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Stoner/Doom Bassists Thread, Part 90: Maxed Out

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Redid my pedalboard yesterday, then had band rehearsal and found it to work well.

The trouble I had, is that some pedals' backs don't take the sticky velcro well enough, so these pedals tended to get loose and move around. These I have mounted horizontally so I could tie-wrap them. This makes the board look a bit jumpier than I'd have liked, but like I said, in practice it does well enough.

Tuner (Valeton Coral)
Comp (SD Studio Bass)
Oct up (TC SubnUp Mini)
Dirt (Eno T-cube Octaver)
Envelope (Mooer)
Oct down (EBS OctaBass)
HPF (Broughton always on)

I've had the same problem in the past. I ended up making my board with perforated perforated steel so that I could just tie down all my pedals. Seems pretty nice and I don't have to worry about one walking off at a gig.
 
All this talk of Matamps and Sunn amps plus Bongzilla got me thinking of Mike's bass rig for Weedsconsin.
Bongzilla-Mike-Bass-Amp-Rig.jpg
 
Does anyone here use these strings (and if so, how do you like them???):

https://store.talkbass.com/products/dr-strings-ddt-55-drop-down-tuning-bass-guitar-strings-heavier?variant=32478346051666&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_campaign=gs-2021-02-24&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3qfhlKTC8AIVAzizAB23ewWdEAQYBSABEgIDI_D_BwE


Just curious bc I’m working on playing in drop tuning at the moment, but was unsure how well they handle E tuning as I sometimes switch back to standard tuning depending on what I’m playing...

Mostly just wondering how well they perform and if I should look at stringing my backup bass to them if I can’t easily switch back to standard tuning with these...

If you play something similar in terms of gauge/tuning I’m still interested...

Currently playing the DR Black Beauties heavy gauge (.110 for E) and I really like them so a bit hesitant to change strings but also intrigued by them...

Realize I could’ve posted this question to the general forum, but feel like I get better advice and responses to my questions on this thread...

Thanks! \m/
 
Does anyone here use these strings (and if so, how do you like them???):
https://store.talkbass.com/products...MI3qfhlKTC8AIVAzizAB23ewWdEAQYBSABEgIDI_D_BwE
DR Strings DDT-55 Drop-Down-Tuning Bass Strings 55-115

Just curious bc I’m working on playing in drop tuning at the moment, but was unsure how well they handle E tuning as I sometimes switch back to standard tuning depending on what I’m playing...

Mostly just wondering how well they perform and if I should look at stringing my backup bass to them if I can’t easily switch back to standard tuning with these...

If you play something similar in terms of gauge/tuning I’m still interested...

Currently playing the DR Black Beauties heavy gauge (.110 for E) and I really like them so a bit hesitant to change strings but also intrigued by them...

Realize I could’ve posted this question to the general forum, but feel like I get better advice and responses to my questions on this thread...

Thanks! \m/
Have you tried the drop tuning with your normal strings? A lot of people will tune to drop D without changing strings and they're fine with it.
 
I had those a year or two ago when doing more drop stuff, but I can't remember if they were good/bad. I know LaBella makes strings for that too.....there's been a lot of talk about this stuff on this thread in the past so do a search on this thread only.
 
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Have you tried the drop tuning with your normal strings? A lot of people will tune to drop D without changing strings and they're fine with it.
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Yep, I’ve been playing drop D with the Black Beauty .110 Heavy Gauge strings I was referring to above...

A bit sloppy, but I think I just need to get use to a slightly looser string tension and I’m also trying to remember where standard tuning notes are in D vs E tuning which is also further messing w my head at the moment bc I need more practice in that tuning for it to make sense...

To clarify-I’m aware of where the notes are in D tuning by comparison to E tuning, but songs I learned in E tuning I’m now trying to play in drop to see if I really understand the songs I was trying to learn in standard tuning...

I also was trying to learn more mainstream Thrash/Groove Metal songs, but that was before I got the idea to eventually/hopefully start my own Doom Metal band...If that’s the kind of music I’m gonna try to play I need to be practicing in at least D (maybe eventually C)...

Pardon the digression (probably a bit common on this thread eh??? ;-) )...

I was also curious about those particular strings bc if I remember right someone mentioned to me last Fall that .110 was pretty much the heaviest string the neck could comfortably take for E tuning, but now I’m not sure if he meant the string tension or the nut with which would need filing (I have a jazz neck on my go to bass at the moment & I’m not sure if a standard P neck is slightly “better” for heavier strings and drop tuning (and by “better” I mean more compliant/better tool for the job)...No idea if a fatter neck is more suited for drop D or drop C tuning was my point here...

For the record-I have absolutely no idea if that’s true about .110 gauge being the heaviest gauge you “should” use for E tuning so I’m actually trying to figure out if that’s true vs accidentally spreading misinformation bc I have no idea...

Pardon the ramble...I happen to be...Um...In a really good headspace at the moment if you know what I mean (and I think you do since we live in the same state)...

Listening to Monster Magnet while I type this surely isn’t hurting anything for me at the moment I might add...

