I second this! also thanks to everyone else that offers up ideas freely!
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Router Planing Fixtures
- Thread starter Bruce Johnson
- Start date
I second this! also thanks to everyone else that offers up ideas freely!
I made up another important part for the Super Router Planer Fixture. An aluminum base plate to mount the big Porter Cable router. The frame of the bridge will be made of 1" MDF. If I mounted the router's base to the top side of the 1" MDF, it would limit the amount of vertical travel of the router. This big 2" router bit doesn't have a very long shank, and I wouldn't want it to. So I'm mounting the router to a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum plate, which will then be mounted flush with the bottom of the bridge. That gains me an extra 3/4" of travel. I think the bit face will be able to adjust from flush with the bottom of the bridge to about 1 1/4" below it. That should be enough for most jobs.
I dug through my pile of leftover aluminum plates and found this one. From some old electronics lab project, it's just the right size. It has a notch up in one side, but so what? It's here and it's free. This is exactly why I save old junk machine parts and raw material scraps....to build new machines!
I carefully laid out the pattern of holes for the countersunk screws to bolt it to the router base, and four holes in the corners for mounting to the bridge. I drilled and countersunk the holes, then bandsawed out the center hole. Here it is, a 15 minute job. It took longer than that to find the plate in my scrap pile.
And here it is attached to the base of the router.
The next custom part is some metal lathe work: A long threaded T-handle that will screw onto the threaded up-stop. That will allow the depth of cut to be finely adjusted from the top of the router.
I dug through my pile of leftover aluminum plates and found this one. From some old electronics lab project, it's just the right size. It has a notch up in one side, but so what? It's here and it's free. This is exactly why I save old junk machine parts and raw material scraps....to build new machines!
I carefully laid out the pattern of holes for the countersunk screws to bolt it to the router base, and four holes in the corners for mounting to the bridge. I drilled and countersunk the holes, then bandsawed out the center hole. Here it is, a 15 minute job. It took longer than that to find the plate in my scrap pile.
And here it is attached to the base of the router.
The next custom part is some metal lathe work: A long threaded T-handle that will screw onto the threaded up-stop. That will allow the depth of cut to be finely adjusted from the top of the router.
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Hello Bruce ! Tried to send you a PM about a question. I just posted a problem I’m having and was hoping to get your opinion. My post is in the luthiers forum under “is it mold”. Thanks, always love your in depth posts including this one.
More work building the Super Router Planing Fixture:
On the lathe, I made up a threaded T-handle assembly that screws down onto the original threaded rod of the up-stop on the PC plunge router. Now I can release the back lock and turn the T-handle to crank the router up and down. The threaded rod was 3/8"-16, so one turn of the handle lowers the router 1/16". The T-handle assembly is made from stainless and brass rod stock. Another reason why life is better with a metal lathe.
I sawed out the main parts for the bridge and screwed them together. A few more parts of it to make up. It's made from 1" MDF and it's heavy!
The hole in the front is a window, which I positioned so I can hopefully look down in at an angle and see the cutter. Depending on how the dust collection goes, I may cover it with a piece of Lexan.
On the lathe, I made up a threaded T-handle assembly that screws down onto the original threaded rod of the up-stop on the PC plunge router. Now I can release the back lock and turn the T-handle to crank the router up and down. The threaded rod was 3/8"-16, so one turn of the handle lowers the router 1/16". The T-handle assembly is made from stainless and brass rod stock. Another reason why life is better with a metal lathe.
I sawed out the main parts for the bridge and screwed them together. A few more parts of it to make up. It's made from 1" MDF and it's heavy!
The hole in the front is a window, which I positioned so I can hopefully look down in at an angle and see the cutter. Depending on how the dust collection goes, I may cover it with a piece of Lexan.
Looking good. Am I right in thinking you've designed it so the router doesn't move, the whole bridge moves? Most of these I've seen the router slides back and forth on the bridge.
Yes, I'll be mounting the router solidly to the bridge, and the whole bridge slides side to side. The bridge is wide enough that the cutter can cover the whole width between the rails. My other one works that way too. I like this design for rigidity. This bridge is 36" wide, and the maximum surfacing width between the rails is 16".
On my earlier one, I used a bar with pins to guide the bridge in neat straight lines down the rails. This one will be a little fancier; an aluminum bar with notches milled in it.
By the way, last night I was reading back through this thread, and looking at the vacuum hold-down fixtures that a couple of you guys have been working with. Hmmmm......
I'm picturing a vacuum hold down fixture that slides into this machine, made specifically for surfacing fingerboard blanks. That would be really useful. Two side-by-side rows of holes for holding down fingerboards. One is smooth MDF; the other has a soft rubber surface with the holes. Lay a rough bandsawn board down on the rubber surface first, cut the top surface flat. Then flip it over onto the smooth surface to cut the second surface. Hmmm...
I'm picturing a vacuum hold down fixture that slides into this machine, made specifically for surfacing fingerboard blanks. That would be really useful. Two side-by-side rows of holes for holding down fingerboards. One is smooth MDF; the other has a soft rubber surface with the holes. Lay a rough bandsawn board down on the rubber surface first, cut the top surface flat. Then flip it over onto the smooth surface to cut the second surface. Hmmm...
Make it swiss cheese and put the holes on both the bottom and the top! Then you can lock it in place with the same vacuum suction!
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Make it swiss cheese and put the holes on both the bottom and the top! Then you can either lock it in place with the same vacuum suction!
