Thanks, LightForce! We aim to please, even if it's from afar!!
I'm spitballing some ideas with a fellow TB'er who represents a new instrument company. Depending on what ideas stick, I may have something quite unique to show 'round the place.
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Projekt In Progress: "Jazz-Ray" Build
- Thread starter Malak the Mad
- Start date
Thanks, LightForce! We aim to please, even if it's from afar!!
I'm spitballing some ideas with a fellow TB'er who represents a new instrument company. Depending on what ideas stick, I may have something quite unique to show 'round the place.
Aww man, you're gonna have another bass for me to gas for!Thanks, LightForce! We aim to please, even if it's from afar!!
I'm spitballing some ideas with a fellow TB'er who represents a new instrument company. Depending on what ideas stick, I may have something quite unique to show 'round the place.
Greetings All!
Yes, it's been a while since I've updated this thread, but I'm glad to say the gears are turning and progress is abound!
Today, I've made significant strides towards the final completion of my newest projekt. After much deliberation, not to mention a very helpful and productive conversation with Brian Roossien from Warmoth, I've placed an order for my weirdo Stingray-Aerodyne-Jazz-hybrid. That's right, True-Believers…for a modest bump to the construction cost, Warmoth's shop foreman will be able to include route to accommodate a Stratocaster-style output jack! 
Here are the basic specs I submitted…
I. BODY
). I'm going to go all-out-Minwax on this puppy, starting with a layer of Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner followed up with a couple coats of Glossy Bombay Mahogany PolyShades. And although it's my first-ever attempt to do my own finish, I have a few pieces of scrap wood I can practice on. After all, I need something to do while waiting for it to arrive. 
I also want to give a shout-out to @MarkoYYZ who will be supplying one of his black-finished, aluminum SmartAss bridges for this projekt.
II. ELECTRONICS
It's still my intention to get something as close as possible to the sound of the Seventies-era Stingray. Thanks to an online, Guitar Center coupon, I got a decent discount on a brand-new, Seymour Duncan alnico MusicMan pickup. Hopefully it, when combined with a Retrovibe Stinger EQ preamp, will get me there.
@Bassbadger Sorry, David, but I feel the need to confess to taking advantage of the slight, Brexit-induced hit to the British Pound before ordering it. Call it "mildly-mercenary pragmatism".
On the flip-side, know that I will take every opportunity to rave about your work when this projekt all comes together.
III. NECK
In keeping with the Seventies-groove of the electronics, I've decided to use the neck from my Fender Classic '70s Jazz. It's a fantastic neck and I feel the rosewood, blocks and binding will work just fine with the overall package. Also, it already has a Hipshot Drop-D tuner installed, which is a standard feature on all my creations.
Many thanks, All Y'all, for taking some time and burning through some bandwidth on this thread. Comments, suggestions and constructive criticism are always welcome. 'Til then…
Yes, it's been a while since I've updated this thread, but I'm glad to say the gears are turning and progress is abound!
Today, I've made significant strides towards the final completion of my newest projekt. After much deliberation, not to mention a very helpful and productive conversation with Brian Roossien from Warmoth, I've placed an order for my weirdo Stingray-Aerodyne-Jazz-hybrid. That's right, True-Believers…for a modest bump to the construction cost, Warmoth's shop foreman will be able to include route to accommodate a Stratocaster-style output jack!
Here are the basic specs I submitted…I. BODY
- Model: J Bass
- Scale: 34 in.
- Right/Left: Right handed
- Wood: Swamp Ash
- Control Cavity: Rear Rout
- Pickup Rout: Music Man (Sweet Spot)
- Control Rout: Volume, Treble Boost/Cut, Bass Boost/Cut (plus the Strat-jack route)
- Bridge Type: Hardtail
- Bridge Rout: No Bridge - Ground Wire Rout Only
- Jack Rout: No Side Jack Hole
- Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt
- Battery Box: Single Battery Box
). I'm going to go all-out-Minwax on this puppy, starting with a layer of Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner followed up with a couple coats of Glossy Bombay Mahogany PolyShades. And although it's my first-ever attempt to do my own finish, I have a few pieces of scrap wood I can practice on. After all, I need something to do while waiting for it to arrive. I also want to give a shout-out to @MarkoYYZ who will be supplying one of his black-finished, aluminum SmartAss bridges for this projekt.
