I think this pic really captures the vibe of my Marilyn:
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Very nice. Voluptuous and chocolatey. Kind of makes me want to eat your bass...

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I think this pic really captures the vibe of my Marilyn:
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Could you remind me which one you got, and what you didn't like about it?Did I tell you guys the whole ash/walnut+ash/maple thing didn't work for me and I sold the bass again?
Guess it's time to try something totally different, maybe even the "traditional" poplar/wenge/wenge combo...
Cheers,
EG
I bought it here on TB from xkimsungminx (Paul), a lovely ash/walnut, ash/maple 535-24. It was an '07 or '08 NAMM bass, so extra juicy to look at! There was actually nothing wrong with it, I just didn't like the sound as much as my previous ash/maple-burl, ash/ebony 535-24, so it didn't make sense to keep the money tied up in it. (And the neck was thicker, so slightly more hard work.) I completely got why that combo is so popular though, it has plenty of body and depth, plus a good bit of bite and aggression with a nice smoothness over the top. I think I just prefer dark-wood fretboards that have more strength in the 2-4K area, whereas the new one had more of a New York/Sadowsky vibe, with more bite between 4K and 8K. Just guessing on the frequencies, but you probably know what I'm getting at.Could you remind me which one you got, and what you didn't like about it?
Makes sense.I bought it here on TB from xkimsungminx (Paul), a lovely ash/walnut, ash/maple 535-24. It was an '07 or '08 NAMM bass, so extra juicy to look at! There was actually nothing wrong with it, I just didn't like the sound as much as my previous ash/maple-burl, ash/ebony 535-24, so it didn't make sense to keep the money tied up in it. (And the neck was thicker, so slightly more hard work.) I completely got why that combo is so popular though, it has plenty of body and depth, plus a good bit of bite and aggression with a nice smoothness over the top. I think I just prefer dark-wood fretboards that have more strength in the 2-4K area, whereas the new one had more of a New York/Sadowsky vibe, with more bite between 4K and 8K. Just guessing on the frequencies, but you probably know what I'm getting at.
The other problem is that I haven't been playing much this year, due to work commitments, so I haven't been able to validate my bass purchases in the field. This can often lead to rash decisions, which I later regret!
Cheers,
EG
Wow, Sassafras, right? How did Mike describe that wood tonally?Seeing as you guys are so boring.....here's a tease...
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Well, I don't want to give too much away, that would be letting you guys score on teh first date. . But he did mention that it would "warm up" the woods that its being paired with.Wow, Sassafras, right? How did Mike describe that wood tonally?
Way cool! I'm guessing you're going with a maple/ebony neck then as well, but I'll let you eventually confirm if that's true.Well, I don't want to give too much away, that would be letting you guys score on teh first date. . But he did mention that it would "warm up" the woods that its being paired with.
It is Sassafras, Tasmanian Blackheart Sassafras to be exact. I think its a one of piece that Mike had as it was the only one available when I was scoping out tops. Funnily enough many years ago when I was in Tasmania on a holiday I saw some blackheart sass in shops there and wondered why no one had used if for a bass top yet. WHen this top was suggested to me, it was fate!![]()
Seeing as you guys are so boring...

Well, I already have a 535/21 and I'm doign a lot of chording stuff at the moment, so that would suggest a different configuration. But then again, I also have the 38 fret Ritter strung E-C so its not like I need the extra room....Way cool! I'm guessing you're going with a maple/ebony neck then as well, but I'll let you eventually confirm if that's true.
Lessee... going to warm up the tone a bit, so 535/21 is also my guess on this one.
I could be totally wrong, but since I don't have any money on this, who cares.![]()

Nice try at a redirect. I'm sticking with my predictions. If for no other reason than I don't care if I'm wrong, and it's just fun to say so.Well, I already have a 535/21 and I'm doign a lot of chording stuff at the moment, so that would suggest a different configuration. But then again, I also have the 38 fret Ritter strung E-C so its not like I need the extra room....
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I think the cutaway is slightly deeper on the 24 to allow access to the higher frets. The pickup cover thats exposed is slightly smaller. Otherwise there isn't a lot of difference. Its mostly a slap guy vs chord guy thing as a lot of splap players are used to slapping over the 20th or 21st fret and not the 24th (which can ring out harmonics).That's a good enough reason for a new question - how much different, in practice, is a 535-21 to a 24? There's obviously a bit more room for slapping, but is it that noticable? Is there any other differences due to the slightly shorter fingerboard?
Cheers,
EG
You mean the truss rod cover, right?I think the cutaway is slightly deeper on the 24 to allow access to the higher frets. The pickup cover thats exposed is slightly smaller.
Yep.Otherwise there isn't a lot of difference. Its mostly a slap guy vs chord guy thing as a lot of splap players are used to slapping over the 20th or 21st fret and not the 24th (which can ring out harmonics).
Its mostly a slap guy vs chord guy thing as a lot of splap players are used to slapping over the 20th or 21st fret and not the 24th (which can ring out harmonics).