Different drivers does throw in more variables. Maybe that is why GR created the ONE 1400. One amp runs the 212, the other amp with a separate volume control, operates the 112(s). Both amps in the same head.
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Official GR Bass Club
- Thread starter johnpaulbass
- Start date
Yes!!!
So we're talking a DUAL Dual 1400??
I'm at UK Bass show in April, Bass Direct have a GR rep there, I'll ask em!!
After years of searching, I can finally achieve the deep bass tones that I have been looking for in a light package. Under 35 lbs. combined (15.25 Kg)
I plugged it in and it made me smile (a great big one)
Thank you GR Bass
I plugged it in and it made me smile (a great big one)
Thank you GR Bass
The ONE 1400 amp gives you one channel and two power amps (700 watts each) built into one unit which gives you the ability to drive two 4 ohm cabinets, or one 4 ohm & two 8 ohm cabinets, or four 8 ohm cabinets.
The DUAL 1400 gives you two channels and two power amps built into one unit which gives you the above plus a 2nd channel for distortion/ different sound setting, or a 2nd instrument such as a keyboard/ synth.
The DUAL 1400 gives you two channels and two power amps built into one unit which gives you the above plus a 2nd channel for distortion/ different sound setting, or a 2nd instrument such as a keyboard/ synth.
- Nov 2, 2005
- 1,284
- 587
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Pyramid Strings, MPE Audio
After having my AT212 cab a couple weeks, taking some time to go through it and ultimately having used live a couple times I thought I'd take a minute and share my findings and thoughts so far. First off, as everyone says, it's a really good sounding cabinet. 1# or 100# makes no difference if it's not to your liking. For reference I like a clean, deep, 'bouncy', modern sound, if that makes sense. Not a tubby, hairy, vintage sound. I have always been a 'ten' guy. A couple vertically 2x10 cabs stacked or a single GK 2x10 combo was always great for me. But I always thought that a 2x12 cab could do all the 2x10 business but better. After having my AT212 cab a couple weeks, taking some time to go through it and ultimately having used live a couple times I thought I'd take a minute and share my findings and thoughts so far. First off, as everyone says, it's a really good sounding cabinet. 1# or 100# makes no difference if it's not to your liking. For reference I like a clean, deep, 'bouncy', modern sound, if that makes sense. Not a tubby, hairy, vintage sound. I have always been a 'ten' guy. A couple vertically 2x10 cabs stacked or a single GK 2x10 combo was always great for me. But I always thought that a 2x12 cab could do all the 2x10 business but better. I took a coupel swings at that on separate occasions with some Bergantino CN212 boxes but it just didn't work for me. And the size and weight relative to the 2x10 cabs I used and liked made no practical sense. Then I stumble on to the GR product and the 212 slim is immediately attractive. pel swings at that on separate occasions with some Bergantino CN212 boxes but it just didn't work for me. And the size and weight relative to the 2x10 cabs I used and liked made no practical sense. Then I stumble on to the GR product and the 212 slim is immediately attractive. Read the reviews and they're all rave. So I am off to locate one. Easier said than done but was finally fortunate to fine a couple very nice lightly used/nearly new ones offered up so I did the deal and had one shipped in. The one I first opted in for came to me from TX and it arrived in perfect condition. Last owner purchased new late last year so for all practical purposes it was new. I was pretty thrilled to try it out and as expected the weight did not disappoint.
So, as I do with everything I buy, I gave it an initial once over then a few days later a much more detailed inspection. My research had planted a couple seeds about potential fragility, durability and quality control/construction issues so those were certainly in the back of my mind. First contact did show that it was a solid box but probably nothing that would take the same travel abuses as a plywood box but I think that's understood and accepted.
I was a bit disappointed with the feet and corners. Both are, frankly and in my opinion, laughably inferior for a box of this quality. I knew about this going in though so I was prepared for the feet which I immediately changed out for a set of Penn F1686 large rubber feet. Those original tiny bumpers were destined to be torn out and that just creates more issues no one wants. The larger foot supports itself and is just better for me.
