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Schecter Diamond P 5 (NBD)

I think I need to email this thread to Schecter now. At LEAST they could give me some SWAG. ;)

Hey J

Funny thing their swag is operated by a third party company that does about 40 different companies actually.
 
I'm way overdue but I sent the pickups lasts night that was to my second DP5 to Fralin for something completely different. I'm actually going the opposite of the stock and under winding them.

Should be interesting.
 
I have no gas and my basses are all set (with one coming next month) but if I ever wanted to get anything else just for giggles it would be another Schecter.

I would love to try a C5.
 
C-5 you say?
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Thank you for sharing...

The other day I got a chance to try a few other Schecter models (all 5s) The Stiletto, Raiden Special-5 and a C5.

To be honest the one I like the best out of those 3 was the cheapest one :hiding: The Raiden

I can just imagine that bass with a Ebony board and dual-coil Norstrands that 2 coil cuts (one in each) so you could shut off the insides coils and leave the outer ones on...That would be pretty kick @ss in plain English.


You could get 3 (at least 3killer tones)
-Full and modern with all the coils on.

-You bastardized J bass that has a bit of 70 vibe with that coil being so close to the bridge.

-Or a Schecters version of coping a Lakland type of tone if you just cut the coil on the neck pickup.:)

Wow your know your a dork that your own TB after a early gig. LOL
 
Well I think I've figured out what was causing the overtone issue. I usually really push the the TUBE pre on my STM-900 by really CRANKING the gain. Well last night I dis-engaged the boost button, and ran it completely clean. I have to say I really liked the sound much better, and NO OVERTONES! I actually liked it better with my SR5 as well. Seemed a little more refined.

So it looks like the Labellas will be staying.
 
Well I think I've figured out what was causing the overtone issue. I usually really push the the TUBE pre on my STM-900 by really CRANKING the gain. Well last night I dis-engaged the boost button, and ran it completely clean. I have to say I really liked the sound much better, and NO OVERTONES! I actually liked it better with my SR5 as well. Seemed a little more refined.

So it looks like the Labellas will be staying.

Nice...Tweaking this stuff out can be fun.
I did a Roots/America session yesterday (the music was well...so so...:hiding:)but my bass tone through the REDDI was just killer for it. :D
 
The thing I found with the Diamond P4 is that it's simply on par with instruments much more expensive than it is. At the store where I usually hang out, I've compared the build quality of those to basses twice the price and they were mostly on par or better, with few cases where it wasn't so (the EB Bongo and Ibby prestige outright killed it). However, that's the first impression obviously.
 
The thing I found with the Diamond P4 is that it's simply on par with instruments much more expensive than it is. At the store where I usually hang out, I've compared the build quality of those to basses twice the price and they were mostly on par or better, with few cases where it wasn't so (the EB Bongo and Ibby prestige outright killed it). However, that's the first impression obviously.

I've got a DP4 in blue .

I have no complaints at all .
 
I think I am considering FLIPPING the bridge pup so that the SPLIT poles will be further from the bridge. NOW when you pull the knob the set of poles closest to the bridge are active. I would like it to be the poles closer to the neck. Anyone think this is DUMB/DIFFICULT?

as long as the wire running to the pots is long enough, i dont see it being too difficult.


*edit*
another idea is having it rewired with a series/single/parallel switch