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Show your Bill Fitzmaurice cab

I just noticed a pair of Bill's cabs on display at the Duratex website.

Here's a link to a website that shows a couple of BFM cabs, as well as a few others with different colors...

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and a link to a website with some application questions and answers...

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By the way, lots of great info on your webpage, fdeck. I downloaded and briefly looked at your spec pdf's. Most of them made my head swim!
 
So, I'm looking to build a new PA sub to replace a falling-apart enclosure that is loaded with a Delta 15A. Looks like the Titan 30/36/39 all use 10's or 12's, and that the only 15" cab that would be close to what I'm looking for is the Omni 15 without a tweeter. Am I correct? Are there any alternatives, given that I have little interest in response above 140Hz?

I know the T48 has a 15" but it is HUGGEEE... is there no way of building a 15" horn-loaded sub any smaller than that?
 
So, I'm looking to build a new PA sub to replace a falling-apart enclosure that is loaded with a Delta 15A. Looks like the Titan 30/36/39 all use 10's or 12's, and that the only 15" cab that would be close to what I'm looking for is the Omni 15 without a tweeter. Am I correct? Are there any alternatives, given that I have little interest in response above 140Hz?

I know the T48 has a 15" but it is HUGGEEE... is there no way of building a 15" horn-loaded sub any smaller than that?
Suggest you take your question to my forum at [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
BTW, where performance is concerned the size of the driver is not what matters, it's the design of the cabinet that houses it that defines response and output.
 
Here's my Omni 12 210 sub next to my P bass, just so you can get an idea of it's size. I built it for our PA use, not as a bass cab, and we love it. We're using it mainly for bass drum and it gives a noticeable THUMP to our sound. Planning on building some PA mains next.

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Suggest you take your question to my forum at [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
BTW, where performance is concerned the size of the driver is not what matters, it's the design of the cabinet that houses it that defines response and output.

I'll take the question over there. I want to use a 15" because I have a decent Eminence 15" speaker just chilling in a POS cabinet, and I'd like to build a new cab for it instead of trying to sell it and buying a 10 or a 12 for a new sub.

Edit: "internal server error" when trying to register on your forums.
 
Here is my BFM Cab - an Omni 10.5 Airhead, loaded with the Eminence Deltalite II 2510 and my Ampeg B2-R head (looking to replace this in the future, however). The inputs are a Neutrik locking 1/4" jack and a Neutrik NL4 (SpeakOn). The tweeters are set up to run either with 4 tweeters on, 8 tweeters on, or no tweeters. I'm very impressed with the cabinet and its output, and I'm glad I made the switchable tweeters as everyone on Bill's Forum suggested.

My father and I will be building an Extension Cabinet that matches this one later this month. Stacked they will make 4 ohms (and 500W RMS of power handling!). They will also be able to double as PA speakers, as they will both have the tweeters. The cost, when we complete the second cabinet, will be well under $500 for the pair (and that's mainly because the Deltalites were $110 a piece!)

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The bass player specific cabs are the Omni15 for the optimal full range, Omni12 is its little brother. The O12 can use the 3012LF, two BP102, or a Delta 12LF (why bother). Omni10 is very compact with a vintage bottom end. IMO, best as a stage monitor.

T39/DR200 isn't my favorite combination for electric bass.
It has to be biamped, requires a crossover around 125~135 Hz for the DR200, and is two separate boxes. DR200 is a difficult build. This is a lot of fiddling, and hardly a plug 'n play rig.

My measurements show a T39 produces a real 95 SPL at 40 Hz, 1w/1m which rises toward 100 Hz. As with all small (compromise) horns, they do much better in a herd. Four T39 flattens the response substantially, but at a significant cost in pack space. T39 and DR200 are pro PA boxes, and too much hassle for electric bass.

Build the Omin15 Tall model. Recess the baffle 1" so you can add a full grille. Then it will look like an 8x10 and nobody will rag you for DIY. This one has the biggest bottom and is still full range. The upright design is transport friendly, and it makes a whole lot of noise. It is entirely self contained, and is plug 'n play.
 
Greenboy seems to endorse these designs. BFM seems to endorse his Fearless line of direct radiator cabs. Which one should i go with? What's the biggest difference i would notice between the two?
Greenboy's cabs are direct radiators, mine are horn loaded. IMHO if you have to settle for a direct radiator cab you're best off with one that's got a premium woofer and a midrange driver, and as those are exceedingly rare from the usual sources at affordable prices Greenboy's cabs are a viable alternative.
But they aren't horn loaded. :D
 
The bass player specific cabs are the Omni15 for the optimal full range...
Then it will look like an 8x10 and nobody will rag you for DIY.

I don't know anyone who would rag anybody for DIY.:confused:
Quite the opposite actually. I'm sorry you live around such dunderheads.:rollno:
I would love to see someone rag on me...haha...
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I actually like the idea of a sub and another cab but that omni 15 is pretty sweet. I like this build: OMNI15

As far as difficulty the more difficult the better. I'm looking for a FUN summer project and I have the skills. Any other combos that are better suited for bass? My main thing is I'd like the dimensions to line up. i.e. front to back and side to side.
 
I actually like the idea of a sub and another cab but that omni 15 is pretty sweet. I like this build: OMNI15

Any other combos that are better suited for bass? My main thing is I'd like the dimensions to line up. i.e. front to back and side to side.

I have a DR280, 99% finished which will be sitting on a T39. A little excessive but none the less.:D

My next build after that will be a Omni10 Airhead 3 rack space and a Omni 10 bottom cab natural finish, black hardware.