The Official MTD USA Thread

[red_rhino]

Just now getting around to posting some pics of the latest addition to my All-Things-Tobias stable. Behold my new (to me) 2011 MTD 434-24. Ash body, maple burl top, wenge neck and board. The articulation and clarity of this bass is just amazing, and the harmonics ring for days.

I've been in love with the Super pickups and pre on my 535. Before I received this, I was idly wondering about having Mike & Daniel retrofit this bass with the newer electronics. But after playing for a week, I may just leave well-enough alone. This bass is a joy to play.

 

[PrimitiveMan]

Just now getting around to posting some pics of the latest addition to my All-Things-Tobias stable. Behold my new (to me) 2011 MTD 434-24. Ash body, maple burl top, wenge neck and board. The articulation and clarity of this bass is just amazing, and the harmonics ring for days.

I've been in love with the Super pickups and pre on my 535. Before I received this, I was idly wondering about having Mike & Daniel retrofit this bass with the newer electronics. But after playing for a week, I may just leave well-enough alone. This bass is a joy to play.

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I want to eat that neck it looks so good!

 

[DRay521]

Just now getting around to posting some pics of the latest addition to my All-Things-Tobias stable. Behold my new (to me) 2011 MTD 434-24. Ash body, maple burl top, wenge neck and board. The articulation and clarity of this bass is just amazing, and the harmonics ring for days.

I've been in love with the Super pickups and pre on my 535. Before I received this, I was idly wondering about having Mike & Daniel retrofit this bass with the newer electronics. But after playing for a week, I may just leave well-enough alone. This bass is a joy to play.

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I’ve been wanting to try that combo for years. Could you offer up any tonal comments?

 

[bass12]

I’ve been wanting to try that combo for years. Could you offer up any tonal comments?

I’ve had three 535s in that combo. They all sounded different from one another. One quality they did all share was a degree of noticeable compression.

 

[DRay521]

I’ve had three 535s in that combo. They all sounded different from one another. One quality they did all share was a degree of noticeable compression.

The wenge definitely does that. I’ve got a korina body with wenge neck/fb that’s super punchy, but lacks something in the low mids. My ash/walnut with maple/rosewood neck/fb is dripping with low mids, but isn’t quite as tight as the other. The mix of the two seems like an optimal combination. Not that I don’t love the two I’ve got.

 

[bass12]

The wenge definitely does that. I’ve got a korina body with wenge neck/fb that’s super punchy, but lacks something in the low mids. My ash/walnut with maple/rosewood neck/fb is dripping with low mids, but isn’t quite as tight as the other. The mix of the two seems like an optimal combination. Not that I don’t love the two I’ve got.

Sounds like you might really like my alder/maple/rosewood 535. Punchy, tight, great top end (if not as grindy as what I’ve gotten out of my ash-bodied MTDs). I also really liked the sound of the black limba/wenge/wenge 535 I had a number of years ago. Punchy but also very smooth and piano-like.

 

[red_rhino]

I’ve been wanting to try that combo for years. Could you offer up any tonal comments?

Incredibly focused and very bright. I actually cut the treble a bit, and I almost never do that. The previous owner strung it with D'Addario EXL-220 (light gauge), a nickel round. They work exceptionally well on this bass. I think steel rounds might be a bit too much. The neck is super comfortable to play, and the string-to-string balance is IMO exceptional.

By comparison, my 535 (mahogany) is thicker sounding. Not that the 434 sounds thin; it really cuts thru. The mids really define the sound. I've never been a big fan of the MTD EQ with the mids centered at 250, but it really adds a depth on this 434. My fav settings so far is with the mids @ 500, cut or boosted slightly, and the pickups blended toward the bridge pickup. All that said, it does a passible P-bass sound when you solo the neck pickup.

I think this would cut thru in a rock band with no problem. It's got so much articulation though, that I really want to try this out on some solo bass stuff, or perhaps with just another guitar and/or keyboard player.

I’ve had three 535s in that combo. They all sounded different from one another. One quality they did all share was a degree of noticeable compression.

I know what you mean; I had a wenge-neck Roscoe that had a lot of natural compression. This particular bass isn't like that. Focused, but not compressed. In fact, just a touch of compression from my LA-1A really adds to it.

Sounds like you might really like my alder/maple/rosewood 535. Punchy, tight, great top end (if not as grindy as what I’ve gotten out of my ash-bodied MTDs).

Agreed. My first MTD was an alder/maple/rosewood 535-21 that sounded just as you describe. Killer bass. I think the only reason I sold it was because I wanted 24 frets.

 

[bass12]

Incredibly focused and very bright. I actually cut the treble a bit, and I almost never do that. The previous owner strung it with D'Addario EXL-220 (light gauge), a nickel round. They work exceptionally well on this bass. I think steel rounds might be a bit too much. The neck is super comfortable to play, and the string-to-string balance is IMO exceptional.

By comparison, my 535 (mahogany) is thicker sounding. Not that the 434 sounds thin; it really cuts thru. The mids really define the sound. I've never been a big fan of the MTD EQ with the mids centered at 250, but it really adds a depth on this 434. My fav settings so far is with the mids @ 500, cut or boosted slightly, and the pickups blended toward the bridge pickup. All that said, it does a passible P-bass sound when you solo the neck pickup.

I think this would cut thru in a rock band with no problem. It's got so much articulation though, that I really want to try this out on some solo bass stuff, or perhaps with just another guitar and/or keyboard player.


