing a small "unplugged" set. They do get louder than you'd think. Coupled with the right cab they can really make some noise, but it won't be clean
 
My first Ashdown!
 

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Anyone on here playing the CTM series? I have a chance at the CTM 100 for about $800 maybe less if he is willing to negotiate price. Looks to be in mint condition.

I suggest you take it for a test ride if you can, and see if you like it. I own CTM300 and think it's an awesome amp, but also heavily voiced and the EQ is very quirky. It think it's the type of amp you will either love or hate.

This is the darkest voiced amp in my collection, and IMHO it has a bit of a low mid push like an Ampeg. I use a three way Genz Benz 1288T with mine and the sound sort of reminds me of an SVT and 810. So basically I think the amp makes the mids and highs sound very vintage through extended range speakers.

The lows are another story. This amp doesn't produce what I would consider super deep bass, but the lows are the tightest of any tube amp in my collection, and I own a Trace Elliot V6 and Reeves 400 which are both known for great lows.

The push buttons on the EQ make more of an impact on the tone than the rotary controls. Also there is a lot of range on the rotary controls that is confusing. You might twist a knob and get the opposite of what you expect, or you might hear no apparent change at all.

My advice is start with the knobs at 9:00 and then keep adjustments within two clock faces settings. In other words keep your adjustments between 7-11:00. Within this range there are a lot of good sounds and the controls are relatively intuitive, except the Treble control sort of works in reverse with some push button settings and rotary control combinations. IMHO, remembering the 9:00 +/- 2 rule is very important if you decide to try this amp out.

Another quirk is the Mid Shift button actually affects the upper knee of the Bass control rather than the Mid control. If the Bass control is turned all the way down, the Mid Shift will not have any effect. When you engage the Mid Shift, the Bass control reaches further into the low mids.

Bottom line, the EQ on this amp is great for getting different sounds, but can be very confusing. The EQ is pretty much useless for dealing with poor acoustics. Usually I try to run my bass flat, but with this amp, I am more willing to reach for the tone controls on my bass. Also I think a pedal EQ like an Empress ParaEQ or Tech21 Qstrip would probably be very useful. Use the amp to dial in an awesome sound, set it and forget, and then use your EQ pedal to compensate for the room.

One last important thing I didn't cover yet. The CTM100/300 preamp is setup for pretty high gain and is designed to break over easily into OD. This is the only amp in my collection where I feel it's necessary to use the padded input to get a clean sound.

If you want a more, search CTM and my user name wasnex.
 
I’m sure this has been asked before, but I can’t find it. I’m looking into the ABM 210H EVO IV. Going to try the vertical stack thing for close quarters shows; what’s the general consensus? I use an MMSR5H through a MAG-600 and get a righteously cool low end, especially out doors. Appreciate y’alls opinions!
 
I suggest you take it for a test ride if you can, and see if you like it. I own CTM300 and think it's an awesome amp, but also heavily voiced and the EQ is very quirky. It think it's the type of amp you will either love or hate.

This is the darkest voiced amp in my collection, and IMHO it has a bit of a low mid push like an Ampeg. I use a three way Genz Benz 1288T with mine and the sound sort of reminds me of an SVT and 810. So basically I think the amp makes the mids and highs sound very vintage through extended range speakers.

The lows are another story. This amp doesn't produce what I would consider super deep bass, but the lows are the tightest of any tube amp in my collection, and I own a Trace Elliot V6 and Reeves 400 which are both known for great lows.

The push buttons on the EQ make more of an impact on the tone than the rotary controls. Also there is a lot of range on the rotary controls that is confusing. You might twist a knob and get the opposite of what you expect, or you might hear no apparent change at all.

My advice is start with the knobs at 9:00 and then keep adjustments within two clock faces settings. In other words keep your adjustments between 7-11:00. Within this range there are a lot of good sounds and the controls are relatively intuitive, except the Treble control sort of works in reverse with some push button settings and rotary control combinations. IMHO, remembering the 9:00 +/- 2 rule is very important if you decide to try this amp out.