II. ELECTRONICS
It's still my intention to get something as close as possible to the sound of the Seventies-era Stingray. Thanks to an online, Guitar Center coupon, I got a decent discount on a brand-new, Seymour Duncan alnico MusicMan pickup. Hopefully it, when combined with a Retrovibe Stinger EQ preamp, will get me there.
@Bassbadger Sorry, David, but I feel the need to confess to taking advantage of the slight, Brexit-induced hit to the British Pound before ordering it. Call it "mildly-mercenary pragmatism".
On the flip-side, know that I will take every opportunity to rave about your work when this projekt all comes together.III. NECK
In keeping with the Seventies-groove of the electronics, I've decided to use the neck from my Fender Classic '70s Jazz. It's a fantastic neck and I feel the rosewood, blocks and binding will work just fine with the overall package. Also, it already has a Hipshot Drop-D tuner installed, which is a standard feature on all my creations.
Many thanks, All Y'all, for taking some time and burning through some bandwidth on this thread. Comments, suggestions and constructive criticism are always welcome. 'Til then…
Doner Designs
Steve Doner
- Jun 2, 2012
- 5,784
- 6,819
- Disclosures
- Doner Designs is an alias for Steve Doner
Your thread title got my attention because of my current project...
Build Thread: "JazzMan" Bass
By the way, what is a Smartass bridge? Love the name. Would like to see a picture.
Build Thread: "JazzMan" Bass
By the way, what is a Smartass bridge? Love the name. Would like to see a picture.
There must be something in the air because I too am making a Stingray 'hybrid' (again!)
In the past, inspired by the original JazzRay from Fender32, I made a couple of Status necked JazzRays:
But this time I am making a Precision bodied 'Ray (also from Warmoth) and using a Nordstrand MM4 quad coil pickup. I have tried Seymour Duncans (ceramic and alnico) in the past, but this pickup is really close to my original Stingrays and gives me noiseless, split, single coil options.
I never remember to change the batteries in my Stringrays and once had to replace the entire battery compartment, (thanks to a leaking battery) so this bass is all passive with only a volume and tone. Both are on CTS push/pull switches to give me either coil or parallel and series options (thanks to Talk Basser Dabbler for all his help with the wiring!)
Here is a just terrible mock up of it, but I still haven't fully decided on the fretboard being maple or ebony, so I'll decide when the thing gets here!
Peace,
Rob.
In the past, inspired by the original JazzRay from Fender32, I made a couple of Status necked JazzRays:
But this time I am making a Precision bodied 'Ray (also from Warmoth) and using a Nordstrand MM4 quad coil pickup. I have tried Seymour Duncans (ceramic and alnico) in the past, but this pickup is really close to my original Stingrays and gives me noiseless, split, single coil options.
I never remember to change the batteries in my Stringrays and once had to replace the entire battery compartment, (thanks to a leaking battery) so this bass is all passive with only a volume and tone. Both are on CTS push/pull switches to give me either coil or parallel and series options (thanks to Talk Basser Dabbler for all his help with the wiring!)
Here is a just terrible mock up of it, but I still haven't fully decided on the fretboard being maple or ebony, so I'll decide when the thing gets here!
Peace,
Rob.
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In honor of yesterday's Independence Day, I say unto the Forum…
The British Are Coming!
The British Are Coming!!
One if by Volume!
Two if by Treble!
Three if by Ba…ah, forget it. 'Tis a silly analogy anyway.
After getting one of those annoyingransom notes orange-paper notices from the Post Office, I took possession of my ProBass/Retrovibe Stinger preamp. Many thanks to @Bassbadger for this crucial "piece of the puzzle", not to mention getting it out and across The Pond so quickly!
It's funny, though…I figured the pots would have a center detent, which these do not. Is that how the vintage 'Rays were made?, with a 0 to 10 configuration rather than a -5 to +5? Also, I'm assuming the 3M double-sided stickum is to mount the circuit board to the flat side of the interior routing, yes? Anyway, more pics…
The British Are Coming!
The British Are Coming!!
One if by Volume!
Two if by Treble!
Three if by Ba…ah, forget it. 'Tis a silly analogy anyway.
