Official Barefaced Bass Cab Club

[kasbrey]

Do you use the pair of them without PA support in those places you mentioned?

Yes, not through the PA, smallish carpeted pubs playing blues/rock/funk. From the buzz on the forums I expected 2 to be louder than, say a single Markbass 121H, but it seems that they don't defy their size so much. I had a pair of Eden CXC10's years ago for my EUB and I'd say they were a similar volume.
I'm still hoping that another amp or different settings etc. may yield better results.

 

[alexclaber]

Yes, not through the PA, smallish carpeted pubs playing blues/rock/funk. From the buzz on the forums I expected 2 to be louder than, say a single Markbass 121H, but it seems that they don't defy their size so much. I had a pair of Eden CXC10's years ago for my EUB and I'd say they were a similar volume.
I'm still hoping that another amp or different settings etc. may yield better results.

I do find this very strange. Are they both correct polarity? (We do test this). Are both working properly, do they sound identical? (Again we test this). I'd expect one to go as loud as a 121H or two CXC10s.

 

[kasbrey]

I do find this very strange. Are they both correct polarity? (We do test this). Are both working properly, do they sound identical? (Again we test this). I'd expect one to go as loud as a 121H or two CXC10s.

Hi Alex. Just tested the polarity and they're the same so that's fine. They sound the same too.
I have my suspicions that it may have something to do with the way I'd set the amp gain stages but I need to test at the next rehearsal with different amps. Trying both at home now they sound so loud that it's confusing!
My first gig I only had one and it sounded great but it was a lively room. Do you think that having them on their side might make a difference in a carpeted stage area?

 

[lomo]

FWIW my One 10 stack gets very loud....easily enough to fill a small bar without PA, even with an average rock drummer. With a reasonable drummer I can use one with PA and hear myself without difficulty......at all.

 

[BigEarl]

FWIW my One 10 stack gets very loud....easily enough to fill a small bar without PA, even with an average rock drummer. With a reasonable drummer I can use one with PA and hear myself without difficulty......at all.

+1 for my One10 stack and Quilter Bass Block 800

 

[Plutonium244]

Yes, not through the PA, smallish carpeted pubs playing blues/rock/funk. From the buzz on the forums I expected 2 to be louder than, say a single Markbass 121H, but it seems that they don't defy their size so much. I had a pair of Eden CXC10's years ago for my EUB and I'd say they were a similar volume.
I'm still hoping that another amp or different settings etc. may yield better results.

Just curious, did you have the bottom One10 directly on the carpeted floor? With the port on the bottom, carpet is less than ideal as a surface, I always use a gramma pad or other flat board in those situations. Once I put my One10 on the diner-booth-styled bench with the unfirm cushion, and found the soft and irregular surface kind of blocked up the port (which is okay but changes the sound I expect to hear). There's a good chance your issue has nothing to do with this, but if no other answer suggests itself, it's something to think about.

 

[kasbrey]

Just curious, did you have the bottom One10 directly on the carpeted floor?.

I did. Having the port at the side is something I intend to try at the next rehearsal along with everything else I've already mentioned. The rehearsal room and my next gig have wooden floors.

 

[BigEarl]

I did. Having the port at the side is something I intend to try at the next rehearsal along with everything else I've already mentioned. The rehearsal room and my next gig have wooden floors.

Be ready, those One10's on their side can get boomy depending on your room. I have been wanting to try the "T-bone" layout I saw on the DB side. Bottom cab on its side, top cab strait up.

 

[oysteivi]

I was reading the raves about the Bugera Veyron amp and was wondering if anyone in this thread has used either the tube or the mosfet and how it pushed the BF. I know the 2K watts is over exaggerated but am still curious about how it would push my BTII.
Also has anyone tried the new Aguilar AG700 with their BF cabs.
Thanks Steve

I run the tube preamp veyron into a super twin, which is plenty loud without turning up too much. Master / power amp volume sits at 9 o'clock, which is really all I need for my hard rock band where everyone wears hearing protection. If I turn up any more, I start to have problems hearing the guitars.