Thanks! \m/
 
Haven't tried the DDTs specifically, but I have tried a few different DR strings (the Bootzillas and the Sunbeams) and found them too "spanky" for me. Not stiff enough and a brittle presence in the highs that reminds me why I switched to flats in the first place. (I've since switched back to rounds - Roto 66, which have objectively too much top-end, but they grind rather than spank.)
 
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I also was trying to learn more mainstream Thrash/Groove Metal songs, but that was before I got the idea to eventually/hopefully start my own Doom Metal band...If that’s the kind of music I’m gonna try to play I need to be practicing in at least D (maybe eventually C)...
Do what makes you happy. If playing doom in E standard floats your boat, do it.
 
Do what makes you happy. If playing doom in E standard floats your boat, do it.
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Yeah-To clarify-I don’t know if I necessarily “prefer” playing in E-I just meant it’s what I got used to playing non Doom stuff...

I’m not sure it’s a “preference “ just more familiar at this point...

I suppose playing down tuned isn’t a “requirement “ per se, but probably usually sounds better/supports most Doom songs better than playing in E...

Thanks! \m/
 
I suppose playing down tuned isn’t a “requirement “ per se, but probably usually sounds better/supports most Doom songs better than playing in E...
It's a double-edged sword. Producing the lower frequencies is more difficult for cabs, and you start to realize that there are very, very few cabs out there that can produce the lowest frequencies. Then you also run into the headaches of trying to get those really low notes to have some definition. All of this can be done, but it can be a pain depending on how deep down the rabbit hole you want to go.
 
@lucas303 is right. Hertz floors of cabs are sometimes higher than what a standard tuned 5 string can effectively produce. This means the notes you hear will be the transients and harmonics much more so than the fundamental. Between that and the need for much more wattage to push a low B than a B one active higher, make it difficult to produce proper/true notes lower than about 30hz. That 30hz, in the neighborhood of a low B on bass, takes much more time and energy to produce effectively thus potentially causing issues as far as usability of anything lower. Anyone remember the Dark Lord Warwick bass? Unless you have a few thousand watts and highly efficient cabs, it’s relatively ineffective.

imho ymmv afaik
 
Fwiw the Dark Lord bass was tuned F#, B, E, A. The low F# rattles in at 23hz. People with good low end hearing can hear down to about 20hz. Many people don’t have that. Most cabs can’t produce it. Most power amps will not be able to produce that low of a tone effectively without some issues. I’m “that guy” that says anything under a low B on bass is not really necessary for a fundamental. That being said, I don’t see an issue with A standard tuning, but wouldn’t go any further just for the fact of it being unable to be reproduced on most listening devices wether it be a car stereo, earbuds, headphones, or studio monitors. At least not without breaking the bank multiple times over.

I shall digress and go back to talking about lint and other trivialities...
 
I'm all about the low frequencies, and I'm not going to dissuade anyone from trying to go low, but at the same time I'm a realist. I've got a Dingwall that goes up to 37" scale length and I tried tuning down to F#. Even with plenty of amp power and an Acme Low B2 cab, I wasn't thrilled with the sound of that F#.

I've settled on A standard, and that A is below 30 Hz. I can make that A with my Acme and Barefaced cabs, but I wouldn't want to try doing it at "stage volume" without more amps and cabs. I've settled on A standard not because I think it's necessary for any particular genre, but because I want to be able to make sounds that low, I like having the open D string, and I'm not keen on drop tuning. Personal preference.

So anyway @El_Charro I'd say just tune to what suits you and, as the lovely ladies of En Vogue sang, the rest will follow.
 
@lucas303 is right. Hertz floors of cabs are sometimes higher than what a standard tuned 5 string can effectively produce. This means the notes you hear will be the transients and harmonics much more so than the fundamental. Between that and the need for much more wattage to push a low B than a B one active higher, make it difficult to produce proper/true notes lower than about 30hz. That 30hz, in the neighborhood of a low B on bass, takes much more time and energy to produce effectively thus potentially causing issues as far as usability of anything lower. Anyone remember the Dark Lord Warwick bass? Unless you have a few thousand watts and highly efficient cabs, it’s relatively ineffective.

imho ymmv afaik
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Thank you for providing this information...That makes sense from an equipment perspective that you are only as strong as the weakest link in your overall signal chain...

Just trying to figure out what I do and don’t need at the moment from a rig perspective, so I appreciate the insights...

Thanks! \m/
 
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I'm all about the low frequencies, and I'm not going to dissuade anyone from trying to go low, but at the same time I'm a realist. I've got a Dingwall that goes up to 37" scale length and I tried tuning down to F#. Even with plenty of amp power and an Acme Low B2 cab, I wasn't thrilled with the sound of that F#.

I've settled on A standard, and that A is below 30 Hz. I can make that A with my Acme and Barefaced cabs, but I wouldn't want to try doing it at "stage volume" without more amps and cabs. I've settled on A standard not because I think it's necessary for any particular genre, but because I want to be able to make sounds that low, I like having the open D string, and I'm not keen on drop tuning. Personal preference.

So anyway @El_Charro I'd say just tune to what suits you and, as the lovely ladies of En Vogue sang, the rest will follow.
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Lol-Does smoking something green at 20 minutes after 4pm count as “freeing your mind”???...

Asking for a friend... ;-)

Thanks! \m/