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Official Zon Club Part 3

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I used to think the Sonus Special 5 I had a while back was the best fretless I'd ever played... then I played a "sorta" TJ5 fretless we got in for review. Oh my gosh, it was even better. I say "sorta" because the body shape was the same, but there were a lot of other diffs between it and a real TJ5 made to Todd's spec.

Phenomenal instrument, and if fretless was my main instrument (it is not by a long shot these days), that bass never woulda' left my hands after the mag was done with it. Never.

Yes...mine is a "sorta" also....mahogany with maple top instead of alder with maple...of course fretless, 5-string and 29 positions on the fingerboard...and the fingerboard doesn't go all the way to the neck pick-up which is also moved a bit towards the bridge.
 
Yes...mine is a "sorta" also....mahogany with maple top instead of alder with maple...of course fretless, 5-string and 29 positions on the fingerboard...and the fingerboard doesn't go all the way to the neck pick-up which is also moved a bit towards the bridge.
Also, the one we tested I think had different pickups, preamp, and no ramp, but I'd have to go back to the site and review to double check. Anyway, not a true TJ per the video, but it didn't really matter to me. :)
 
Yes...in theory this works, but remeber your dealing with a headless instrument with less overall string length from one end to the other...this small difference makes a huge difference if string tension is critical to you style of play. I noticed if your a slapper it actually makes it easier to play, and its fun, but if your into quick fingerstyle jaco like runs this design might not work for you. I'm not saying its bad, just be aware of the performance/response of a design like this.
You know, the physics pretty much requires that the tension will equivalent for the same fundamental at the same scale length.

That said, the lossiness of the fulcrums has a big effect on your perception of "tightness." So, it isn't just the headless vs non-headless at issue. Any two instruments that have different hold down technology at either the bridge or nut will have different feels. Its not tension, but fulcrum point loss characteristics you are describing. Different things, but ultimately to the player either can be decisive. IMO.
 
You know, the physics pretty much requires that the tension will equivalent for the same fundamental at the same scale length.

That said, the lossiness of the fulcrums has a big effect on your perception of "tightness." So, it isn't just the headless vs non-headless at issue. Any two instruments that have different hold down technology at either the bridge or nut will have different feels. Its not tension, but fulcrum point loss characteristics you are describing. Different things, but ultimately to the player either can be decisive. IMO.
Agreed, and this is what I'd expect as well, which I would think would yield a stiffer feel on the headless design, but maybe something else is going on. I look forward to the A/B test ehque says he can do when he gets his VB. :)

In the mean time, again, no biggie. :)
 
I'll just add that my Sonus Special 5, which is Gard's old bass and first cousin to the axe Kesslari has up for sale, is just killin' through my Shuttle 9 / AE212. Joe may make better fretless instruments; but, that's the fretless rig I'm goin' to the grave with.
 
I'll just add that my Sonus Special 5, which is Gard's old bass and first cousin to the axe Kesslari has up for sale, is just killin' through my Shuttle 9 / AE212. Joe may make better fretless instruments; but, that's the fretless rig I'm goin' to the grave with.

Zon basses with Bergantino Cabs=PURE MUSICAL TONE BLISS!!!!
BTW- I'm going to my grave too with my Zon mod TJ-6 (a pure thoroughbred)
its great to be alive at a time in history when we are seeing the evolution of the bass guitar happen right in front of us....go Joe!!!
 
A question about Zon's repair time.
My bass is actually @ Zon's HQ (I would be really pleased if someone there would take few minutes to answer my mail).
Considering I want a truss rod installed and minor setup, do you have any idea how long it may take them ?
Thanks
 
A question about Zon's repair time.
My bass is actually @ Zon's HQ (I would be really pleased if someone there would take few minutes to answer my mail).
Considering I want a truss rod installed and minor setup, do you have any idea how long it may take them ?
Thanks

I can't imagine a truss rod install being an easy repair. Can't help you, but a route+install for new pickups and electronics took Zon about a month.
 
The truss rod install actually requires that the fretboard be removed, the neck modified to fit the adjustment rod (which takes a while), a brand new fretboard fitted, attached, fretted, and finished, then the whole neck refinished. It's a substantial job.

Though I have no idea what their wait times are.
 
Hi All,

I've been playing my FRETLESS VB4 with D'Addario Chrome Flats since I got it in April. I finally managed to get a set to TI Flats on it because I've been dying to try them and know a few folks use them here. However, I have some buzzing issues that I'd like to ask about. One thing to note that this is a composite neck so I don't believe it can be adjusted in that regard - is that right?

I managed to raise the action on E and A enough to solve the majority of the buzzing (I play very lightly) but there are a few trouble spots.

MAIN ISSUE
E string, frets 1 and 2 - no matter how light I play there is an appreciable clangor - some of which makes it through to the amp. This is the biggest issue since it makes it through. When I raise the action and then have to tune down the string (which reduces the tension,right?) my concern is that I'll never get rid of it without making the action way too high.

SECONDARY ISSUE
A string - if I play it open and then fret at the octave the back half (nut half? top half?) of the string buzzes for a bit before dying out. I can mute it but not always comfortably depending on what I'm playing. Same issue happens to a slightly less degree with D and G strings. The 5th also buzzes slightly under the same scenario on the A string.

Raising the action doesn't help for these problems with A/D/G since it's the wrong side of the fret that is causing the buzz. Do I need to think about putting something in the nut grooves (or whatever you call them) to raise the string slightly there? Or is that overkill? This sound does NOT make it through the amp.

So - is it possible to have TI Flats on this without buzz? Or is the looser tension just something you need to live with for a few buzzy notes here and there? What is the "accepted minimum tolerance" on something like this? Do I just need to raise my action on the E until the buzz is no more and then bring the other strings up to par as well so the action is consistent?

Any help GREATLY appreciated! Thanks!
 
HyperbasS. He has a new vb4?

Sorry I should have been more specific. He was playing the 'newish' VB4 with the buckeye top. It replaced what Michael describes as the ZON VB4 prototype (aka "Vinny") when he retired the prototype (proto was built in 1993). A picture of the prototype can be found on Page 6 of the extended notes for his last album Soliloquy. According to the notes, Vinny has an alder body. Does anyone know what Michael calls the buckeye VB4? He usually has names for all his instruments. The buckeye VB4 was very bright last night. I have noticed that before when he changes from Hyperbass to VB4.

I will post a short description of his set. He played three numbers. I will see him on Tuesday and I wanted to check a few details about the pieces he played before I did.

Alastair
 
Deposit laid down...

Zon Sonus 5
Standard body shape
Standard J style pickupes
34" scale
24 frets
19mm spacing (new)
Bart three band with mid switch

lightweight ash body
koa top (see below)

Still deciding on chrome or black hardware, no matching face on the headstock. On a Zon, I just like the plain black best.

Now the long wait. :)

zon-koa-3-11-a.jpg
 
That is a lovely hunk o' wood there, Vic. Gonna be a nice bass!
I prefer black HW, but that's just me. I love the way my new Zon looks with the black - and with a "straight" black headstock, the black tuners look pretty wonderfully "stealth".

You going high-gloss or low-gloss finish?
 
That is a lovely hunk o' wood there, Vic. Gonna be a nice bass!
I prefer black HW, but that's just me. I love the way my new Zon looks with the black - and with a "straight" black headstock, the black tuners look pretty wonderfully "stealth".

You going high-gloss or low-gloss finish?
I am leaning towards black, and I am also leaning towards the newer satin finish. I love the way it works on other basses that have that type of finish, and done right, you don't really lose any figure vibrancy or depth, either.
 
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