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SPECTOR® Club - Part 59

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lee, congrats on the endorsement!
Johnsonabq, awesome, just awesome!
very cool to hear the pin router explained as well. have always been curious about those machines. I understand they are pretty dangerous to operate as well.

They can be. But I was standing just off the shoulder of the guy at Spector who is in charge of running that machine. He's been working with Stuart 19 years now...

And he made it look easy and not dangerous. But you know it can be.

I'm not going to lie. I knew there was a single CNC machine in the shop and just assumed that it would be the routing machine.

To see Jim carefully connecting the very first Forte-6 to the machine and routing the bridge route, pickup routes... it blew me away.

THAT is the definition of "Made by Hand". Sure the drill bit is spinning. But Jim is moving the body on the tracked pin router template beneath it.

I then understood even more why changes are not going to be done over night and why it takes so long to build a single bass or guitar.

With bit changes, etc... it took about 45 minutes to do the three top body routes. But they were perfect. And they were done by a human being and not a computer controlled machine.
 
For those of you playing with Wimbish neck profiles, do you find it difficult to quickly adjust to the more standard size Spector necks?

Finger memory. Muscle memory. The thing that happens when your brain hard-wires the controls for certain repetitive motions into the synapses between itself and the muscles used in the motion.

For some people this is a bigger issue than for others. I know some musicians who cannot waver from the scale/fret formula and string spacing that they've practiced and trained on.

And for others it doesn't matter. I think this actually be more of a genetic/hereditary issue (or blessing) for people. Like balance. Some people have amazing balance because their brain doesn't rely on the information from their eyes to compensate for lateral motion. And other people the data from their eyes is translated into muscle reflexes and they overcompensate for any perceived motion. Making them easy to "tip off balance".

It just depends. Has this been an issue for you before?

I'd like to give one a try, but I worry that it will turn into a new addiction..... one that will have me selling all of my existing basses for ones with the Wimbish profile.

I will only order Wimbish neck basses from now on. I just honestly think the neck size and shape/profile is more comfortable. I'm tall and have "normal" hands. Not long spider fingers. So none of the neck sizes I've tried with Spector have been uncomfortable. They've been fine.

And I don't have any issues going between the Black Pearl and the Blue Dream. One having the standard NS-2 neck profile, the other having a Wimbish.

I like the neck on the Dream better. It feels better to me. That's all.
 
Has anyone had issue with a Hipshot D-tuner on Spectors?

Got one today for my NS-2A, but even when I think I have it set up properly it doesn't quite work right.

If I have my E-string tuned exact, then flip it down to D, I play the D and it is also perfectly in tune with no adjustment so that the adjustment is set properly, but when I flip it back up to E, the E is now a few cents sharp. I re-tune the E, flip down to D, the D is still perfect, but flipping back up same result. Anyone know how to fix this? (note by flipping I mean moving the lever to switch between teh normal note and the dropped down note)

Or is there like a tutorial video somewhere and I'm just doing something wrong?

Thanks guys
 
Has anyone had issue with a Hipshot D-tuner on Spectors?

Got one today for my NS-2A, but even when I think I have it set up properly it doesn't quite work right.

If I have my E-string tuned exact, then flip it down to D, I play the D and it is also perfectly in tune with no adjustment so that the adjustment is set properly, but when I flip it back up to E, the E is now a few cents sharp. I re-tune the E, flip down to D, the D is still perfect, but flipping back up same result. Anyone know how to fix this? (note by flipping I mean moving the lever to switch between teh normal note and the dropped down note)

Or is there like a tutorial video somewhere and I'm just doing something wrong?

Thanks guys

Go to their website and watch the video about how to set it up. It's all about how you do the initial tuning. I have D tuners on all of my basses with no trouble.
 
Has anyone had issue with a Hipshot D-tuner on Spectors?

Got one today for my NS-2A, but even when I think I have it set up properly it doesn't quite work right.

If I have my E-string tuned exact, then flip it down to D, I play the D and it is also perfectly in tune with no adjustment so that the adjustment is set properly, but when I flip it back up to E, the E is now a few cents sharp. I re-tune the E, flip down to D, the D is still perfect, but flipping back up same result. Anyone know how to fix this? (note by flipping I mean moving the lever to switch between teh normal note and the dropped down note)

Or is there like a tutorial video somewhere and I'm just doing something wrong?

Thanks guys

I've always used a shot of graphite powder in the E string channel in the nut. Seems to help....
 
Has anyone had issue with a Hipshot D-tuner on Spectors?

