• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Squier Jaguar Short Scale Club Part 3

Hey Evil - Happy New Year!
I'm with ya on the white/tort option that and a maple/maple neck with a natural headstock would hook me on another purchase.

For those keeping record - mines a black 2011 with very little head dive. I modded the guts with a John East preamp which added a bit of weight to the body so that probably helped a little. If I was really concerned about balance on one of these I'd put a precision ash tray over the bridge and Hipshot ultra light tuners on the headstock. I'm sure it wouldn't dive after that.

Happy New Year to you too G!
 
BTW, for folks with newer serial numbers, it seem to take the neck about two years to settle in. That's what it took for mine with adjusting the neck about every two months before it started behaving. Just stick with it.

As always, YMMV.

I'm really glad to hear you say that. I often seem to be tightening the truss rod on mine and have been worried about the possibility of it getting maxed. It's my favourite bass so I don't much like the idea of that :D
 
I've been following this thread since day one, but this is the first time I've chimed in.

I've had a few short scale basses over the past couple of years, but my Jaguar kept growing on me, to the point that I decided to get rid of my EB-0, and the Mikey Way Mustang, and customize the Jag.

Right out of the box, this thing was pretty solid in both sound and finish, but I decided to tweak it anyway. At this point I think the only thing original is the body and the neck.

I replaced the tuning machines with a set of MIM Fenders. There are more cogs on the gears, so you have a longer run up to the note (probably not the best way to explain that), and therefore it seems more accurate.

I replaced the Black scratch plate with a Red pearloid one that I think looks super cool.

Replaced the pickups with a Dimarzio model P in the middle, and a model J at the bridge.

Replaced the bridge with a high mass model that really helped with the sustain.

Replaced all the pots as well as the jack with CTS and Switchcraft respectively.

The strings I use are the D'addario ENR71s short scale half rounds.

It fits just fine in my Road Runner guitar bag. (GC calls it the Roadster Electric E Guitar Bag)

I'm getting a hard case from Rondo tomorrow - I'll try to post photos of it in the case (assuming it fits). There has been lots of talk about cases here, but unless I missed it, I haven't seen any photos.

I guess I went a little overboard in replacing nearly everything, but it was a lot of fun.

Thanks!

Tom





[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]






[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
Last edited:
My black one doesn't neck dive at all but my red one does. However my red one is 7lbs and the black one is a little over 8lbs. So that might be the difference as to why one neck dive and the other doesn't.

I wish the head stocks paint matched the body.
 
I've been following this thread since day one, but this is the first time I've chimed in.

I've had a few short scale basses over the past couple of years, but my Jaguar kept growing on me, to the point that I decided to get rid of my EB-0, and the Mikey Way Mustang, and customize the Jag.

Right out of the box, this thing was pretty solid in both sound and finish, but I decided to tweak it anyway. At this point I think the only thing original is the body and the neck.

I replaced the tuning machines with a set of MIM Fenders. There are more cogs on the gears, so you have a longer run up to the note (probably not the best way to explain that), and therefore it seems more accurate.

I replaced the Black scratch plate with a Red pearloid one that I think looks super cool.

Replaced the pickups with a Dimarzio model P in the middle, and a model J at the bridge.

Replaced the bridge with a high mass model that really helped with the sustain.

Replaced all the pots as well as the jack with CTS and Switchcraft respectively.

The strings I use are the D'addario ENR71s short scale half rounds.

It fits just fine in my Road Runner guitar bag. (GC calls it the Roadster Electric E Guitar Bag)

I'm getting a hard case from Rondo tomorrow - I'll try to post photos of it in the case (assuming it fits). There has been lots of talk about cases here, but unless I missed it, I haven't seen any photos.

I guess I went a little overboard in replacing nearly everything, but it was a lot of fun.

Thanks!

Tom

TomesoR is 145. I've done almost the same thing. The electronics I installed are different (I figured out a stereo harness) and of course different brands of stuff (Schaller bridge, etc) so the only original thing on mine is the neck and body too.

