Rattle Can Refinish Club

[Nocturnal]

Please tell me a heat gun didnt take hours.

It depends on the finish that you are trying to remove. Some are pretty easy but others.......:scowl:

 

[Brendan5]

Here's a headstock I did. The paint has some orange peel that I didn't sand out though.

 

[Stumbo]

Me and my sister were trying to paint a bass body but got alot of runs and want to do it again.
We just lightly sanded the finish and spray painted over it.
Areas that were good looked very nice, but want to just strip the paint and underneath finish and start from scratch.
It was just a typical glossy tobacco burst (ugh) finish.
Can we use a hair dryer or do we have to use a heat gun.

From the Reranch website:

Stripping

Before removing the old finish consider photographing the instrument from various views. Close ups can also be helpful. Not only are photos the best way to back up your bragging rights on a job well done but once the job is completed the photos will allow you to be certain that the patterns of shading and replacement of items such as pickguards are accurate.

Beware of the chemicals used in stripping! The chemicals are caustic. Always wear protective gloves and eyewear when using stripping materials. Also be aware that the chemicals involved can remove not only finish but dissolve plastic bindings as well. They can also damage labels and stain the interior of the instrument. The first step in finishing (after protecting yourself) is to protect all vulnerable areas of the instrument. Cover the bindings with paper tape to protect them. (Plastic tape may melt). Taping the bindings will also make clean-up easier. Before using paper tape be certain that the tape will not pull off the original finish. Paper tape also tends to adhere more tightly the longer it is left on a surface. If in doubt, do not tape over any finish you do not plan to remove. Automotive color supply stores offer an 1/8" fine line tape that will cover most top bindings in one pass (sides in two) and is thin enough to navigate the tight radius curves. (You may find that the waist is best taped with a separate strip and then over taped). 3M manufactures a tape which performs this function well. The 3M brand part number is #233.

To protect the interior of the instrument, stuff newspapers into the cavity through the sound hole(s). Tear the sheets into 1/4 size pages to make removal easier. Stuff more than you think is needed. If not sufficiently packed the paper can shift and leave open areas. Ruining an otherwise clean interior or label is inexcusable.

When stripping always try the most forgiving stripping medium first. Lacquer reducer will remove many finishes, is less of a danger to you ( be sure that your work area is well ventilated and that there are no open flames in the area) and is less likely to attack the bindings. It is, however, slower to work than the "Strip Ease" paste type of remover. Therefore, a combination method, while not the fastest, may be the best.

Use a "Strip Ease" type stripper in the areas which are not close to the vulnerable bindings. Paint the stripper onto the finish per the manufacturers instructions. After allowing the stripper to soften the finish, a 1/2" to 1" stiff paint brush can be used in a short "pushing" motion (as opposed to the pulling motion normally used when painting) to help lift the finish.

Fine (#0000) steel wool rinsed in water can also be used to remove the melted finish. An alternative to steel wool are the plastic mesh pads made by 3M expressly for stripping. Although more expensive they can be rinsed with water and reused.

Work from the inside of the area pushing out toward the binding. Wipe the end of the brush often being careful not to drop stripper on the "good" areas. When the area near the binding is reached (about an 1/2" away) use lacquer reducer for the remaining finish.

Paper towels moistened with reducer may work best for you. The work will be slower but potential for damage is reduced. Be aware that while not as caustic as "Strip Ease", lacquer reducer can still melt bindings if left in contact too long. Also, if you are planning to save the color of the original bindings then particular care is needed when the binding edge is reached. Be aware that if too much reducer is used it can seep under the protective tape and damage the bindings.

ALL of the old finish in the area to be refinished must be removed. If not removed the new stains will not evenly color. When all the finish is removed wipe the area clean with lacquer reducer. Then wipe the area with naphtha.

Should you ever have the unfortunate job of stripping a polyurethane finish, I have found only one chemical stripper which will remove poly; AirCraft Remover by Kleen Strip.

It can be found at most automotive paint supply stores. Be aware that should you decide to use A/R, it is deadly to plastic bindings. Protect the bindings and if possible strip with A/R only up to near the binding area and use lacquer thinner or sanding to remove the finish adjacent to the bindings.

One trick; on stubborn finishes, cover the area being stripped with a plastic garbage bag to prevent the stripper from evaporating. This will give the stripper a longer working time. Test the bag first to be sure that it is not attacked by the stripper although most bags do not seem to be affected.

 

[Im_telling_tim]

I tried but failed.

 

[shawshank72]

Thanks for the tips.

 

[shawshank72]

Just finished this up. Its not perfect but i didnt need it to be.

 

[TinIndian]

Just finished this up. Its not perfect but i didnt need it to be. View attachment 371548

That came out nice! Love the color!

 

[shawshank72]

That came out nice! Love the color!

Thank you.
Saw it in a canadian tire store and couldnt resist.

 

[Benberg]

my home made bass, I used a rattle can to finish it off!

 

[JACink]

^^You sir, have a lot of skill with a rattle can!! To be able to create that sort of spalted finish with a spray can!!! And those stripes on the neck!! What kind of nossle did you use??


(j.k; very very nice!)

 

[KingRazor]

my home made bass, I used a rattle can to finish it off!

That is some gorgeous wood right there.

 

[Benberg]

^^You sir, have a lot of skill with a rattle can!! To be able to create that sort of spalted finish with a spray can!!! And those stripes on the neck!! What kind of nossle did you use??


(j.k; very very nice!)

 

[JACink]

^^ Hahaha!! Touché!!!

 

[Basshappi]

Benberg, that bass is absolutely stunning!
Excellent job, congrats!

 

[jweber76]

I have an old Franken-strat that I recently rattle canned. I did a light relic job because this guitar has been with me for many many years and earned every one of her scrapes and dings. I wanted a new color and pickup config but didn't like the idea of covering up all her scars... The paint job isn't perfect but doesn't need to be. I made the guard myself and it is just a temp as the electronics are still in the development stage (nice way of saying "I'm not sure how I want it")

 

[blipndub]

Nice! Where did you get the repro Dano headstock logo?

Danelectro Right to Lefty Conversion.

 

[Snakeman1066]

ok guys here's the deal

I have a Mexican alder P Body finished off in Olympic White with a high gloss urethane coat

I want to spray my headstock to match!!

what is my best bet for matching the color as i know olympic white has a blue component to it...

Re-Ranch has Olympic white in Nitro ...but as i understand it if i cover this with a clear it tends to yellow

any suggestions?

Duplicolor Automotive paint maybe?

 

[JoeWPgh]

I don't think there's a magic bullet. To have the new paint match the old paint 20 years from now is a pig's guess. If that's a big concern, paint the body and the headstock at the same time.

 

[Snakeman1066]

fairly sure the MIM body is a polyurethane finish.... which is why i don't want to use nitro on headstock

 

[Snakeman1066]

ok well....I guess i'll go with the duplicolor then...