Got one today for my NS-2A, but even when I think I have it set up properly it doesn't quite work right.

If I have my E-string tuned exact, then flip it down to D, I play the D and it is also perfectly in tune with no adjustment so that the adjustment is set properly, but when I flip it back up to E, the E is now a few cents sharp. I re-tune the E, flip down to D, the D is still perfect, but flipping back up same result. Anyone know how to fix this? (note by flipping I mean moving the lever to switch between teh normal note and the dropped down note)

Or is there like a tutorial video somewhere and I'm just doing something wrong?

Thanks guys

+1 on the graphite, and whenever you flip the lever up or down, give the string a quick tug around the 12th fret to help "settle" it. I normally leave 3 or 4 wraps around the post on each string, but on my basses with the Hipshot D-tuners, I only leave 2 wraps around the E-string post - I believe this allows for less chance of string stretching, due to less available excess string behind the nut.
Once you get it dialed in, it should rarely require additional tweaking unless you change your string gauge or brand.
 
Has anyone had issue with a Hipshot D-tuner on Spectors?

Got one today for my NS-2A, but even when I think I have it set up properly it doesn't quite work right.

If I have my E-string tuned exact, then flip it down to D, I play the D and it is also perfectly in tune with no adjustment so that the adjustment is set properly, but when I flip it back up to E, the E is now a few cents sharp. I re-tune the E, flip down to D, the D is still perfect, but flipping back up same result. Anyone know how to fix this? (note by flipping I mean moving the lever to switch between teh normal note and the dropped down note)

Or is there like a tutorial video somewhere and I'm just doing something wrong?

Thanks guys

+1 on the graphite, and whenever you flip the lever up or down, give the string a quick tug around the 12th fret to help "settle" it. I normally leave 3 or 4 wraps around the post on each string, but on my basses with the Hipshot D-tuners, I only leave 2 wraps around the E-string post - I believe this allows for less chance of string stretching, due to less available excess string behind the nut.
Once you get it dialed in, it should rarely require additional tweaking unless you change your string gauge or brand.


I have them on all my four stringers. They work like a charm and I have never had an issue. Once you set them right they are good. I general do just a couple winds also, the graphite trick works well. Some people have had issues, sometimes you just need to work out the stiffness! Good luck, you will love it when you get it settled!:bassist:
 
correct! They provide almost the same protection as a hsc but with the convenience of a gig bag! I find several high profile musicians use them and higher end bass manufacturers send basses out with Mono's as their "original" case...the Low End in Murfreesboro is one.

http://www.monocase.com/
:cool: Which model are you using? It would seem most practical to buy the double bass bag for less cost than 2 bags. :D
The mono bags really are an outstanding product. The only thing I can think of that they wouldn't protect against is a very heavy weight falling across the top. I'm not sure a wood case could even protect from that...

Plus my double bag with two basses only weighs a little more than one bass in a wood case.

Not everyone has the same tastes, I realize, but I really think a lot of mono!
I believe a HSC would sustain a bigger hit but these Mono bags are pretty impressive! :) I'd consider them.
Here is the latest edition of Bass Gear Magazine featuring a review of the modern envisioning of the Kramer-Era NS-5.

This 34" scale 5-string features dual active EMG J pups and the USA 9v Spector Tone Circuit.

This edition of Bass Gear also features a full-page Spector ad that I shot and designed for Stuart and PJ. :D

Check it out!

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Very impressive Patrick! :cool: Awesome job! :)
We have a humble member of the club that got great news! I'd like to congratulate Senior Lee Presgrave (husky123 on here) for his newly found Spector endorsement! What a great humble human being that deserves to represent a great brand! Congrats Lee! You rule!
Lee, CONGRATULATIONS!!! :hyper: That's so awesome!
Just got home from my first practice with the Rex. Man it sounds good and that TonePump is hot ! Gotta back it off just a hair. It was a bit to gritty but theres no way I will play anything but Spectors from now on.:bassist:
NICE! :cool::bassist:
A question for Todd and/or Patrick (& ultimately PJ) - would it be possible to order a Coda Deluxe with EMG Jazz pickups & the US 9-volt circuit?

If not, which of available pickup/preamp combinations would come closest to this sound?

