The HB Shorty is not the current HB PB Shorty, which is a shorty P clone. The Shorty has been discontinued for a few years, but is still fairly common as a used bass in the local want ads.
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The Squier Mini Precision Bass Club
- Thread starter sabre79
- Start date
if i could only keep one, it would be the bronco - i find a 30" scale is a bit more versatile for me than a 28.6" scale, and i find a play a little faster on the bronco neck.
the mini P is lighter, and it's a lot of fun. the bronco - well, i've owned 2, played many, and while QC isn't worse than the mini P, that weird bridge makes intonating a hassle. my current bronco is well intonated, which is luck of the draw. my mini needed tons of minor work, all doable at home.
Do you also have a Small Guitars bass? What do you think of that compared with the Mini P?
Do you also have a Small Guitars bass? What do you think of that compared with the Mini P?
i have a smallguitars MB2, the current model of their bass.
the smallguitar bass has a much shorter scale, so you can expect more buzz. i got it for 2 very specific reasons related to shoulder damage - it's the only bass other than the traveler ultra light bass, acoustic ubass and the hofner violin bass - that weigh in at under 5 pounds, so i can play it standing up. also when my should has acute periods, i can play it due to its small body and short scale.
none of those things apply to the mini P. that being said, if you don't have physical limitation that affect your bass playing, there's possibly no reason to get a smallguitars bass unless you like curling up on the couch around a very small bass and playing while you watch tv or just relax, and it's great for that due to its short scale. i found the smallguitars bass to be a bit higher quality overall then the mini.
if you don't mind a little wrap on the peg, which hasn't been a problem for me, you can use the mini P with some standard short scale strings, which you can't do with the smallguitar bass due to it having an about 4" shorter scale. but you can buy custom strings for not too much, which is what i did.
the greg bennet mini bass (a corsair mini, i think) can be got used cheaper than the smallguitar bass.
but the mini P is a truly fun bass, it sounds much better than i expected for the price, and it's easy to mod, with many drop-in options and pre-shaped pickguards available, it costs less than half d of what the smallguitars MB2 costs, and of course, you get the support of everyone in this club
and if you get a black mini P and stick a tort pickguard on it, you instantly have a smaller version of the classic p bass
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First, you must understand that it is not a question of 'need'.
It NEVER is, around TB.
I am in an interesting position of currently owning none of the basses which you mentioned, but have been paying attention to what others have been saying upthread and in other TB threads, plus some of my own research and previous experience.
And I do have an answer for your question, with several reasons for it.
All are fairly lightweight, meaning that any could likely qualify on that basis alone.
I would choose a budget bass similar to Volker's Harley Benton, and I have, but a different brand, and for most of the same reasons that he did.
1) P-style split pickup, because it cancels hum, and likely sounds better too. - All except the Squier Bronco have this.
2) Scale length is 30", so it's MUCH easier to find strings which properly fit the scale, without special ordering from someone such as Pyramid [or Newtone, I think it is]. - All except the Squier Mini-P have this.
3) Width at the nut - The Bronco, the Harley Benton shorty models, and my Jay Turser JTB-40 are all wider than the Mini-P, and I prefer wider.
4) Maple fingerboard - Of these models, only the Squier Bronco has that [and some Mustangs do, albeit for significantly more money].
5) 4 bridge saddles are better than 2 for setting intonation, and all have 4, EXCEPT for the Bronco .
6) Shell Pink colour - The Bronco and a model of the [also more expensive] Mustang were built in a special edition in pink, each in limited quantities and not sold in all countries.
The bottom line is that except for the bridge and the pickup, the Squier Bronco gets a lot of good marks.
However, the Squier Mini-P satisfies those two, and most of the other factors.
And except for the colour [if you wanted Shell Pink] and no Maple fingerboard, the Harley Benton PB Shorty and Jay Turser JTB-40 are decent choices.
One last thing : If you live in the EU, the Harley Benton PB Shorty is a STEAL !
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New bridge knobs output jack cts pots seymore duncan 1/4 pickup full size strap buttons pickguard and dr black beauty strings.
