Already did. Nothing obvious and haven't been able to crank it up again to the same volume level that created the noise before.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Team Trace Elliott Pt 3
- Thread starter Chef
- Start date
- Status
Already did. Nothing obvious and haven't been able to crank it up again to the same volume level that created the noise before.
Well, I've tried several times to upload a pic off my galaxy and It's not working. What is it a pic of you ask ? My V-4 ! Whoo ! Whoo ! I just played it for few hours through my Genz Benz 6-10 and sounds pretty sick. I also picked up an Ah600 on a great deal and I'll be trying that one next week. I'm noticing that Trace amps sound especially nice with P-basses.
So, I removed the grill, removed the speakers - nothing obviously causing a major rattle.
Took the amp out of the cab and... here's the problem. Seriously, how was the amp even working? this guy was rattling around loose inside the chassis.
Anybody have any idea how much this is going to cost me at the repair shop on Monday?
Attachments
I test-drove an AH250 and a 2x15 cab and had I the $$$ it would have been mine. What it lacked in highs and definition (just not enough for my tastes) it more than made up for in punch and girth - like getting kicked by a mule. I could have lived with it easily.
Enjoy, mate...
Raz
Does anyone else hear output from their cab when they have the mute switch ON (meaning the sound is muted) and they dime the output knob? I did this just to test the amp I looked at; does that mean signal is bleeding through somewhere or what?
Also, has anyone tried changing out the bulbs that light up the green surrounds? Is that a hard task?
How much is an average trip to BAS? If I get this amp, rather than fool with it myself I'd rather send it to the experts and know that when it comes back it will be at 100%. I'm guestimating around $225 plus shipping both ways, probably around $300 or so.
It would be a shame to get this amp and leave it as-is, even though it seems to work OK other than light popping when muting/changing presets and light static when moving the EQ sliders.
Thanks again...
Raz
Also, has anyone tried changing out the bulbs that light up the green surrounds? Is that a hard task?
How much is an average trip to BAS? If I get this amp, rather than fool with it myself I'd rather send it to the experts and know that when it comes back it will be at 100%. I'm guestimating around $225 plus shipping both ways, probably around $300 or so.
It would be a shame to get this amp and leave it as-is, even though it seems to work OK other than light popping when muting/changing presets and light static when moving the EQ sliders.
Thanks again...
Raz
I don't know how much an actual shop will charge, but I am an electronics tech and build mil spec boards for a living. I can't tell from the pic but the board itself or the barrels themselves doesn't appear damaged, looks like the legs got pulled out of the cap. Which is kind of wierd. Anyway aside from the cost of the cap. (You can check pricing at digikey or mouser) looks like they'll have to lift the board, remove the legs, clean the barrels, install the cap and put it back together. Assuming that they can lift it up without having to disconnect to much, and this being the only thing wrong, it shouldnt take no more than 2 hours tops.
EDIT oops didn't see the black marks on the board, that cap got blown off. Hopfully just a bad cap, and hopefully not the symptom of bigger probs.
Guys I have a problem with my 2001 AH300 12 (with GP12X pre).
The cooling fan in the powersection of this amp is supposed to start when the amp is running hot. You've guessed it: It does not.
The amp overheats and goes into protection after two minutes.
I have had it "repaired" twice last month in a local shop (ended up replacing the volume pot myself after their second failure) and ever since its been there the fan will not switch on.
Before it was "fixed" the fan was running at max speed 24/7 so I guess the power section was indeed b0rked, but its current state is not an improvement.
This is the power section:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Cooling fan is to be connected over here:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
I have been thinking of hooking up the fan to the AC input J10 and J11 instead and make it run 24/7. Would this be a good idea? If not, do you have any other suggestions?
Big thanks in advance!
Marco
The cooling fan in the powersection of this amp is supposed to start when the amp is running hot. You've guessed it: It does not.
The amp overheats and goes into protection after two minutes.
I have had it "repaired" twice last month in a local shop (ended up replacing the volume pot myself after their second failure) and ever since its been there the fan will not switch on.
Before it was "fixed" the fan was running at max speed 24/7 so I guess the power section was indeed b0rked, but its current state is not an improvement.
This is the power section:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Cooling fan is to be connected over here:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
I have been thinking of hooking up the fan to the AC input J10 and J11 instead and make it run 24/7. Would this be a good idea? If not, do you have any other suggestions?
Big thanks in advance!
Marco
Does the fan not work when plugged in to the board? I had the same prob with the same board.. the ground wire of my fan just pulled right out of its connection point on the board, like it wasn't ecven connected. so I just reconnected it better and it fixed it.
I reconnected the original fan and another 12v fan that came from an old computer powersupply. The problem is the fan will probably only get switched on when needed. I will reconnect it and try in the rehearsal room to find out. The amp will never run hot enough for the fan to switch on in the living room here...
Ah that makes things a whole lot easier. I read in the manual that the 500 watt amp has two fans that switch on and off automatically and reckoned things would be the same on the 300 watt amp.
Quote:
FAN COOLING
Two 80mm fans are provided on the back panel for cooling the 500 Watt output stage. These fans are stationary until the amplifier heats up to a critical temperature, they then automatically switch on to cool the output stage, turning off once again when the lower temperature threshold has been reached. This is to keep the amplifier silent for studio or practice use with the fans only operating as and when they need to.
Quote:
FAN COOLING
Two 80mm fans are provided on the back panel for cooling the 500 Watt output stage. These fans are stationary until the amplifier heats up to a critical temperature, they then automatically switch on to cool the output stage, turning off once again when the lower temperature threshold has been reached. This is to keep the amplifier silent for studio or practice use with the fans only operating as and when they need to.
Email British audio service and see if you can request a service manual for this head. It will help debugging this tremendously! I can tell you I replaced an entire fan circuit on one of the power modules in my ah1200, and shipping included I think the parts cost me around 15 to 20 bucks, and probably wouldn't have been that much if I didn't order some spares!
Thanks Aragorn, will drop them an e-mail.
I plan to use the (Gibson era) amp as a backup amp. The older SMX series amp sounds tighter and cleaner in the mids so that one will remain my main amp.
Here's a pic of my current Trace stack just for eyecandy's sake...
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
I plan to use the (Gibson era) amp as a backup amp. The older SMX series amp sounds tighter and cleaner in the mids so that one will remain my main amp.
Here's a pic of my current Trace stack just for eyecandy's sake...
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
- Status