Another quirk is the Mid Shift button actually affects the upper knee of the Bass control rather than the Mid control. If the Bass control is turned all the way down, the Mid Shift will not have any effect. When you engage the Mid Shift, the Bass control reaches further into the low mids.

Bottom line, the EQ on this amp is great for getting different sounds, but can be very confusing. The EQ is pretty much useless for dealing with poor acoustics. Usually I try to run my bass flat, but with this amp, I am more willing to reach for the tone controls on my bass. Also I think a pedal EQ like an Empress ParaEQ or Tech21 Qstrip would probably be very useful. Use the amp to dial in an awesome sound, set it and forget, and then use your EQ pedal to compensate for the room.

One last important thing I didn't cover yet. The CTM100/300 preamp is setup for pretty high gain and is designed to break over easily into OD. This is the only amp in my collection where I feel it's necessary to use the padded input to get a clean sound.

If you want a more, search CTM and my user name wasnex.

Thanks for all the info! Unfortunately the ashdown I would have to order from online retailer but would have a full month for return if I didnt like it. My other options are an Ampeg B25b with original cab but with blown speakers and an impedance matched for $300, hard not to jump in just price alone. A fully serviced and retubed '74 Ampeg V4b for under $700. A '68 Univox 1051 100w head that does 8-4-2 ohm loads and is $450 or a peavey VB2 for $550. Like I said cleans I'm not super worried about but would be nice to get those ultra warm cleans now and again but really think I am wanting something to get that old school grind like Entwistle, Geezer, Geddy, or Cisneros.
 
Thanks for all the info! Unfortunately the ashdown I would have to order from online retailer but would have a full month for return if I didnt like it. My other options are an Ampeg B25b with original cab but with blown speakers and an impedance matched for $300, hard not to jump in just price alone. A fully serviced and retubed '74 Ampeg V4b for under $700. A '68 Univox 1051 100w head that does 8-4-2 ohm loads and is $450 or a peavey VB2 for $550. Like I said cleans I'm not super worried about but would be nice to get those ultra warm cleans now and again but really think I am wanting something to get that old school grind like Entwistle, Geezer, Geddy, or Cisneros.

Most of the players you mention have a pretty bright sound. As I mentioned, I think the CTM is voiced pretty dark. The Bright switch does provide quite a bit of boost, but it reaches way down into the mids on my amp instead of boosting high treble. The CTM100 is setup to make some serious distortion though, so you never know.

Ampegs are pretty ubiquitous. I suggest you try to hunt down a V4B reissue to try out. It's always best to try before you buy instead of buying on hype

If any of the amps you list are local, go play them. The more amps you try, the more informed your decision will be.
 
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Most of the players you mention have a pretty bright sound. As I mentioned, I think the CTM is voiced pretty dark. The Bright switch does provide quite a bit of boost, but it reaches way down into the mids on my amp instead of boosting high treble. The CTM100 is setup to make some serious distortion though, so you never know.

Ampegs are pretty ubiquitous. I suggest you try to hunt down a V4B reissue to try out. It's always best to try before you buy instead of buying on hype

If any of the amps you list are local, go play them. The more amps you try, the more informed your decision will be.

I think Sunday and Monday I'm gonna hit 3 or 4 guitar shops that may have a v4b. I keep coming back to that one
 
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Hey, quick question.

I have zero knowledge of Ashdown gear. I've got a Yamaha BB434 posted locally. I've got a trade offer for an Ashdown RM800 (not the Evolution model). It seems to be close to mint in pictures. What would y'all say is the value on this head?

I have no need for gigging gear so I would immediately try to flip the head here on TB. Would there be a market for it? I need to get at least $350 out of all of this in the end.

Thanks for any help y'all can send.
 
Hey, quick question.