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That pickguard is a winner !
I'd like to get that material in a PG for at least one of my basses.
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08365PHH8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I highly recommend this output jack to anyone looking to change theirs. It grips unbelievably well
I highly recommend this output jack to anyone looking to change theirs. It grips unbelievably well
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Looks like a good part. Thanks.
As an Amazon Associate, TalkBass may receive commissions from qualifying purchases made via links on this site.
Hello all, I've had a few surgeries last 2 years, getting feeling back in hands and a short scale so far felt better and I just got the mini P bass and nearly cried as it felt even better than my Bronco I had modded as these issues began in my life.
Because this is such a perfect fit I seek to better it in many ways both tone so much as looks/feel/weight because it isn't going anywhere, resell value isn't of concern and so on.
First, hello, I wish to join the club here and get a number if such exists. Mine is a Dakota red one.
second, I have questions as it pertains to upgrading this and I don't wish to clog the board/highjack any threads or annoy anyone more than my rambling message here has succeeded in doing so I kindly ask if anyone can direct me to information as it would pertain to drop in replacement tuners and bridges and that sort of information.
I'm not seeking to shirk research but rather I get quite overwhelmed and neurotic (can't ya tell) and I wish to get myself on the faster path to beefing this bass up in a matter of ways than to further confuse myself if such can be avoided.
Thank you for the time and before you beat on me for anything related to my post; I come in peace, apologize for any failure to adhere to unwritten board protocol and well, in just still so darn happy such a small and lightweight bass exists in a way that I can have this and it feels so good to be heading back into being able to explore this cherished hobby of ours.
Because this is such a perfect fit I seek to better it in many ways both tone so much as looks/feel/weight because it isn't going anywhere, resell value isn't of concern and so on.
First, hello, I wish to join the club here and get a number if such exists. Mine is a Dakota red one.
second, I have questions as it pertains to upgrading this and I don't wish to clog the board/highjack any threads or annoy anyone more than my rambling message here has succeeded in doing so I kindly ask if anyone can direct me to information as it would pertain to drop in replacement tuners and bridges and that sort of information.
I'm not seeking to shirk research but rather I get quite overwhelmed and neurotic (can't ya tell) and I wish to get myself on the faster path to beefing this bass up in a matter of ways than to further confuse myself if such can be avoided.
Thank you for the time and before you beat on me for anything related to my post; I come in peace, apologize for any failure to adhere to unwritten board protocol and well, in just still so darn happy such a small and lightweight bass exists in a way that I can have this and it feels so good to be heading back into being able to explore this cherished hobby of ours.
I imagine your Mini needs a full setup, a good neck and fret polish and oiling of the fretboard.
IMHO if you replace anything you should step up in quality, otherwise it's unnecessary tinkering.
Definitely replace the strap buttons with standard ones.
If you don't like the stock tuners, Gotoh 707s are a drop in. I don't know if they are better though.
Any P pickup and bridge will fit.
Any aftermarket nut for Jazz basses will work (1.5 in/38 mm nut width), for example GraphTech Tusq or Tusq XL. Of course you can also make a bone nut from scratch.
If you want to replace the electronics it's an easy job but personally I haven't opened up my Mini so I don't know if the cavity needs to be enlarged to accept 24mm CTS pots. Keep in mind that if you rout the body you will remove the shielding paint so you will have to fix/redo the shielding.
A few posts up you can find info on replacement pickguards, vendor "earlpilanz" on eBay sells them but I think they're updating the template after a member here found it didn't fit perfectly.
For strings:
Any set of short scale rounds will work. Cutting down long scale rounds will not work because the tuner holes are too small and the low E won't fit.
Short scale D'Addario flats work very well, even though the E string wraps around the post for 1/4 of a turn. Because of that, any modern flatwound string for 30" basses should work but LaBellas probably won't because the E string might snap. The winding length for the Mini is less than 32". A member here has ordered custom-length flats from Pyramid.
String options are limited as you can see, especially when it comes to gauges.
