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Spector Club - Part 11

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#881
Cinnamon Buns said:
Hi, guys. I'm hoping one of you fine folks could help me out in identifying a Spector bass.

Spector 4 String Bass Guitar (Black) | eBay

This eBay listing (sorry, I don't know how to make hyperlinks) just went up, and I am puzzled as to what model/make this particular Spector is. At a glance I thought it was a Legend/NS2000, but it has active electronics evidently, and it has a neck-thru design, in line with the more expensive Spectors. It also appears to have been painted at some point, considering the odd gaps between the headstock and the base of the neck, unless that is standard with these basses.

I've been looking for a nice Spector bass for ages, so any advice would really help.
Click to expand...

It is definatly a NS-2A. Besides the refinish, the sanding off of the back of the neck and worn pickups. Everything else looks about right. Based on that condition I wouldnt recommend paying above $275-$300 total.
 
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#882
Cinnamon Buns said:
Hi, guys. I'm hoping one of you fine folks could help me out in identifying a Spector bass.

Spector 4 String Bass Guitar (Black) | eBay

This eBay listing (sorry, I don't know how to make hyperlinks) just went up, and I am puzzled as to what model/make this particular Spector is. At a glance I thought it was a Legend/NS2000, but it has active electronics evidently, and it has a neck-thru design, in line with the more expensive Spectors. It also appears to have been painted at some point, considering the odd gaps between the headstock and the base of the neck, unless that is standard with these basses.

I've been looking for a nice Spector bass for ages, so any advice would really help.
Click to expand...

I'm not good with the serial-number-model-identification, but that neck looks to me like it was finished (with a color, that is) and then sanded down by a previous owner. All the neck-thru Spectors I've seen have finished necks.

[DEL]I'm wondering if there's a reason it's so cheap.[/DEL] EDIT: Shows how much I know about these things...:hiding:
 
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#884
LimaGuy said:
It is definatly a NS-2A. Besides the refinish, the sanding off of the back of the neck and worn pickups. Everything else looks about right. Based on that condition I wouldnt recommend paying above $275-$300 total.
Click to expand...

Ah, okay. Thanks very much! I'm a bit worried that the refinish may have thrown off the feel or balance (which Spectors just nail perfectly), but I'll make sure to stay within that price range if I bid.
 
#885
Cinnamon Buns said:
Ah, okay. Thanks very much! I'm a bit worried that the refinish may have thrown off the feel or balance (which Spectors just nail perfectly), but I'll make sure to stay within that price range if I bid.
Click to expand...

Saw that too. It's an NS-2A . I've been watching it.
I wouldn't worry too much about the refinish on the neck.
you can redo it black and relaquer it.
 
#886
JPSBassist said:
It would have to be a post-1998 model. The Double-S headstock logo is the key. Before 1998 it would have had the SSD logo.

It looks like a NSCR4FM from early in the series before the crown inlays started. So a 1999 model.
Click to expand...

My bad. I had another look at the picture and it does look like an out of focus Euro bridge, not the larger USA bridge. For some reason I was thinking of this one instead.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
#888
Hey JSP, could you measure the distance from the nut to the end of the bass on your USA NS-2 and Euro4LX-TW-35 for me? I've been thinking about picking up a Euro 4LX-35, but I'm not sure if the extra inch will work for me or not. I know the reach to the first fret on a regular scale Spector is about as far as I can comfortably go, so I'm a little leery of buying one without being able to try it first. The measurement should tell me if the extra inch was added to the neck length (making the reach to the first fret a little longer), or if the bridge was simply moved back an inch (making the reach a hair shorter because of the increased distance between the nut and the first fret).
 
#889
Count me in!!!!!!!

103_3006.jpg
 
#890
StereoPlayer said:
Ya know...I'm really diggin my Spector-Core Fretless 4.

It had a shorting out problem. But I fixed that, the printed circut board for the Fishman was floating about in the control cavity! Fixed.

The piezo bridge PU rocks.

Don't really care for the lines neck.

I know it's a cheaper Spector...but I still love it.:cool:

0427112150.gif
Click to expand...