I see what you are thinking, and that's a cool idea. In this case I think I'd rather have the fixture bolted down inside the rails.
The configuration in my brain is to make two separate long narrow vacuum chambers, side by side. Sticking out the end of the fixture, beyond the ends of the rails, will be two separate vacuum ports that a hose from the shop-vac can plug into. Then I can quickly switch the vacuum on and off by switching the hose from one port to the other. Or maybe build in a shuttle valve.
Adding more parts to the bridge for the Super Router Planer Fixture. I built up the MDF blocks that mount the aluminum base plate on the bottom.
Test fitting the router, and checking that I can look down through the window and see the cutter bit. I don't know how useful this will be, but I figured I may as well build it in now, rather than wish I had it later.
Test fitting the router, and checking that I can look down through the window and see the cutter bit. I don't know how useful this will be, but I figured I may as well build it in now, rather than wish I had it later.
do you ever consider adding some around the blade opening, just the slight nub so that if you are working on a piece that is almost as wide as the working area it would prevent you from accident going too far and into the rail? I suppose you could also put them further out so that it catches on the rail opposite the cut if you are getting too close...
Not sure I'm making sense as I don't know I have the correct terms in my vocabulary...
Yes! Good thinking. I was about to cut and fit the Safety Nubs when I ran out of energy last night. They fit into those two notches at the front and back edges on the bottom. They are blocks of wood, a little wider than the cutter, which stick down below the router base. They will hit the side aluminum rails and make absolutely sure that the cutter can't.
And, of course, Cutter and The Safety Nubs could be a band name.
Just remember me when you look up into the night sky.. (too many Mad Max references? I didn’t think you could have too many Mad Max references!)
More work on the bridge for the Super Router Planer. I added two end plates which have feet sticking down. Check fitting it on the rails, with the router installed. This bridge is heavy! That's part of the reason for the end plates; making it easier to lift.
A look at it on the rails. Because the end plates are there, I think I'm going to add the Safety Nubs at the outer ends, just inside of the end plates. Simple blocks of wood to make sure the cutter can never touch the aluminum rails.
Here's the reason for the feet on the end plates. When not in use, I can turn the bridge 90 degrees and park it in between the rails. More compact in the shop.
Here's a better look down through the window at the cutter.
Not much left before it's ready to test and go into service. I need to add a pair of big carved handles on the front. I think I'm going to get a sheet of 1/8" Slippery UHMW plastic and fit it on the bottom surface of the bridge, to make it slide a little easier on the rails. I need to make the aluminum notched bar to guide it in straight rows. A good safe electrical switch on the left side to turn the router on and off. A sliding depth gauge. A dust collector hood box. And start on the holding fixtures to go inside. Just a few things.
A look at it on the rails. Because the end plates are there, I think I'm going to add the Safety Nubs at the outer ends, just inside of the end plates. Simple blocks of wood to make sure the cutter can never touch the aluminum rails.
Here's the reason for the feet on the end plates. When not in use, I can turn the bridge 90 degrees and park it in between the rails. More compact in the shop.
Here's a better look down through the window at the cutter.
Not much left before it's ready to test and go into service. I need to add a pair of big carved handles on the front. I think I'm going to get a sheet of 1/8" Slippery UHMW plastic and fit it on the bottom surface of the bridge, to make it slide a little easier on the rails. I need to make the aluminum notched bar to guide it in straight rows. A good safe electrical switch on the left side to turn the router on and off. A sliding depth gauge. A dust collector hood box. And start on the holding fixtures to go inside. Just a few things.
More details on the bridge assembly:
Here are the legendary Safety Nubs, installed. They are the wood blocks just inboard of the feet at the ends of the bridge. They will contact the rails, and keep the cutter from possibly hitting the aluminum on the other side.
Making the handles: I started with a big block of hard maple from the cutoffs racks. Layout, bored holes, bandsawed the cutouts, routed the cutouts with a big radius bit;
Then bandsawed the outsides:
Then I shaped the outsides of the handles on the edge sander. I didn't spend too much time making them perfect. But they are comfortable; no sharp edges or splinters.
And here are the handles mounted on the bridge. Inboard of the right handle is the electrical box for the switch, where I can pop it with my right thumb.
And this just came in from McMasters: A 12" x 36" sheet of 1/8" thick black UHMW Super Slippery plastic. I'll be cutting and mounting it on the bottom surface of the bridge, so it will slide like a greased whatever on the rails.
I'll be ready to fire this monster up in another day or two. I've got jobs waiting for it.
Here are the legendary Safety Nubs, installed. They are the wood blocks just inboard of the feet at the ends of the bridge. They will contact the rails, and keep the cutter from possibly hitting the aluminum on the other side.
Making the handles: I started with a big block of hard maple from the cutoffs racks. Layout, bored holes, bandsawed the cutouts, routed the cutouts with a big radius bit;
Then bandsawed the outsides:
Then I shaped the outsides of the handles on the edge sander. I didn't spend too much time making them perfect. But they are comfortable; no sharp edges or splinters.
And here are the handles mounted on the bridge. Inboard of the right handle is the electrical box for the switch, where I can pop it with my right thumb.
And this just came in from McMasters: A 12" x 36" sheet of 1/8" thick black UHMW Super Slippery plastic. I'll be cutting and mounting it on the bottom surface of the bridge, so it will slide like a greased whatever on the rails.
I'll be ready to fire this monster up in another day or two. I've got jobs waiting for it.
