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Stoner/Doom Bassists Thread, Part 90: Maxed Out

Also, I HATH TAMED THE BEAST THAT IS THE GREAT DESTROYA. SHE IS AN UNWIELDY BRVTAL GAL BUT I REIGNED HER IN. Practicing with my "Mr Business Man Noizecase" has been quite fruitful. Here's the Shogun board.

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Flats. There is only one choice. TI Jazz flats.

Yeah, they are stupid expensive but this is my logic. I don't want to change my flats. The more worn in the better, I mean they are supposed to be dark and thuddy after all. $100 is a lot for strings but if you figure on not really ever buying another set then, to me at least, $100 doesn't seem to bad. They are worth the admission price as well. I've heard good things of labellas but haven't tried them. I will say that my TIs are incomparably better than any other flats I've played. They can do the vintage thing and also rip when needed. Plus they have a bit more brightness and clarity and the lower tension feel of rounds.

I believe you can also get the gauges you desire.

I'll spend $500 on rounds over time for one bass before I'd consider getting more TIs. And they are like ~$60-70 on the used market uncut and NIB.

Alright, I'll look at those. I was going with LaBellas (lights) because that's what Jack used (I know, I know, but I figured it was a good place to start), and I might still start with those because they're about $40 cheaper. But I like my tension lower like Swing 66s, so if the TIs are lower tension I might need to just pony up.

And as far as rounds, yeah, anything that will get me close to the Swing 66 sound, so I'll check out the D'Addarios.
 
You just reminded me about my B string sounding thuddy after installing a set of Swing66 the ATK. Suspecting the nut needs some more work and or get the Brass replacement cut. D is just off the deck of the first fret.

I've also heard complaints about Swing 66s over the last 6 months after they switched to the new packaging, people saying they sound dead out of the packet or inconsistent. Not saying it's the packing, but some have suggested they've changed the production method in some way. I don't know about any of that, I haven't received the new pacs when ordering online, and I've never had a dud set either.
 
Yeah I've heard the same. Nut is tight on the string so it may be the cause. Wanna rule out any setup issues before calling foul. Was really happy with the overall clarity gained, hi fi in comparison to the EXP. But this B did have a distinct difference from the others.
 
Greetings everyone, So Musicians friend received my Warwick for repair....Turns out the body cracked towards the knob area during transport, and now I have to deal with a UPS investigation, to determine if I will be compensated.
So I went to Guitar Center....and picked up a Tobias 4 string...the $200 one, for $150....I knew it was too good to be true.
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That sucks. And the companies are always like "I dunno what happened. Must be your own fault somehow. Couldn't have been us, no, never."

I agree with the used Peavey suggestion, though.

Also, I HATH TAMED THE BEAST THAT IS THE GREAT DESTROYA. SHE IS AN UNWIELDY BRVTAL GAL BUT I REIGNED HER IN. Practicing with my "Mr Business Man Noizecase" has been quite fruitful. Here's the Shogun board.

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I don't see the board. Just some pedals. :p
 

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I am thinking of picking up a short scale too for sitting on the couch before work. Do you need to use really heavy gauge strings so they aren't too floppy?
My buddy used to have a neat collection of short scales, the single pickup Gretsch was my favorite, it had such a great old school with a touch of girth tone. I think I might get one of them. That Squier Mikey Way? Mustang has a humbucker which looks like you might be able to swap it for a Gretsch Filtertron style pup. I was also surprised by how good the Squier Vintage Modified Mustang sounds in youtube reviews.
For uber tinyness I might just get one of those 28 inch scale Shrednck Z Series travel basses though, since the goal is to just be tiny for unplugged couch use for practicing scales and such.

@The_Janitor you might dig this, the ol' lady came home with a less than a year old Goffin's Cockatoo last night. The thing is so quiet you would never think it was in the Cockatoo family. Super cuddly like a Cockatoo though.


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Caught my pair of Ornate Uromastyx getting ready for Valentine's Day too.

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Paul from The Lions Den in Madtown is Bongzillas tech, Mikey, Cooter and Jeff all take their amps to him now I guess.

I honestly expect a $500 repair bill with this thing, Im cool with that because Im getting for basically free in the trade value wise. Plus Im selling a 200w Bassman to help fund/pay for that repair and the MACEs repair. Which is $170, didnt expect it to be that much, but now that you say their a pain I can understand the $120 labor cost.

Here's a gut shot of a mace I worked on. The pots are all mounted to the board, so to get to the bottom side, you need to undo all the pots, and the wire harness. If you need to get to the bottom of the board to probe something while the amp is working/running, may St Datassian help you. Well over a dozen opamps as well. The highlighted parts are just what I fixed, cleaned the rear jacks, replaced a leaking electrolytic, and retubed/biased. Could be worse for sure though.

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Though most of us are well aware of my extreme affinity for the GZR, why in the dark lords name would you consider pulling the MFD pup??!? And would you sell it to me? That is all.

I have two sets of the MFD P pickups, one in a Fender P/J, and the other in the SB1. I'm just not happy with the tone from the pickups right now. The rest of the bass is fantastic though, and one reason I went geezer is to to get the whole harness so I could swap back in the original down the road if needed. The sound out of the MFD is loud and thick as fvkc, but I want a more old-school P sound with some wood detail around the edges.
 
If you want more of the Swing 66 sound I would look at the D'addario Prosteels or DR High-Beams they will give you a brighter than the D'addario nickels.

Cool.

I should note though, I use Swing 66 Nickels, not Stainless. Will the DRs and Prosteels still me more similar to Nickel 66s, or do you mean they'll sound more like the SS 66s?
 
the repair man at g&l believes that i can just have somebody with the right tools slowly and carefully put the new truss rod nut on the LB100 thereby avoiding the purchase of a new neck, he said it wasn't broken, but there is some thread stripping, hopefully he's right cause a new neck is gonna be pretty darn pricey
A broken truss rod would mean a new neck? What?
 

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