After getting one of those annoying
It's funny, though…I figured the pots would have a center detent, which these do not. Is that how the vintage 'Rays were made?, with a 0 to 10 configuration rather than a -5 to +5? Also, I'm assuming the 3M double-sided stickum is to mount the circuit board to the flat side of the interior routing, yes? Anyway, more pics…
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Also, I'm not quite sure if they operate with flat response at the center anyway. If I recall, the preamp has some funky controls.
Everyone else is posting pics of their Stingray hybrids, so here's a pic of my P-Ray, recently finished in Olympic White for that extra dose of Fender-ness:
Malak
Looks like a cool build! One caveat:
I used some of the Minwax Polyshades on a furniture project, and it does not hold up well. The stain is held in suspension in the Poly, so it never really penetrates into the wood. Any chips go right back to bare wood, and it chips really easily. I think Ibanez used a commercial version of Polyshades on the SR500 mahogany basses, and it wears through pretty much universally from normal thumb anchor or pick wear. Avoid this stuff if possible unless you want a relic finish PDQ!
Looks like a cool build! One caveat:
I used some of the Minwax Polyshades on a furniture project, and it does not hold up well. The stain is held in suspension in the Poly, so it never really penetrates into the wood. Any chips go right back to bare wood, and it chips really easily. I think Ibanez used a commercial version of Polyshades on the SR500 mahogany basses, and it wears through pretty much universally from normal thumb anchor or pick wear. Avoid this stuff if possible unless you want a relic finish PDQ!
Wow! Thank you so much, Gil! That's super-helpful to know ahead of time!!
I was considering giving it an extra clear-coat for extra protection. Now, I'd say it's a sure-thing.
I might lay down a layer of stain first. Minwax may not make a straight-up Bombay Mahogany stain, but they have some colors that could work as a good, foundational base coat. I'll experiment on some scraps of wood I have laying around to figure out which works best.
With all that in mind, it will probably end up being a layer of pre-stain wood conditioner, a base-coat of stain, two or more layers of PolyShades and a layer or two of Wipe-On Poly.
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Wipe on poly is rather thin. I'd be looking to double (or more) the number of coats. I guess it's something you can make a judgement on after each coat is applied. You tend to know if it needs more ....
And keep in mind that oil based poly does yellow slightly over time, which can be a good or bad thing depending on the look you're going for. Water based poly doesn't yellow.
And keep in mind that oil based poly does yellow slightly over time, which can be a good or bad thing depending on the look you're going for. Water based poly doesn't yellow.
BIG-TIME UPDATE!!
The big, brown truck dropped off a little, brown box today!
Hardware and Neck "Fitting" Test…
In short, everything fits like a dream!
One other thing to note is the bridge. I decided to go with a Gotoh 201B-4 bridge. What can I say? I have a weakness for Cosmo Black (aka: smoked chrome, black nickel, etc…)! drool Plus, the screw holes it leaves behind should be compatible with a great number of Fender-style bridges, should I ever decide to switch things up.Sadly, I cannot find a matching Stratocaster jack. The black one I already have is nice, but it's finish is a little dull. If I can't find a smoked chrome jack, I should have no problem finding a black one with a shinier finish. (revised in post #101)
The Jazz knobs aren't necessarily a done-deal. I haven't decided on which to go with, but I've seen some smoked chrome knobs with position-indicator dots that are rather promising. Whichever I ultimately go with, it will need some kind of position-indicator, what with the preamp's pots having no center detent.
Oh, and I must give a bit shout-out to Philadelphia Luthier Tools & Supplies, not only for having that cool-ass bridge in stock, but for getting it to me in a mere two days! Certainly, being only thirty or so miles away helped, but they sure as hell didn't drag their feet getting it shipped out.
As far as finishing the body goes, I still need to do some experimenting on some scrap wood before I even consider going forward. Unfortunately, I've hit a bit of a delay. I had a considerable wipe-out on my bicycle last weekend. It's nothing life-threatening, but my forearms and knees are pretty scraped up (i.e.: I managed to get my arms up in time, sparing my head, face and chest any damage!), so standing for long periods of time is uncomfortable.
For obvious reasons, I want to do this free from as much distraction as possible, so I get it right the first time.
On the finishing-front, I have a question for experienced and/or inventive members. I need to hang the body up while applying the coats of pre-treatments, stain and clear coat. The best place for me to do this would be on a big, steel work table my wife has for her various craft-works. I need some kind of hanging rack that will keep the body at my chest and head level. My first thought runs towards a garment rack like this. The other thing I need is something to hang the body from that's strong enough to keep it aloft, but won't get in the way during application and drying. Any thoughts?