 

[DaveAceofBass]

For the last two night I played my BB2 with an Acoustic Image Clarus Series 4+ head on upright bass gigs. I used different uprights each night, but both nights I kept hearing a rattle on certain notes at higher dynamics that was driving me crazy. I'm not sure what is vibrating...at first I thought it might be the amp on top of the cab, so I put a towel under it, but it was still there. I wonder if it might be the handle cover that falls off...usually it isn't loose when the handle is in against the cab, only when I pick it up. I thought I might go around with a screwdriver later and make sure nothing is coming loose. I also wondered if it might have been the HF horn. I don't really know how to adjust the attenuator on the back of the cab. It's very confusing...can anyone give me some insight?

 

[Plutonium244]

For the last two night I played my BB2 with an Acoustic Image Clarus Series 4+ head on upright bass gigs. I used different uprights each night, but both nights I kept hearing a rattle on certain notes at higher dynamics that was driving me crazy. I'm not sure what is vibrating...at first I thought it might be the amp on top of the cab, so I put a towel under it, but it was still there. I wonder if it might be the handle cover that falls off...usually it isn't loose when the handle is in against the cab, only when I pick it up. I thought I might go around with a screwdriver later and make sure nothing is coming loose. I also wondered if it might have been the HF horn. I don't really know how to adjust the attenuator on the back of the cab. It's very confusing...can anyone give me some insight?

The horn dial as not really an attenuator, so much as a crossover point control. So, all the way left = low crossover point = high end signal to the horn mostly; all the way right = high crossover point = more high end freq's going to the 12" driver. Don't quote me on this but I think the lowest crossover point is about 4kHz, not sure about highest. I doubt this has anything to do with your rattle.

Good idea to check all screws for tightness on the exterior, including the grill and corners, and if still there, then on the 12" driver screws where it secures to the cab. One thing that CAN happen, with this cab or any other (would be rare), is that the little cleats that secure the driver inside the cab (where the crew screws into it) can come loose (if the screw is already loose) and fall loose into the cab. Because it's metal, it will likely find its way onto the magnet. It can buzz/rattle. I have had that happen on a cab before.

 

[mcnach]

Yes, not through the PA, smallish carpeted pubs playing blues/rock/funk. From the buzz on the forums I expected 2 to be louder than, say a single Markbass 121H, but it seems that they don't defy their size so much. I had a pair of Eden CXC10's years ago for my EUB and I'd say they were a similar volume.
I'm still hoping that another amp or different settings etc. may yield better results.

Hmm... I'd expect the pair of them to sound a fair amount bigger than the 121H, based on my experiences with the Two10.

 

[mcnach]

For the last two night I played my BB2 with an Acoustic Image Clarus Series 4+ head on upright bass gigs. I used different uprights each night, but both nights I kept hearing a rattle on certain notes at higher dynamics that was driving me crazy. I'm not sure what is vibrating...at first I thought it might be the amp on top of the cab, so I put a towel under it, but it was still there. I wonder if it might be the handle cover that falls off...usually it isn't loose when the handle is in against the cab, only when I pick it up. I thought I might go around with a screwdriver later and make sure nothing is coming loose. I also wondered if it might have been the HF horn. I don't really know how to adjust the attenuator on the back of the cab. It's very confusing...can anyone give me some insight?

When I went to try the BB2 with this local guy he mentioned a rattle that was annoying him and he had had no chance to investigate properly by himself... so with the two of us we quickly found that it was the handle rattling. He had a small towel that he carries to gigs and he put it through the handle: the rattling stopped.
Worth trying?

 

[DaveAceofBass]

The horn dial as not really an attenuator, so much as a crossover point control. So, all the way left = low crossover point = high end signal to the horn mostly; all the way right = high crossover point = more high end freq's going to the 12" driver. Don't quote me on this but I think the lowest crossover point is about 4kHz, not sure about highest. I doubt this has anything to do with your rattle.

That's counterintuitive. On most cabs, these attenuators to the left shuts off the tweeter, and to the right its full on. I get the idea but wonder why they made it so?

