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The Soundgear Club

The SR300E neck start appear less stable in minor temperature changing condition. My both Squier pbass neck has no such problem.

Any solutions ?
It is the trade off necessary to deliver a nice thin neck on a 6lb. bass under $300. If you want super stability the MusicMan basses will be more stable, but also a lot heavier. Not to mention multiples more expensive.
 
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MIK SR705 neck are absolutely solid and stable

I had a MIK BTB with a really stiff neck, but that thing was nearly 10 lbs..
I also had a 2008 Indonesia-made SRX with a really stiff neck.


Before I decide to sell the sr300E, maybe I will try apply super glue coat plus poly spray on the neck.

IMHO it's not worth keeping if the neck is also flimsy, which is most likely.
Tune it up to E Standard, check the neck relief & action (measure them).
Now down-tune it to D or C Standard & check again. On the SR300EB I had, it would become unplayable below D Standard.

OTOH I had a SR300E (no B) that had a very stiff neck, but the local luthier pointed out how twisted it was.
It's kind of the luck of the draw, but I think more SR models are going to have flimsy necks than the BTB series.

The odds of getting a nice stiff neck on a sub-Premium SR are low these days, but that's just my assessment from a couple. (and also hearsay)
Once you get into the Premium & Prestige line, they've got Titanium reinforcement bars & are stiffer & more stable.

You can get a pre-owned Premium SR for under $1K USD.
I'd recommend the SR1400TE. (neck-through)
 
does anyone have an SR924?
this one's a NT NT (natural neck through)
s-l1600.jpg
 
I have a ad for SDGR basses which dates from about '92 which was when the AFR pick ups were first introduced as it says that the AFR is ''Designed in the USA'' I have a spare set of AFR's and the wires have some writing on them in some language or other..maybe Korean??..I always been under the impression that the AFR's were made for Ibanez in Korea by the company Mighty Mite which is related to the Korean Cort company in a similar way that the Bartolini MK series are ''American desgned'' but made in Korea..i have two SR800's one has EMG PJ...the other has AFR's and they don't sound like EMG"s..much fuller sound...like it says...Active Full Range..

Lesile
My wires have Kuk je tong printed on them. Korean company. Invalid Link Removed
 
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I had a MIK BTB with a really stiff neck, but that thing was nearly 10 lbs..
I also had a 2008 Indonesia-made SRX with a really stiff neck.




IMHO it's not worth keeping if the neck is also flimsy, which is most likely.
Tune it up to E Standard, check the neck relief & action (measure them).
Now down-tune it to D or C Standard & check again. On the SR300EB I had, it would become unplayable below D Standard.

OTOH I had a SR300E (no B) that had a very stiff neck, but the local luthier pointed out how twisted it was.
It's kind of the luck of the draw, but I think more SR models are going to have flimsy necks than the BTB series.

The odds of getting a nice stiff neck on a sub-Premium SR are low these days, but that's just my assessment from a couple. (and also hearsay)
Once you get into the Premium & Prestige line, they've got Titanium reinforcement bars & are stiffer & more stable.

You can get a pre-owned Premium SR for under $1K USD.
I'd recommend the SR1400TE. (neck-through)

Sold the SR300E yesterday. Decide to get the fender Player P.
 
On the SR300EB I had, it would become unplayable below D Standard.

OTOH I had a SR300E (no B) that had a very stiff neck, but the local luthier pointed out how twisted it was.
It's kind of the luck of the draw, but I think more SR models are going to have flimsy necks than the BTB series.

The odds of getting a nice stiff neck on a sub-Premium SR are low these days, but that's just my assessment from a couple. (and also hearsay)
Once you get into the Premium & Prestige line, they've got Titanium reinforcement bars & are stiffer & more stable.

You can get a pre-owned Premium SR for under $1K USD.
I'd recommend the SR1400TE. (neck-through)

The 300EB comes with a 5 piece maple/rosewood neck. The 300E, 5 piece maple/walnut.
I'm guessing here. But I would say there's your difference in stiffness between the two necks.

The neck on my new 2018 SR400EQM (purple space burst) is really stiff, fast, and exceptionally stable, especially for Alabama and all the high humidity we have to deal with. And it's been getting dragged out of the house to the car, to the bar, and back, in a gig bag, in sweltering humidity, rain, and now the cold, every week since the end of August. I also have no problems tuning down to C and keeping it there. I haven't tried dropping to B, have had no need too. It's neck is 5 piece, maple/walnut with a Jatoba fretboard.

Now there is a SR400EQM (Dragon Eye burst), kind of a tobacco sunburst, and it is the same guitar as mine except for color, and neck. The neck on it is 5 piece maple/rosewood like the 300EB. It would be interesting to be able to sit down with both versions of the SR400EQM side by side and see that the playability differences are. And there is one more version of the SR400EQM that has the same maple/walnut neck as mine, but a maple fingerboard instead of Jatoba.

And here's the really interesting thing about the SR300s vs the SR400s. They are exactly the same, come in the same wood options, electronics, etc... except for... the 400s have quilted maple tops. Other than that, they appear to be the same guitars.

Maybe it really is just luck of the draw when buying guitars these days. The majority are mass produced all over the planet.
 
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Joining the club with my first SDGR - 1999 MIK SR400 in "vintage blue." Looks more like dolphin gray with a hint of violet. The neck, though on the thin side, is still arrow-straight with nice fret ends. I have chrome flats on it, and the soft maple body thuds with focused authority - the main reason I took a chance and ordered this site-unseen. The stock pickups and active electronics... meh. I ripped everything out and went passive V-V-T with 3-way toggle and kill switch, which filled up the control holes nicely. I have a Wilde P-46 in the neck and a Fender SCN in the bridge. Killer bass! I should have taken the dive sooner.

j4qKHq.jpg
 
Question to older SDGR owners with the P/J pup configuration. I needed to dremel the P pickup route a bit on my SR400 to get the replacement Wilde P-46 to fit. Are the any good aftermarket P pups that would drop right in? I "accidently:cautious:" bought a used ash-body MIJ SR640 and also plan to upgrade.
 
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Question to older SDGR owners with the P/J pup configuration. I needed to dremel the P pickup route a bit on my SR400 to get the replacement Wilde P-46 to fit. Are the any good aftermarket P pups that would drop right in? I "accidently:cautious:" bought a used ash-body MIJ SR640 and also plan to upgrade.

What year is your SR 400? Your serial number should start with a C and the number after it is the model year.