Welcome to the club.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TomesoR
I gotta say I'm glad to have discovered Talkbass (I purchased the 2 Jag ss I have from reading the reviews here on Talkbass). The Jag is an awesome bass and is so comfortable to play.
I am wanting to mod one of my Jaguar ss basses and would like opinions about what I plan to do. What I'm thinking is either a Babics or Gotoh bridge to help with sustain and counteract neck dive.
Also, would changing out the pots and capacitor yield good results or should I replace the pickups as well? Was thinking maybe Seymour Duncan quarter pounders or Bartolinis for pickups.
Thanks. :)
Oh, another question (I'm full of 'em.) Lol
I really would like to have a Volume, Blend, Tone setup. Would like to know what would be the best equipment would be.
 
Last edited:
Personally, I think any high mass bridge would do what you want. I would replace the pickups and pots at the same time or just the pickups first. Can't help you with the Duncan/Barts or blend/vol/tone questions, I'm a DiMarzio fan. Maybe someone else can chime in.
You'll notice a difference in the sound of the bass, but it may not be as radical as you expect.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Short-scale
Personally, I think any high mass bridge would do what you want. I would replace the pickups and pots at the same time or just the pickups first. Can't help you with the Duncan/Barts or blend/vol/tone questions, I'm a DiMarzio fan. Maybe someone else can chime in.
You'll notice a difference in the sound of the bass, but it may not be as radical as you expect.
Thanks for the reply.
I'm thinking the bridge would be a good start for now. It already sounds good with the stock pickups
But I'm a stickler for sound( It sounds good thru the Hartke kickback 12.)
The DiMarzios are something I would like to try as well (just checked out a youtube of a ss Jag with them and they do sound good) I don't know much about pickups so I appreciate the recommendation of DiMarzios as well.
 
Oh, another question (I'm full of 'em.) Lol
I really would like to have a Volume, Blend, Tone setup. Would like to know what would be the best equipment would be.

Welcome to the Jag SS world! :hyper:
Hope this answers your blend question. I have a Squier Precision Special (34" P with jazz neck and p/j pup) that is wired with V/B/T. I really like the master volume control, it makes life simpler for me with no loss in tonal flexibility/quality. I find the blend makes it faster and easier to switch between pickups, turning one knob instead of two. My Jag SS controls are stock and although they work fine, at times I wish for the master volume / blend controls of my P special. I can't add any details about what specific parts were used, I took the bass to a local repair guy I trust and he supplied parts and labor (about $35 in 2002). I think there is some info on the internet (check StewMac) seems I remember 2 different types of passive blend pots being available. The one I have has a center detente where both pickups are on 100%. As you rotate the knob towards a pickup and away from center (lets say towards the bridge) that pickup (bridge) remains at 100% and the other pickup (neck) will decrease in volume. At the extremes you get 100% of one pickup and 0% of the other pickup. This is the type blend control function I'd recommend (a thread on TalkBass). Hope this helps. Here is a V/B/T diagram from [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] and here is a thread on TalkBass about wiring a blend control. IIRC you treat the P bass pickups as a single unit like the neck J pickup when wiring (P/J blend wiring diagram). Here Link Removed (I have purchased a complete wiring harness for a P bass from them, great customer service and parts quality, came with easy to understand diagram). Hope this helps.
The P Special has Duncan SPB1 (P) and STK1B (J) pickups. I think these are a major improvement, providing a great vintage tone, over the original pups which were pretty bad. IME I'm not sure the cost of replacing the stock Jag SS pickups, which are far superior to the one in the P Special (especially the P), with these specific Duncan pickups is worth the addition money. The STK1B is noiseless when soloed which is nice but a little weak. I really like the tone of the stock Jag SS P pickup which is soloed 80% of the time.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Short-scale
Welcome to the Jag SS world! :hyper:
Hope this answers your blend question. I have a Squier Precision Special (34" P with jazz neck and p/j pup) that is wired with V/B/T. I really like the master volume control, it makes life simpler for me with no loss in tonal flexibility/quality. I find the blend makes it faster and easier to switch between pickups, turning one knob instead of two. My Jag SS controls are stock and although they work fine, at times I wish for the master volume / blend controls of my P special. I can't add any details about what specific parts were used, I took the bass to a local repair guy I trust and he supplied parts and labor (about $35 in 2002). I think there is some info on the internet (check StewMac) seems I remember 2 different types of passive blend pots being available. The one I have has a center detente where both pickups are on 100%. As you rotate the knob towards a pickup and away from center (lets say towards the bridge) that pickup (bridge) remains at 100% and the other pickup (neck) will decrease in volume. At the extremes you get 100% of one pickup and 0% of the other pickup. This is the type blend control function I'd recommend (a thread on TalkBass). Hope this helps. Here is a V/B/T diagram from [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] and here is a thread on TalkBass about wiring a blend control. IIRC you treat the P bass pickups as a single unit like the neck J pickup when wiring (P/J blend wiring diagram). Here Link Removed (I have purchased a complete wiring harness for a P bass from them, great customer service and parts quality, came with easy to understand diagram). Hope this helps.
The P Special has Duncan SPB1 (P) and STK1B (J) pickups. I think these are a major improvement, providing a great vintage tone, over the original pups which were pretty bad. IME I'm not sure the cost of replacing the stock Jag SS pickups, which are far superior to the one in the P Special (especially the P), with these specific Duncan pickups is worth the addition money. The STK1B is noiseless when soloed which is nice but a little weak. I really like the tone of the stock Jag SS P pickup which is soloed 80% of the time.
Thanks for the advice.:)
I like using both pickups and it would make it easier using a blend pot instead of the V,V,T setup.
Squier has come a long way and has hit a home run with these little Jaguars.
 
