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Stoner/Doom Bassists Thread, Part 90: Maxed Out

Lol. Sorry dude. I'll try to be more on point with my historical gear knowledge.

Most of my amps only have a "master" volume, the CL400 being the oddball. Under master it has two controls that control the highs and lows and a pregain. I usually set my master to "wrecking ball" and adjust the pregain to taste. With pedals I usually set the tone for how I like that particular distortion and leave it. I hesitate to have too many preamps or EQs because ultimately I want the sound of my bass and amp. That said, I am buying a source audio programmable EQ next paycheck to give my front end a little low end boost before it hits any pedals that may suck some of it dry. Also the 4 memory slots would allow me to set up my Jazz and T40 so that changing that program would be the only thing I need to adjust when playing a different bass. I try to minimize change but to do that requires a hair more involvement than straight to amp purity for the sound I want.


Usually I aim for a tone between Tim Commerford and Jeff Matz with a dash of the guy on the most recent Tombs album.


But I'm with you regarding computers/stereos.
A big reason for me switching from my Digitech reverb to my EHX holy grail nano was that I liked the latter's bare bones approach with no EQ knob. Because I don't want the crappy EQ on a reverb pedal when I have a much better EQ on my amp and I just want my reverb tone to be the same as my regular tone, but reverby. Also part of the reason I'm getting a custom Dunwich pedal to replace the bass big muff and swollen pickle. Because **** tone knobs on pedals. The Sitar pedal obviously has a lot of knobs, but I basically just read the (extensive, for a pedal) manual on how to make it most natural sounding and set it at that. The D-180 is my regular overdrive. I lay the fuzz on top of that (which is why neither is set very high).

I'm honestly not sure who my tone is most like. Maybe Geezer Butler on Master of Reality or Live Evil, but with more clank?
 
I'ma jump on this CL400 discussion.

Tbh, I think the amp itself is low heavy by default.

Yeah sure, I still have to build BFM cab for my Kappalite 3015s, but when I try to play with the band, I cut the low and drop it all the way to 1.

I don't think I'm being overcautious imo
 
I'd love to try an Orange and forgot to add them to my list. Like we were talking about last night. So expensive! The only way I'll likely get one is used... Then have to deal with how it was treated and maintenance.

I would never buy an AD200 new, they are way overpriced. Got mine B-stock.
 
I'ma jump on this CL400 discussion.

Tbh, I think the amp itself is low heavy by default.

Yeah sure, I still have to build BFM cab for my Kappalite 3015s, but when I try to play with the band, I cut the low and drop it all the way to 1.

I don't think I'm being overcautious imo

I didn't think there was another CL400 user on this forum. If the bass cut is engaged on mine I don't push the low know past 7. With the cut switch disengaged it sits around 4 or 5. But that's like gig volume huge lows. If I try to play like that at home it is mud city. Wayyyy too bassy and I can't turn it up enough to hear the mids and highs because well... 400w tube amp, dually and second floor apartment.
 
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I didn't think there was another CL400 user on this forum. If the bass cut is engaged on mine I don't push the low know past 7. With the cut switch disengaged it sits around 4 or 5. But that's like gig volume huge lows. If I try to play like that at home it is mud city. Wayyyy too bassy and I can't turn it up enough to hear the mids and highs because well... 400w tube amp, dually and second floor apartment.

Yeah if I was playing at a venue with PAs and stuff, sure I wouldn't be afraid to turn up the low knob from 1 to 2, but I would still hit the cut along with my High Pass Filter pedal set at 40 Hz.

On DI, this thing is super clean. It really makes my Hondo P-bass sound like an actual p-bass. But since I'm playing in B flat standard, I give more emphasis on mids and highs cuz I want to be heard of course.

I'm currently waiting for this guy living in Grand Rapids, MI to make a trip to my town so I can trade my Laney for his Ampeg 810. I'll see whether Ampeg would bring out better sound than my current cab or not.
 
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i'm definitely considering it, but i'm cheap. has anyone spray painted a guard? i rarely use a pick so it wouldn't take much abuse...
I'm sure there are cheap aftermarket ones. You could then sell the tort one to the weirdos on the basses forum who seem to think everything needs a tort guard.

As for the rattle can refinish... if you're already going rattle can, you may as well go International Orange. And do the neck, too, for good measure.
 
Never used an octave fuzz pedal. Partly cause it seems like most octavers aren't very useful down to low B.

Most octave fuzz pedals that I'm familiar with go up. Very few go down.

I have a LWA Extreme Octave and it is pretty gnarly. It's octave section is pretty glitchy with bass and I never use it. The fuzz is brutal though and it sounds insane on guitar as both fuzz and fuzz/octave.
 
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I'm not gonna use octave fuzz to go below B0 because it would be useless and impractical. I'm merely thinking about adding more to the guitar sound, so the band as a whole can sound huge with tons of mids.

But holy poopie, that LWA Extreme Octave sounds insane. I'm all about that square waves
 
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I'm not gonna use octave fuzz to go below B0 because it would be useless and impractical. I'm merely thinking about adding more to the guitar sound, so the band as a whole can sound huge with tons of mids.

But holy poopie, that LWA Extreme Octave sounds insane. I'm all about that square waves
That makes more sense. Especially useful if the guitar is playing something high.
 
I've got a LWA Plague Doctor being built and I promised myself after missing the last run that I would grab a Dunwich ODB next go around. Magic has drilled enclosures and pcbs. I'm watching IG like a hawk. It's only a matter of time and then I probably won't be buying any pedals.