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Honestly, once all the nuts and screws were tightened, I've had no issues with any of the hardware. The tuners hold tune, the bridge hold intonation, the pickups are growly, and the electronics are fine.
The only mods I've done to mine are block inlay stickers and color matching knobs that go to 11. I also plan on a (red or ivory) pearl pickguard in the near future.
I used Ibanez Mikro strings, which fit perfectly, except for the G, which was cut too short. I used a plain ol' nickel .045 roundwound cut to length.
If/when I start playing out again, I'll address the strap knobs.
Also, regarding your post, no huhu. At all. @pcake is our captain, and will probably get you sorted out with a number soonish. In the meantime, let's see some pics!
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I do not own one of these, because the 1.5" nut width does not suit me [same reason for not owning a Jazz], but have plenty of experience in setup and modding of guitars and basses, both physically and electronically.
The posts from Andare and Volker pretty much cover it, though please also note that many of the mods [which you will encounter when you read this entire thread] have been performed for aesthetic reasons and not due to necessity, such as black hardware and various alternate pickguards.
On full scale basses, many people encounter neck dive and/or heavy weight, and seek lighter weight tuners and/or heavier bridges to improve the balance and/or reduce the weight, even though the originals function fine, but for the Mini-P, these are not issues for most folks.
IF I was to buy a Mini-P, the ONLY changes which I would make from the get go, after checking and tightening all of the screws a bit, would be better strap buttons [prob'ly straplocks of some kind], and flatwound strings, subject to what I can find which may fit properly [I would choose heavier ones to improve pitch stability of the lower notes], and of course performing a full setup, which I would do for ALL new [and most used] instruments.
The next item, if only for looks, might be an alternate pickguard, and another seller on eBay got positive mention for these - theswee_33
https://www.ebay.ca/sch/theswee_33/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
BTW, the eBay seller earlpilanz offers many more parts than pickguards, and has a history there back to 2002, as I noticed the other day :
https://www.ebay.ca/sch/Guitar-Bass-Parts/181223/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=&_ssn=earlpilanz
One addition to Volker's info is that the Ibanez Mikro strings are roundwounds.
Also, Newtone is another string maker in UK, which offers custom length and gauge of bass strings, but only in roundwound, and a couple of other club members have ordered and like those, where Pyramid offers custom/bespoke bass strings in round, flat, and tapewound, AFAIK.
Newtone Strings – British Handmade Guitar Strings
Best wishes with your new bass !
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I want to add a bit to some of the string commentary - because I wouldn't agree with all of it.
- Almost none of the existing short scale strings will actually fit this bass without cutting. So it becomes a question of - which strings will survive cutting, and which will not.
- It all depends on how stiff the string is. If the string isn't too stiff, or, isn't too thick, it will possibly survive a cut. If it is too stiff, or, too thick, it will likely Not survive the cut. [talking mainly about the E string]
- Most flats will Not work. Some will, but, many will Not - because flats are usually far more brittle than rounds.
- Many rounds will work, but you want to keep the E gauge 105 or under - otherwise, the risk increases that the cut will fail.
- The stock strings are actually pretty good.
- Two sets of strings that I have successfully put on these basses, with cutting of the E: 105 Halfs by DAddario, and most recently, 105 GHS Round Core Bass Boomers. Round Core strings are softer than hex core, and far more likely to survive a cut.
- Almost none of the existing short scale strings will actually fit this bass without cutting. So it becomes a question of - which strings will survive cutting, and which will not.
- It all depends on how stiff the string is. If the string isn't too stiff, or, isn't too thick, it will possibly survive a cut. If it is too stiff, or, too thick, it will likely Not survive the cut. [talking mainly about the E string]
- Most flats will Not work. Some will, but, many will Not - because flats are usually far more brittle than rounds.
- Many rounds will work, but you want to keep the E gauge 105 or under - otherwise, the risk increases that the cut will fail.
- The stock strings are actually pretty good.
- Two sets of strings that I have successfully put on these basses, with cutting of the E: 105 Halfs by DAddario, and most recently, 105 GHS Round Core Bass Boomers. Round Core strings are softer than hex core, and far more likely to survive a cut.