 

[dave64o]

One short description of the how/why is on the web page for the BB2. It says "At the twist of a knob the complex crossover takes you from old school bass cab smoothness to uncompromising studio monitor accuracy". Remember the knob is not a tweeter boost/cut. It adjusts the crossover point and, keeping that in mind, it is intuitive in that to the left = a low crossover point and to the right = a high crossover point.

Based on what I've read on the Barefaced web site and in this thread, the idea was to change the character of the cabinet while still giving you a more full range sound out of it. At a low crossover point, the mid/high driver does more of the work and you get a more clear and hi-fi tone. At a high crossover point the woofer does more of the work and you get a more old school or smooth tone, somewhat similar to a Super Compact (which has no mid/high driver), but still with the higher highs in the output for clarity (and I guess dispersion).

Hopefully I got that right... If not, someone please jump in to correct what I got wrong.

 

[Plutonium244]

That's counterintuitive. On most cabs, these attenuators to the left shuts off the tweeter, and to the right its full on. I get the idea but wonder why they made it so?

You are certainly not the only person confused by it, and I can see how that would be so, UNTIL one knows what it actually is doing. But it makes complete sense, again, when you remember it's a crossover point setting, not a horn level dial.

As with any frequency dial on any gear I have ever seen, the lower frequency is always left and the higher is right. Sweepable mid on your amp? Well, the low frequency points are on the left side of the knob. Thus, similarly, when you are setting the point w/ this cab at which the frequency spectrum is divided into "horn" and "driver," lower frequency is on the left and higher on the right.

"Normal" horns are such that ANY frequency above, say, 4kHz is going to come from the horn, or you're not going to get it at all; you'll never get any freq over 4kHz from the driver, ever, no matter your setting. You're just setting how much, from none at all to a full amount, of frequerncies over 4k. ( I am picking 4kHz arbitrarily here for example purposes, but 4kHZ IS the lowest Barefaced crossover point so anything UNDER that is definitely coming from the 12" driver).

With a "normal" horn, you'll NEVER get anything above that point to come from the driver instead. With these Barefaced and similar cabs, you can have, say, 6kHz come from the horn if you want, or the driver. So, IMO it's not counter-intuitive, once you stop thinking of it as "horn level". That's not what that knob does. I would MUCH rather have this horn set-up than the "normal" set-up.

I know I must be doing a terrible job explaining, because it does not seem counter-intuitive to me at all. Indeed, when you know what this knob is, crossover point, it would be counter-intuitive to have it the other way.

 

[friskinator]

Did gig #2 with my One10/MB200 rig a couple nights ago, and with good results. No PA support this time, and the gig was in a fairly large restaurant with high ceilings. I had the rig sitting on a table about waist high, and was no more than a few feet from it while playing. It sounded great, but I wish I'd tried it on the floor since it was lacking a bit of low end.

I've got a few more gigs coming up soon, so I'm excited to see how it sounds in various environments. And I'm still loving the one-trip load in with no hand cart.

 

[lomo]

And I'm still loving the one-trip load in with no hand cart.

LOL.....and you could probably learn to balance the whole rig on top of your head in order to keep your hands free......did you boost lows on the MB200? The cab will handle that nicely.

 

[CalBuzz51]

Maybe the quick way to say it:

Tweeter on/off - prevents woofer from playing high freqs in it's range when tweeter is off.

Variable crossover - Allows woofer to play it's full range when bypassing tweeter.

 

[John D Harris]

Maybe the quick way to say it:

Tweeter on/off - prevents woofer from playing high freqs in it's range when tweeter is off.

Variable crossover - Allows woofer to play it's full range when bypassing tweeter.

Some designs allow the woofer to run without a low pass filter.
The HF driver will be controlled by a high pass filter.
In this case the output will include the woofer's full range output.
The crossover (in this case) normally is designed to match the high end roll off of the woofer to the roll on of the high pass filter.
If you have a control on the l-pad in this case it would not affect the woofer's output at all.
It would only serve as an attenuator for the HF driver.