A sudden inspiration hit me today - a Coda Deluxe with quilted top in ultraviolet, BEM board with abalone, and the EMG/US-9-volt electronics. I think this package would deliver both the feel & sound I've been dreaming of in a Jazz-style bass....
This Codawould replace my Jazz, two Rics and Stingray, thinning down the herd.
That sounds delicious!!! Everything that I pickup and play my Coda5XL it just amazes me that it's a Jazz bass! :bassist: After rocking my NS-2000/5 while test driving the newly installed Haz copy preamp, I picked up my Coda...As soon as I place my left hand around the neck I'm in Heaven with the way it feels in comparative to the NS-2000/5. Unbelievable! The NS-2000/5 is no slouch though...especially with the new preamp. Both basses have there own tone and place. :bassist:
I don't think you'd be disappointed with the Aggie OBP 2...especially if you have the Woodstock shop install it as 18V! I'll be modding an extra battery into mine soon. :D
 
That sounds delicious!!! Everything that I pickup and play my Coda5XL it just amazes me that it's a Jazz bass! :bassist: After rocking my NS-2000/5 while test driving the newly installed Haz copy preamp, I picked up my Coda...As soon as I place my left hand around the neck I'm in Heaven with the way it feels in comparative to the NS-2000/5. Unbelievable! The NS-2000/5 is no slouch though...especially with the new preamp. Both basses have there own tone and place. :bassist:
I don't think you'd be disappointed with the Aggie OBP 2...especially if you have the Woodstock shop install it as 18V! I'll be modding an extra battery into mine soon. :D

If I buy a Coda Deluxe, I'll need it to be versatile as far as my tone requirements are concerned - I want to be able to cop the vintage sparkly tones that my Geddy Lee Jazz can get, but I also want it to be able to cover the heavy original material that my NS-2 & NS-4 currently handle. I know it won't sound exactly like those basses (kind of the point, eh?), but I still need it to have the beefy low end & aggressive tone required for metal. :bassist:
I agree that the Aggie OBP-2 could work, and if for some reason it can't be paired with the EMGs, I would have to decide between the Bartolinis, the Nordstrands or the Aggie noiseless 1970's single-coils. Either that, or pair the EMGs with a Tonepump (provided Spector would build it).
Looks like I have some thinking & research to do....:hmm:
 
This is totally a PJ question but let me tell you ultimately it something Stuart would have to decide.

Here's why. The routes for Spectors are done with a pin-router system, by hand.

If you are familiar with a pin router, sorry to bore you with the details, but I'm going to share a brief description for anyone not familiar.

There's a table with a large pin (think the size of a good bolt) sticking up out of it. There's a drill press that's operated by a set of pedals. You press the pedal down (like the pedal of a car) and the drill lowers to the table. Let off the pedal, the drill head goes back up.

You then have to make a template for whatever you're doing. This template will have a track on the bottom of it that you create. That track will sit over the pin and once the drill is running, you'll press the pedal down lowering the high-speed drill bit and you'll move the template you've created (which is holding the bass guitar) along the track and this is how you get the route completed just right.

You may have to change the depth that the drill bit comes down (when you press the pedal). You may have to change drill bits (from course to fine, a larger diameter to smaller) several times in this process.

So back to the problem.

The Coda Body and the NS-Body use completely different templates for their body routes.

And to my best knowledge, Stuart hasn't created a template for the specific *unique shape of the Spector USA 9v circuit for anything BUT the NS-Body basses. So this means that a new template for the body route for the circuit would have to be created for the Coda body.

This can be a great undertaking as you might imagine.

So theoretically COULD you build a Coda and put a USA Spector 9vold circuit in it? Sure. That's IF a new pin router template is created to allow you to do so.

You can ask PJ and he may think it's worth asking Stuart... and Stuart may say "mmmmm... I'll think about it." or he may say, "No." And honestly PJ may just say "No" because he knows Stuart will say no because they've talked about it at some point.

The bottom line is that it's a major undertaking and the best success to see that it might happen would be if there's a demand for it... and you may be the first to have asked or you may be the 100th. And at some point a number of people who would want something like that is going to get large enough that Stuart and PJ would agree that the time and effort to develop a new Spector 9v Circuit pin router template for the Coda is worth doing.

I wanted to answer this question with all of the detail so you all can get a peek into what the NY Workshop is like.

It might seem like a simple thing to move something or change something... or because this model has it, why not do it on this model.

But these changes can become major feats of time management and work quickly.

This is the reality of building guitars by hand.

I'd encourage you to ask PJ and see what he says.
Patrick, that's a very clear and precise explanation of how wood routing happens, thank you. :) As a woodworker myself I very much appreciate and respect the process Stuart goes thru to make each and every bass/guitar.
 
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