I know what you mean; I had a wenge-neck Roscoe that had a lot of natural compression. This particular bass isn't like that. Focused, but not compressed. In fact, just a touch of compression from my LA-1A really adds to it.


Agreed. My first MTD was an alder/maple/rosewood 535-21 that sounded just as you describe. Killer bass. I think the only reason I sold it was because I wanted 24 frets.

When did you sell your alder 535? I wonder if I’m the current owner...

 

[red_rhino]

When did you sell your alder 535? I wonder if I’m the current owner...

Long ago. (Like 15+ years). I suppose it's possible that it migrated from California to Canada. I didn't sell it on TB. Post a pic. Even if it's not the same bass, I always enjoy looking at MTDs.

 

[bass12]

Long ago. (Like 15+ years). I suppose it's possible that it migrated from California to Canada. I didn't sell it on TB. Post a pic. Even if it's not the same bass, I always enjoy looking at MTDs.

The bass did actually make its way from California to Montreal (though not directly). It was originally purchased at Gelb music. The only photo I have on hand is from a former owner (I'm always a bit hesitant about posting other people's photos, so hopefully it's okay ). I've had the bass for about ten years now.

 

[red_rhino]

The bass did actually make its way from California to Montreal (though not directly). It was originally purchased at Gelb music. The only photo I have on hand is from a former owner (I'm always a bit hesitant about posting other people's photos, so hopefully it's okay ). I've had the bass for about ten years now.

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Hmmmm.... given that I purchased my bass at Gelb, and it looked an awful lot like that one, then there's an excellent chance that it's the same bass. I went looking for a pic in my archives, but couldn't find one. (I also have a vague memory of an alder MTD with a maple board, so now I wonder if my brain is conjuring a mashup of several MTDs I've owned over the years.) I can say though that the picture you posted is not from me.

IIRC, when I sold it, I consigned it at Gelb when I bought its replacement 535-24 (also at Gelb).

 

[bass12]

Hmmmm.... given that I purchased my bass at Gelb, and it looked an awful lot like that one, then there's an excellent chance that it's the same bass. I went looking for a pic in my archives, but couldn't find one. (I also have a vague memory of an alder MTD with a maple board, so now I wonder if my brain is conjuring a mashup of several MTDs I've owned over the years.) I can say though that the picture you posted is not from me.

IIRC, when I sold it, I consigned it at Gelb when I bought its replacement 535-24 (also at Gelb).

Interesting! Given that alder 535s are not all that common it wouldn’t surprise me at all if this was your old bass.

 

[Taustin Powers]

The mid frequency toggle on my 435 has become loose, and it’s affecting the electronics‘ functionality. Sometimes, the mid pot has no effect in low mid position, sometimes in high mid. When I wiggle the toggle around a little bit, it will work again momentarily. I can get all three positions to work, but not reliably.

Any pointers on how I can tighten the switch again? Is that likely to solve the problem? Do I need to remove the shielding? In the control cavity?

 

[bass12]

The mid frequency toggle on my 435 has become loose, and it’s affecting the electronics‘ functionality. Sometimes, the mid pot has no effect in low mid position, sometimes in high mid. When I wiggle the toggle around a little bit, it will work again momentarily. I can get all three positions to work, but not reliably.

Any pointers on how I can tighten the switch again? Is that likely to solve the problem? Do I need to remove the shielding? In the control cavity?

I’d email Mike and ask him.

 

[bass12]

The mid frequency toggle on my 435 has become loose, and it’s affecting the electronics‘ functionality. Sometimes, the mid pot has no effect in low mid position, sometimes in high mid. When I wiggle the toggle around a little bit, it will work again momentarily. I can get all three positions to work, but not reliably.

Any pointers on how I can tighten the switch again? Is that likely to solve the problem? Do I need to remove the shielding? In the control cavity?

I’d email Mike and ask him.

 

[Taustin Powers]

I’d email Mike and ask him.

I did. He said the switch probably needs to be replaced.

I managed to tighten it just using the washer on the front. It works a little better, but still not 100%.

I'll take it to a local luthier this week, he will probably know what to do.

 

[Vic]

I did. He said the switch probably needs to be replaced.

I managed to tighten it just using the washer on the front. It works a little better, but still not 100%.

I'll take it to a local luthier this week, he will probably know what to do.

I'm confused. Is the switch internally sloppy/worn, or are you just talking about the switch being "loose" in it's mounting hole? If the latter, should be a simple matter of tightening the nut unless it, or its nut, is stripped.

 

[evilgus]

Maybe there’s a dodgy/dry solder point on the switch itself, would be pretty easy for a luthier or electronics person to fix. It was many years ago, but the mid-control on my 535 stopped working and I just had to reheat and cool the solder on each lug, to fix it.

EG

 

[Taustin Powers]

I'm confused. Is the switch internally sloppy/worn, or are you just talking about the switch being "loose" in it's mounting hole? If the latter, should be a simple matter of tightening the nut unless it, or its nut, is stripped.

A little bit of both, I guess. I managed to tighten the nut, but the switch itself is still a little wiggly, and it's not working reliably. I played it at rehearsal last night, and it worked fine. But I know if I wiggle the switch a little, I can get it to not work.

Hopefully I'll have time to take it to a tech on Thursday.

 

[Taustin Powers]

Anyone have basses with these crazy beautiful blue/yellow/green finishes? Let’s see those Nebulas, Ocean Fades and what have you!