The big, brown truck dropped off a little, brown box today!
Hardware and Neck "Fitting" Test…
In short, everything fits like a dream!
One other thing to note is the bridge. I decided to go with a Gotoh 201B-4 bridge. What can I say? I have a weakness for Cosmo Black (aka: smoked chrome, black nickel, etc…)! drool Plus, the screw holes it leaves behind should be compatible with a great number of Fender-style bridges, should I ever decide to switch things up.
The Jazz knobs aren't necessarily a done-deal. I haven't decided on which to go with, but I've seen some smoked chrome knobs with position-indicator dots that are rather promising. Whichever I ultimately go with, it will need some kind of position-indicator, what with the preamp's pots having no center detent.
Oh, and I must give a bit shout-out to Philadelphia Luthier Tools & Supplies, not only for having that cool-ass bridge in stock, but for getting it to me in a mere two days!
Certainly, being only thirty or so miles away helped, but they sure as hell didn't drag their feet getting it shipped out.As far as finishing the body goes, I still need to do some experimenting on some scrap wood before I even consider going forward. Unfortunately, I've hit a bit of a delay. I had a considerable wipe-out on my bicycle last weekend. It's nothing life-threatening, but my forearms and knees are pretty scraped up (i.e.: I managed to get my arms up in time, sparing my head, face and chest any damage!), so standing for long periods of time is uncomfortable.
For obvious reasons, I want to do this free from as much distraction as possible, so I get it right the first time.On the finishing-front, I have a question for experienced and/or inventive members. I need to hang the body up while applying the coats of pre-treatments, stain and clear coat. The best place for me to do this would be on a big, steel work table my wife has for her various craft-works. I need some kind of hanging rack that will keep the body at my chest and head level. My first thought runs towards a garment rack like this. The other thing I need is something to hang the body from that's strong enough to keep it aloft, but won't get in the way during application and drying. Any thoughts?
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Hi Malak!
I just love receiving those 'little, brown boxes' too! Everything looks really good. Interesting design with the Strat jackplate, I have fitted these to all my top routed guit@rs and was contemplating doing the same on my latest Warmoth bass, but in the end didn't bother. I don't like side mounted jacks as they make the instrument more difficult to place in a stand on stage (or at home) with the lead inserted.
I can't remember which finish you are now going to use, but on my natural bodied Warmoths I have had great results using Tru-Oil and then wiping it off almost immediately after applying it. Like this I was able to literally rest the body on cardboard out in the sun to let it dry. I just wanted a protective matt finish though. Maybe you could use an opened up wire coat hanger threaded through one of the neck mount holes and hung over something?
Sorry to hear of your bike accident.
Peace,
Rob.
I just love receiving those 'little, brown boxes' too! Everything looks really good. Interesting design with the Strat jackplate, I have fitted these to all my top routed guit@rs and was contemplating doing the same on my latest Warmoth bass, but in the end didn't bother. I don't like side mounted jacks as they make the instrument more difficult to place in a stand on stage (or at home) with the lead inserted.
I can't remember which finish you are now going to use, but on my natural bodied Warmoths I have had great results using Tru-Oil and then wiping it off almost immediately after applying it. Like this I was able to literally rest the body on cardboard out in the sun to let it dry. I just wanted a protective matt finish though. Maybe you could use an opened up wire coat hanger threaded through one of the neck mount holes and hung over something?
Sorry to hear of your bike accident.
Peace,
Rob.
Hi Malak!
I just love receiving those 'little, brown boxes' too! Everything looks really good. Interesting design with the Strat jackplate, I have fitted these to all my top routed guit@rs and was contemplating doing the same on my latest Warmoth bass, but in the end didn't bother. I don't like side mounted jacks as they make the instrument more difficult to place in a stand on stage (or at home) with the lead inserted.
I can't remember which finish you are now going to use, but on my natural bodied Warmoths I have had great results using Tru-Oil and then wiping it off almost immediately after applying it. Like this I was able to literally rest the body on cardboard out in the sun to let it dry. I just wanted a protective matt finish though. Maybe you could use an opened up wire coat hanger threaded through one of the neck mount holes and hung over something?