I have zero knowledge of Ashdown gear. I've got a Yamaha BB434 posted locally. I've got a trade offer for an Ashdown RM800 (not the Evolution model). It seems to be close to mint in pictures. What would y'all say is the value on this head?

I have no need for gigging gear so I would immediately try to flip the head here on TB. Would there be a market for it? I need to get at least $350 out of all of this in the end.

Thanks for any help y'all can send.

I think you'd be better off selling the Yamaha for the price you want and not wasting time with a trade if you're just going to flip it.

We're not supposed to give value appraisals unless you're a supporting member.
 
I think you'd be better off selling the Yamaha for the price you want and not wasting time with a trade if you're just going to flip it.

We're not supposed to give value appraisals unless you're a supporting member.

That's where I'm leaning, but its easier to ship a head than a bass and selling locally takes forever. Thought maybe this would speed things up a bit.

Thx for the info. Just signed up for the $5 a month deal as a supporting member. Cheers!
 
That's where I'm leaning, but its easier to ship a head than a bass and selling locally takes forever. Thought maybe this would speed things up a bit.

Thx for the info. Just signed up for the $5 a month deal as a supporting member. Cheers!
Well, in that case 350 seems like a fair price for that amp, but it might take a while to sell as they don't seem to be very popular. At one point I got a non Evo 800 when I had ordered an Evo, but i plugged it in anyway. Seemed under powered. I love my 800 evo, but I think most people interested in an RM amp right now would want to go for RM 500 Evo 2
 
Well, in that case 350 seems like a fair price for that amp, but it might take a while to sell as they don't seem to be very popular. At one point I got a non Evo 800 when I had ordered an Evo, but i plugged it in anyway. Seemed under powered. I love my 800 evo, but I think most people interested in an RM amp right now would want to go for RM 500 Evo 2

Thx for the help. I really do appreciate it.
 
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Most of the players you mention have a pretty bright sound. As I mentioned, I think the CTM is voiced pretty dark. The Bright switch does provide quite a bit of boost, but it reaches way down into the mids on my amp instead of boosting high treble. The CTM100 is setup to make some serious distortion though, so you never know.

Ampegs are pretty ubiquitous. I suggest you try to hunt down a V4B reissue to try out. It's always best to try before you buy instead of buying on hype

If any of the amps you list are local, go play them. The more amps you try, the more informed your decision will be.

Played a couple vintage tube heads over the weekend and played one or two more modern ones. Ended up getting an insane deal on a Mesa Prodigy at a guitar center that was returned. Ended up being a loose preamp or power tube. Amp was serviced but since it was returned as non functional they had to give a 50% discount off the used price! I couldn't play it but found it online listed just this morning online. Will be here end of the week! I am so pumped to have a Mesa again. I wasnt even considering their tube heads because my budget but this was too good of a deal and went for it.
 
I own the mesa prodigy, and it is a tube amp, but does not break up how you would think, it is not a good overdriven tone. I think that amp was made for clean tones, you will not get those nice furry tones like geezer, entwistle, (not familiar with geddy’s tone). Ashdown CTM and orange ad-200 would get you those tones, maybe the orange terror amps too but I have not heard or played those.
 
Settings on my 550 Spyder. This is 'home' settings - live setting puts the Gain and Master at noon, maybe a tad more depending. Mid-Sweep on, Bass Shift & Bright off, Pre-Post (never deal with) and mute (love having a mute switch) off in pic. I run through a pedal chain which further dials my tone ending up with a mid-present fat warm tone. My bass is more mid-treble voiced and I play mostly with a pick/palm-muting. Cuts through with definition but delivers a fat bass foundation. Tone nirvana.

It has a vintage Heathkit badge/plate on it for a couple of reasons. My 1st amp was a Heathkit that my dad & I built in '67, and when I was cleaning the chrome face of the Ashdown, the screen-printed "Spyder 550" came off.

fullsizeoutput_15b7.jpeg
 
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