The corners I can't do much about yet. Thinking about options but I intend to be careful so they will probably stay as is. But again, they won't offer very much protection and the tiny screws into whatever material they're screwed into is not great. I went through them all and every one was loose, and a few were already stripped. And mind you, this is an essentially new cabinet so things would only go downhill from there in the future. My 'fix' was an effective trick i use all the time on guitars and basses, for small screw holes and the lifting paint around them, mostly pickguard screws. I drop in a small bit of super thin super glue which, once dry, strengthens the screw hole and thread path. For any stripped holes an small length of flat toothpick, thin glue and insert the screw and it keeps things beautifully tight and from loosening from vibrations. And now those are now just so much better and no longer a concern.
Those loose screws had me thinking what else might be loose. I snugged all the handle and input panel screws, and nothing of concern there. But, reaching through the grill to snug the speaker screws that I could easily see was a different story. many were quite loose, 2, 3 or more full turns loose and if I hadn't addressed them would have certainly vibrated more loose or out in time. For folks that have complained of buzzing or rattling I'd encourage you to start here. That meant I had to remove the grill to get to everything. Easy task and for those that haven't seen the beautiful CF baffle here it is:
And from the inside. You can see the T-nuts snugging into the CF so I would be careful to not over tighten. I think that I may go back and put a small drop of blue thread lock on each speaker mounting screw to insure that any vibration from use or transport doesn't work them loose again.
And, a note on the rubber grill standoffs. The grill screws fit very tightly through the grill metal and through those rubber 'feet'. It makes reassembly far more fiddly than it needs to be. I used a step bit to very slightly enlarge the grill holes and a standard bit to run through the rubber bits and very slightly enlarge those holes as well. This allows the grill screws to more easily pass through both and aligning things a breeze.
After all that I was content that things were now solid, secure and right.
As far as the sound, that is written about all over and what folks say is true. This is a very clean, clear, and musically well voiced cabinet. My prior 2x12s were more inherently 'woofy' and something I couldn't EQ out nor did I like. This has none of that. Using a GK MB500 head with my G&L JB5 (Nordstrand pickups and Audere 4 band preamp) and the cab tweeter set to 'half' I realized after the last job how little EQ I was actually using. Amp controls were essentially flat and I would only make the smallest onboard EQ bass and treble adjustments and the sound was perfect for me. It's just that little bit better across the board than my 2x10's, especially down low, where the bass really feels. It suits me very well.
I did add a Tuki padded cover which I think is essential in keeping this box in good shape, it will offer abrasion small bump protection.
That's my story so far. Hope someone stumbles on this and finds something useful or helpful in it.
So, as I do with everything I buy, I gave it an initial once over then a few days later a much more detailed inspection. My research had planted a couple seeds about potential fragility, durability and quality control/construction issues so those were certainly in the back of my mind. First contact did show that it was a solid box but probably nothing that would take the same travel abuses as a plywood box but I think that's understood and accepted.
I was a bit disappointed with the feet and corners. Both are, frankly and in my opinion, laughably inferior for a box of this quality. I knew about this going in though so I was prepared for the feet which I immediately changed out for a set of Penn F1686 large rubber feet. Those original tiny bumpers were destined to be torn out and that just creates more issues no one wants. The larger foot supports itself and is just better for me.
The corners I can't do much about yet. Thinking about options but I intend to be careful so they will probably stay as is. But again, they won't offer very much protection and the tiny screws into whatever material they're screwed into is not great. I went through them all and every one was loose, and a few were already stripped. And mind you, this is an essentially new cabinet so things would only go downhill from there in the future. My 'fix' was an effective trick i use all the time on guitars and basses, for small screw holes and the lifting paint around them, mostly pickguard screws. I drop in a small bit of super thin super glue which, once dry, strengthens the screw hole and thread path. For any stripped holes an small length of flat toothpick, thin glue and insert the screw and it keeps things beautifully tight and from loosening from vibrations. And now those are now just so much better and no longer a concern.
