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Stoner/Doom Bassists Thread, Part 90: Maxed Out

The warmoth idea is good. You can always get the neck restored at a later date. I sure it could have the fb removed, resteamed and bent back in shape. May need a new truss rod though.

Or go the mim fender replacement neck route. If their replacement necks are like what they're putting on full builds these days that satin finish is awesome!
 
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Sorry for the noob question buuut...

Screenshot_2019-07-18-19-39-00-492_com.reverb.app.jpg


What's the use of those "holes" you can find on some cabs?
 
Sorry for the noob question buuut...

View attachment 3480626

What's the use of those "holes" you can find on some cabs?

Thats for hiding your stash man. You just stuff it into the back.







For real though they are ports to allow air to escape from the cabinet. It allows the designers to essentially adjust the volume/space inside the cab and tune the cabinets response. Generally ported cabinets have better extension in the low end but less thump than a sealed cab.
 
The warmoth idea is good. You can always get the neck restored at a later date. I sure it could have the fb removed, resteamed and bent back in shape. May need a new truss rod though.

Or go the mim fender replacement neck route. If their replacement necks are like what they're putting on full builds these days that satin finish is awesome!

Warmoth's necks get pricey once you add all the options to make it close to the original, so: ehhhhhhhhh. The $199 MIM Fender necks are really good, I used one on a Fenderbird (gave that bass to a buddy). But I'd want to keep it '70s style, w/ block inlays and not have to deal with putting a decal on it.

I'm leaning towards this one, which is readily available and wouldn't need much work to fit other than drilling a center hole in the neck heel. It's MIM but the Ensenada factory has come a long way since the '90s. I'm trying to see if the shop can get me a deal on one because they've got the Fender parts hookup.

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The broken

dkEEMrth.jpg
 
Well, finally got my doom rig together. A Traynor YBA300 going into an 8 ohm Peavey PVH 212. I was planning on getting a Fender Bassman 500 but saw the Traynor locally and thought “Why not go all-tube”. Definitely don’t regret it, this thing is so cool and is a solid 30lbs lighter than its Ampeg contemporary. I’m also a sucker for the way the tubes light up when you’re playing it, totally doomy imo.

My only issue is with my pedals. I have an effects loop of the bad stone, flanger, chorus and reverb but there is a lot of hiss from it. Going to have to tinker with it because there is no hiss with all the others.
 

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Warmoth's necks get pricey once you add all the options to make it close to the original, so: ehhhhhhhhh. The $199 MIM Fender necks are really good, I used one on a Fenderbird (gave that bass to a buddy). But I'd want to keep it '70s style, w/ block inlays and not have to deal with putting a decal on it.

I'm leaning towards this one, which is readily available and wouldn't need much work to fit other than drilling a center hole in the neck heel. It's MIM but the Ensenada factory has come a long way since the '90s. I'm trying to see if the shop can get me a deal on one because they've got the Fender parts hookup.

0992000921_gear_bty_002_nr.jpg


The broken

dkEEMrth.jpg
If you don't mind black blocks on it, look for a mim or mij geddy lee fender neck.
 
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It's a 3 bolt body, so depending on which end of the neck they stuck the truss rod adjustment hole makes a big difference. The ones with the adj. screw at the heel are a no go. The Marcus Miller reissue necks are 3-bolt and should work, the problem is they're not easy to get a hold of (same with Geddy's and '75 reissues from the '90s) unless you buy the whole bass just to harvest the neck, so what's the point?.....screw it. Dude at the shop can get a deal on the neck above so I'm gonna go with that. Stay tuned kids!!!!! :cigar:
 
Well, finally got my doom rig together. A Traynor YBA300 going into an 8 ohm Peavey PVH 212. I was planning on getting a Fender Bassman 500 but saw the Traynor locally and thought “Why not go all-tube”. Definitely don’t regret it, this thing is so cool and is a solid 30lbs lighter than its Ampeg contemporary. I’m also a sucker for the way the tubes light up when you’re playing it, totally doomy imo.

My only issue is with my pedals. I have an effects loop of the bad stone, flanger, chorus and reverb but there is a lot of hiss from it. Going to have to tinker with it because there is no hiss with all the others.

I was looking hard at that Traynor during my tube head expedition.....all I could find were the YBA200's though, which the internet tells me are not quite as good. I bet yours sounds even better with a couple of 15's.
 
I was looking hard at that Traynor during my tube head expedition.....all I could find were the YBA200's though, which the internet tells me are not quite as good. I bet yours sounds even better with a couple of 15's.
From what I gathered it seemed like the YBA200 gets dirtier quicker. So if you’re looking for clean tone from your head it wouldn’t be the best choice. I, for example, get my dirt from my pedals so the extra headroom was appreciated.
 
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Well, can’t catch a break. My original series of issues is over, only to be replaced by the opposite issue...

My bass is humming when I touch the bridge/strings or 2 specific pots/knobs (blend and bass). My initial thought is that I’ve fried those pots, as I had to touch those up a few times and they don’t look pretty. However, they both work fine. I’ll try and replace them this week, anyway, as it’s on my list just to make sure this thing is in tip-top shape after all this mess.

Here’s where it’s interesting - if I touch both knobs/pots simultaneously, the noise is gone. My bass functions perfectly. If I touch one solo, noise. If I touch a knob and the bridge no noise. If I touch knob and the strings noise again. Do I need to ground the pots to each other in the cavity? Is something up with the bridge, or is it the canary in the coal mine? (It is grounded, that much I know.)

Thanks once again for all the tech help. I swear, I’m learning a LOT, and I hope this epic saga is nearly over...
 
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Well, can’t catch a break. My original series of issues is over, only to be replaced by the opposite issue...

My bass is humming when I touch the bridge/strings or 2 specific pots/knobs (blend and bass). My initial thought is that I’ve fried those pots, as I had to touch those up a few times and they don’t look pretty. However, they both work fine. I’ll try and replace them this week, anyway, as it’s on my list just to make sure this thing is in tip-top shape after all this mess.

Here’s where it’s interesting - if I touch both knobs/pots simultaneously, the noise is gone. My bass functions perfectly. If I touch one solo, noise. If I touch a knob and the bridge no noise. If I touch knob and the strings noise again. Do I need to ground the pots to each other in the cavity? Is something up with the bridge, or is it the canary in the coal mine? (It is grounded, that much I know.)

Thanks once again for all the tech help. I swear, I’m learning a LOT, and I hope this epic saga is nearly over...
That sounds like a grounding issue to me.
Check the wiring on your pots. Make sure the routing is right, you don't have some exposed wires resting on something, or that one of the solders is just not good.
 
That sounds like a grounding issue to me.
Check the wiring on your pots. Make sure the routing is right, you don't have some exposed wires resting on something, or that one of the solders is just not good.
Yeah, figured. Gonna check it all again. Did that earlier to resolve my previous problems! Those two pots are giving me problems everywhere. I will definitely replace them in the future.

Weird thing I just noticed too - the noise is lessened when I remove the XLR from my DI. Maybe having the PA off is causing a bit of Ann issue?