Sorry to hear of your bike accident.
Peace,
Rob.
Thanks for the kind words, Rob.
I'm very happy the shop-dudes at Warmoth were able to pull off the Strat-jack route, despite the additional cost (about a 28% bump to the total cost). It's one of the rather unique touches that makes the Aerodyne stand apart from all of the other rank-and-file basses out there. That, plus the 'Dyne being my first-ever bass, compelled me to add it to the design.
On a related note, I'm beginning to feel a bit of paranoia regarding the wood's thickness around the jack route. The knob routes usually only need to deal with the torque from someone adjusting the knobs, but the wood around the jack will be subjected to a lot of pushing and pulling. It's making me wonder if it might buckle some day. The thought of some internal reinforcement comes to mind…perhaps some kind of bracing that surrounds the jack route and can be screwed into the sidewalls of the chamber.
I still plan on doing the Minwax Bombay Mahogany PolyShades finish. I picked up a similar color stain (Sedona Red, I believe) for a potential undercoat. Once I'm good enough to be on my feet for longer periods of time, I'll see how the PolyShade looks with and without the stain underneath.
Hi Malak!Thanks for the kind words, Rob.
I'm very happy the shop-dudes at Warmoth were able to pull off the Strat-jack route, despite the additional cost (about a 28% bump to the total cost). It's one of the rather unique touches that makes the Aerodyne stand apart from all of the other rank-and-file basses out there. That, plus the 'Dyne being my first-ever bass, compelled me to add it to the design.
On a related note, I'm beginning to feel a bit of paranoia regarding the wood's thickness around the jack route. The knob routes usually only need to deal with the torque from someone adjusting the knobs, but the wood around the jack will be subjected to a lot of pushing and pulling. It's making me wonder if it might buckle some day. The thought of some internal reinforcement comes to mind…perhaps some kind of bracing that surrounds the jack route and can be screwed into the sidewalls of the chamber.
I still plan on doing the Minwax Bombay Mahogany PolyShades finish. I picked up a similar color stain for a potential undercoat. Once I'm good enough to be on my feet for longer periods of time, I'll see how the PolyShade looks with and without the stain underneath.
Seriously, don't worry about it.
I have 4 guit@rs exactly like yours and none have ever moved or needed extra reinforcement.
I cut and dremelled the oval shaped cut out for 3 of them and placed it so far back into the body cavity that the two outer mounting holes are screwed into solid un-routed body wood.
However, on the fourth one, I let the guys at Warmoth do the cut out, being that it was to be positioned in the 'traditional' Str@t place. As a result, the two mounting screws only pass through the thinner top wood. These screws actually stick out a little bit too, but this still doesn't make any difference to structural integrity.
With a Str@t jackplate you are only pulling and pushing a lead diagonally, so the mounting screws never take the brunt of vertical force. Even then, a Jazz Bass control panel copes under worse force!
If I were still worried, I would wick a drop or two of super / crazy glue into the holes before screwing the plate down (to harden the wood fibres and prevent the screws from stripping) but this won't be at all necessary IMO. The top won't buckle for sure -it's too thick.
Peace,
Rob.
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Oh how I love a blocked and bound Jazz neck. That's going to be sweet with the reddish-brown body color. Warmouth parts are pricey, but its worth it, very well made. The strat jack is one of my favorite features on the Aerodyne, its just more practical and easy to use than side jacks. Pickguard? How's the balance? I've had some neck heavy jazz basses, but that can usually be cured with lightweight tuners.
Thanks, Gil! Since swamp ash usually has an excellent grain, plus it costs just as much as an alder one, I planned on going without a pickguard with this project. Originally, I was thinking of going with a Jaco-esque layout (control plate/no guard), but Warmoth doesn't give you the "Music Man Sweet Spot" option on a front-routed Jazz body. In this case, I'm actually glad for it, otherwise I may never have hit upon the Strat-jack idea.
I don't know how it'll balance, since I haven't bolted the neck and hardware down yet. It might end up a bit neck-divey, but if it comes to that, I'll get a set of Ultralites. Plus, I already have an HE6C-1/2" (Hipshot Ultralite Drop-D tuner) that can replace the chunkier BT2. Swapping out the largish, vintage-style tuners on the Classic '70s Jazz neck would shave considerable weight off the headstock.
(re: not very light…kinda chunky
)