Last edited:
Hey Jag Guys -

I'm interested in buying a SS Jag for my next project bass. I love the body shape and scale. One of the things I'd really want to do is strip the paint and lacquer the wood: I have a need for a natural finish bass in my life......who knows why?

Can anyone venture an opinion as to whether the wood is likely to be good enough quality to look OK? I don't expect some stellar grain. Apologies if there's already a thread on this, I couldn't find one.

Thanks:bassist:
 
Hey Jag Guys -

I'm interested in buying a SS Jag for my next project bass. I love the body shape and scale. One of the things I'd really want to do is strip the paint and lacquer the wood: I have a need for a natural finish bass in my life......who knows why?

Can anyone venture an opinion as to whether the wood is likely to be good enough quality to look OK? I don't expect some stellar grain. Apologies if there's already a thread on this, I couldn't find one.

Thanks:bassist:
There are a couple (if not several) detailed accounts in earlier posts/threads. Go to page one and start working your way back. IIRC one member had some issues with getting new paint to adhere smoothly. Try searching the threads for "refinish" or "project", there are several examples of very nice refinishes.
 
I've refinished two. Both with lacquer finishes. On one the wood was two or three pieces of good hard wood. It looked good enough that it could have been done natural or stained but I'd already committed to Burgandy Mist. The second one was a mess. Six pieces of wood. Two were good hardwood, but the other pieces were some terrible softwood. I wish I'd just sanded to the sealer/primer coat and stopped there. The bad wood didn't take sanding sealer, wood filler, two part fill/sealer, it just is junk wood. My luthier couldn't even figure out what it is. Maybe some weird Chinese wood of some sort. Good thing is after it's all done it developed streaks, cracks, runners like it's a 40 year old bass that sat in somebodies closet since the 70s. Not what I was looking for, but it's OK.
From what I've read on here this isn't unusual. Some bodies are great wood when they're stripped, and some are not. One thing is of you can try them out look for the heaviest one you can find. More likely hood of getting one with good wood. My one with the bad wood is significantly lighter than the other one.