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Spector Club - Part 10

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Phat , u may be right , but it looks like inlay filler in the pics and one inlay appears to have some depth in the pearl . I saw my first one about 4 years ago and emailed pj rubal about it and that's what he told me it was an artist series ns2a and weren't many made .
 
Phat , u may be right , but it looks like inlay filler in the pics and one inlay appears to have some depth in the pearl . I saw my first one about 4 years ago and emailed pj rubal about it and that's what he told me it was an artist series ns2a and weren't many made .
Even if they're actual inlays, I'm surprised they let it out of the shop like that.
First fret is over to the G side.
12th is over towards the E side, but actually crooked/tilted towards the G.
Every inlay from the 7th fret on is increasingly closer to the higher (notewise) fret than the lower one.

The NS2A's were still typically very well made. It would surprise me that they did inlay work this "off".

Who knows.
 
PhatBasstard said:
I had a Rebop 5 DLX with Alder wings for about "5 minutes" too. Didn't like the response/tone and it neck dived horribly. Only bass I've ever owned, Spector or otherwise, that did that.

That white Euro5 was literally gone within a couple hours of you posting it. I considered buying it but it was listed as sold already.
I totally had the same issues! It just took me 8 months of making adjustments/mods to finally realize that it wasn't going to produce the tone/response that I was looking for, and that I needed to sell it...at a nice small profit too! The neck dive was crazy but never quite drove me to insanity. I even tried different size/type of shoulder straps too. Upon playing my new/old stock NS-95 SSD for the first time, I finally heard the sound I was searching for! :hyper:

Wow Phat! You were actually seriously thinking of buying a 5er?! :eyebrow:

PhatBasstard said:
Even if they're actual inlays, I'm surprised they let it out of the shop like that.
First fret is over to the G side.
12th is over towards the E side, but actually crooked/tilted towards the G.
Every inlay from the 7th fret on is increasingly closer to the higher (notewise) fret than the lower one.

The NS2A's were still typically very well made. It would surprise me that they did inlay work this "off".

Who knows.

THE"Mystery bass" of all time! :cool: I can't wait to see how this one unravels! :bassist:
 
jarrod cunningham said:
Speaking of the mystery bass , I confess , I bid on it ...... It's too weird not to .

Well this is awesome! :hyper: This means...wait for it...soon after the auction you'll be able to help unravel the mystery! And allow JPS to do a photo op of "Mystery Bass"!
Now how many hours do we wait???
 
Truly inspiring story by LimaGuy on all things Spector site!

Celinder_32 absolutely STOLE that NS-2 from GC! Holy &^#%$%!!!! They listed it as a Euro?

I'm going to replace the PUPs on my NS-2a.

EMG PJHZ Set Passive Three Pickup Set for Bass, Black | eBay

Will these work?

Also, G.A.S. attack!

I think it may be labelled incorrectly though. With two J PUPs, is this still an NS-4H2?

Invalid Link Removed

Alright, who bought the last two of those pickups? :eyebrow:
 
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I just got my 2nd spector bass, the 5 string euro. I'm having an issue though, its volume is WAYYY hotter than my other spector. Probably 2-3 times higher.

how do I go about getting it turned down? It's just too much right now. I'd really like th e2 spectors to be pretty dang close if possible.

Check out this video that Patrick Stern created about adjusting the output of the Tonepump.
This will solve your problem.
YouTube - ‪ALL THINGS SPECTOR - TonePump - History & Adjustment‬‏
 
hahaah I know that man - I just dont want to have to worry at a show to only turn it up like 1/3 of the way if I fully turn it off between songs. I'd rather it be set to me opening volume up full and playing. Not having to guess and change it if its all off

Turning down the Tonepump output as shown in the video will solve your problem. I had the same problem. My Euro 4LX was way hotter then my other 2 Spectors and my other basses. I made the adjustment and now it the same.
 
Anyone got an extra nut for a Legend laying around. LOL yeah right.....:D
The brass nut I have for the 2J is a tad wide on the string spacing for the neck, now.
The Legend is like 1 1/2 inches and the 2J is 1 5/8?
What I need is the strings a tad closer together.

21964aaa.jpg
 
Tracebassplayer said:
Anyone got an extra nut for a Legend laying around. LOL yeah right.....:D
The brass nut I have for the 2J is a tad wide on the string spacing for the neck, now.
The Legend is like 1 1/2 inches and the 2J is 1 5/8?
What I need is the strings a tad closer together.

Why yes I do matter of fact...but it's not brass, it's the plastic. I know a guy that custom makes nuts out of whatever material you want. Here's his info;
AJ Yenser
[email protected]
Tell AJ that I sent you, Michael, from Michigan. He just made a BEAD for my NS-2A two weeks ago.
Let me know if you'd like my old plastic nut, no problem.
Michael
 
Even if they're actual inlays, I'm surprised they let it out of the shop like that.
First fret is over to the G side.
12th is over towards the E side, but actually crooked/tilted towards the G.
Every inlay from the 7th fret on is increasingly closer to the higher (notewise) fret than the lower one.

The NS2A's were still typically very well made. It would surprise me that they did inlay work this "off".

Who knows.

I agree Phat. I've held a black NS-2A with factory inlays... towards the very end of Kramer, right before they shut their doors, an artist ordered 6 or so NS-2A models with inlays. And I've only seen them in gloss black. Never any other color. And the one I held, the inlay work was as good as the work in the Czech shop.

There's no way Stuart would allow work like this to leave the USA shop. And Stuart touched EVERY USA SPECTOR-Kramer model that was made. So I just can't picture this being an authentic USA Spector.

My guess here is that this is an aftermarket job OR... the neck on this guitar is bent/twisted. :eyebrow:

I'd argue that this is NOT an NS-2.

The bridge size is not large enough (when you look at the bridge compared to the J-Pup).

Why take out the active EMG's (that would have come with the NS-2) and put in Bart's?

You'd do that to replace the SPECTOR branded passive pups.

This bass is missing the "Rubber Stamp" "Made in the USA" serial number on the headstock.

Has anyone seen into the control cavity yet?

I don't think there's a big mystery honestly.

I also don't want to say anything negative about the seller. But it's way over-priced.
 
Why yes I do matter of fact...but it's not brass, it's the plastic. I know a guy that custom makes nuts out of whatever material you want. Here's his info;
AJ Yenser
[email protected]
Tell AJ that I sent you, Michael, from Michigan. He just made a BEAD for my NS-2A two weeks ago.
Let me know if you'd like my old plastic nut, no problem.
Michael
Niiiice email address...:D LOL

Thanks, I appreciate that.
I would like to appropriate your um..
I just can't say it without sounding just wrong...
A. your old nut,...
B. your extra nut...
C. your old Legend's nut...

They gotta rename the damn thing something else. It's just wrong for a guy to ask another guy if he can:
A. have his old nut...
B. have his old plastic nut...
C. buy his old nut

... even worse...
would you like my old nut? :eyebrow:

LOLOLLOLOLOLOLOLOL:D:D:D:D:D

Anyway, How much you want for it?
I'll mock it up and see if the spacing is good, then order a new one in brass like it's supposed to have on it. :cool:

Hey JPS...
Do you think that a Legend nut will bring the string spacing close enough to get the E string off the edge enough?
 
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