Those loose screws had me thinking what else might be loose. I snugged all the handle and input panel screws, and nothing of concern there. But, reaching through the grill to snug the speaker screws that I could easily see was a different story. many were quite loose, 2, 3 or more full turns loose and if I hadn't addressed them would have certainly vibrated more loose or out in time. For folks that have complained of buzzing or rattling I'd encourage you to start here. That meant I had to remove the grill to get to everything. Easy task and for those that haven't seen the beautiful CF baffle here it is:
And from the inside. You can see the T-nuts snugging into the CF so I would be careful to not over tighten. I think that I may go back and put a small drop of blue thread lock on each speaker mounting screw to insure that any vibration from use or transport doesn't work them loose again.
And, a note on the rubber grill standoffs. The grill screws fit very tightly through the grill metal and through those rubber 'feet'. It makes reassembly far more fiddly than it needs to be. I used a step bit to very slightly enlarge the grill holes and a standard bit to run through the rubber bits and very slightly enlarge those holes as well. This allows the grill screws to more easily pass through both and aligning things a breeze.
After all that I was content that things were now solid, secure and right.
As far as the sound, that is written about all over and what folks say is true. This is a very clean, clear, and musically well voiced cabinet. My prior 2x12s were more inherently 'woofy' and something I couldn't EQ out nor did I like. This has none of that. Using a GK MB500 head with my G&L JB5 (Nordstrand pickups and Audere 4 band preamp) and the cab tweeter set to 'half' I realized after the last job how little EQ I was actually using. Amp controls were essentially flat and I would only make the smallest onboard EQ bass and treble adjustments and the sound was perfect for me. It's just that little bit better across the board than my 2x10's, especially down low, where the bass really feels. It suits me very well.
I did add a Tuki padded cover which I think is essential in keeping this box in good shape, it will offer abrasion small bump protection.
That's my story so far. Hope someone stumbles on this and finds something useful or helpful in it.
- Nov 2, 2005
- 1,284
- 587
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Pyramid Strings, MPE Audio
- Nov 2, 2005
- 1,284
- 587
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Pyramid Strings, MPE Audio
Saturday gig pic in Ljubljana, Slovenia (Orto bar)
Thanks for the forensic detail, brilliant
Hope yr still smiling while using !!
Here's a reply I got from GR , after asking about potential warranty issues if I replace the feet, while intending to use the original fixings/holes … btw, they answered my query on Telegram in less than 10 minutes… on a Sunday evening
Hello, if it is only a question of replacing the feet without changing the holes on the cabinet, then without changing the structure of the cabinet, the warranty remains valid. But I suggest you save your original feet
And there you go!! I shall be replacing mine soon
Interesting info and thank you for that. It's something I hadn't even considered because I bought it used. I don't know if the warranty is even transferrable so the point for me may be moot. I actually reused the same original screws into the same holes so ultimately it's as if there was no change at all, 'structurally' and I contend we're less likely to have tearout issues with a wider supporting foot platform with generally lower side force leverage on the foot.
Hi guys!
You might be the the people I need.
So I have been looking for a "transparent" amp for my pedalboard setup. I have two cabs. 1x15 and a 4x10. Is the gr stuff just the perfect fit for this kind of setup. I have been gassing over them for a while. They are also pretty descently priced here in finland. Also thomann is an option.
Aleksi
You might be the the people I need.
So I have been looking for a "transparent" amp for my pedalboard setup. I have two cabs. 1x15 and a 4x10. Is the gr stuff just the perfect fit for this kind of setup. I have been gassing over them for a while. They are also pretty descently priced here in finland. Also thomann is an option.
Aleksi
Iwas really thinking about that excactly. Is the some sort of rackears for this thing or should I just get a bag for it?
- Nov 2, 2005
- 1,284
- 587
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Pyramid Strings, MPE Audio