That's the brother to mine, but I've got frets.

I had to replace a buggered blend pot and re-solder some PC board connections to bring the piezo back to life, but that's how one gets things for a "good price."

After a month of playing, I replaced the HZ pickup with one from SGD Lutherie, which opened up the tone of the instrument. The HZ was fine, but the SGD works better, IMO, with the piezo, yielding a more natural, somewhat woodier tone.

However, If I hadn't gotten it rather inexpensively, I would probably not have upgraded the pickup.

BTW, it sounds really good with flats!
 
#892
fretless_guy said:
Hey JSP, could you measure the distance from the nut to the end of the bass on your USA NS-2 and Euro4LX-TW-35 for me?
Click to expand...

USA NS-2 : Nut to bottom of the bass is 38"
USA NS-4 : Nut to bottom of the bass is 38"
Euro4LX-TW-35 : Nut to bottom of the bass is 38"

I can tell you where the extra inch comes from. The bridge sits farther towards the bottom on the 35" model.

From the back edge of the bridge to the bottom of the guitar measures the following:

USA NS-2 : 3"
USA NS-4 : 3"
Euro4LX-TW-35 : 2"

The distance reach feels the same for me between all three.
 
#893
Question for my fellow Spector junkies. I have owned 6 Spector to date, 2 US , 2 euro, 2 Korean all were great. The non us basses had a good tone but not quite the pronounced growl of the American ones. The Koreans were pretty close also. I played 2 euros today. One kinda had "the tone", one Definatly didn't (matt finish). Then I picked up a US made one and it Definatly had the Spector growl, all day. I had always attributed that growl to the maple body, haz lab, and PJ config, But this US had the aguilar pre and emg dc 35's. So where do you really get that hi mid growl from? Nothing else has it either lol
 
#894
Versatek6 said:
That's the brother to mine, but I've got frets.

I had to replace a buggered blend pot and re-solder some PC board connections to bring the piezo back to life, but that's how one gets things for a "good price."

After a month of playing, I replaced the HZ pickup with one from SGD Lutherie, which opened up the tone of the instrument. The HZ was fine, but the SGD works better, IMO, with the piezo, yielding a more natural, somewhat woodier tone.

However, If I hadn't gotten it rather inexpensively, I would probably not have upgraded the pickup.

BTW, it sounds really good with flats!
Click to expand...

Your sounds cool. Thanks for your reply. Flats...? I'm a roundwound guy:smug:
Also...blend knob?
 
#897
JPSBassist said:
USA NS-2 : Nut to bottom of the bass is 38"
USA NS-4 : Nut to bottom of the bass is 38"
Euro4LX-TW-35 : Nut to bottom of the bass is 38"

I can tell you where the extra inch comes from. The bridge sits farther towards the bottom on the 35" model.

From the back edge of the bridge to the bottom of the guitar measures the following:

USA NS-2 : 3"
USA NS-4 : 3"
Euro4LX-TW-35 : 2"

The distance reach feels the same for me between all three.
Click to expand...


Thanks JPS. That's what I thought, but I wanted to be sure.
 
#898
I parted out and sold off my ESP/Chandler Fretless.
I have decided that I am going to De-Fret my ReBop instead of the Sunburst NS-2A.

The Luither that I know is going to get back to me within the next 2 weeks when he has some available time.

In the meantime any recommendations for strings to use? I have a nickel allergy and I use DR stainless steel now, but I don't want to destroy the fingerboard with them.
 
#900
LimaGuy said:
I parted out and sold off my ESP/Chandler Fretless.
I have decided that I am going to De-Fret my ReBop instead of the Sunburst NS-2A.

The Luither that I know is going to get back to me within the next 2 weeks when he has some available time.

In the meantime any recommendations for strings to use? I have a nickel allergy and I use DR stainless steel now, but I don't want to destroy the fingerboard with them.
Click to expand...

Dude... I use Dogal Jaco Ultrapiatte Carbon Chrome flats. The best flat wound strings I've ever used. They are so awesome.
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