I added a playing card as a shim. Not as low as I want it to be but it’s playable.
I can’t justify paying $100 for setup for a $90 bass(I bought it used)
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The Squier Mini Precision Bass Club
- Thread starter sabre79
- Start date
I can’t justify paying $100 for setup for a $90 bass(I bought it used)
No need when a tech would also use a. card
I have a question if someone can answer it. This club seems like the spot to do it.
I did do a search but all the references to "strings" was for scale length, string type, winding length, flatwoulds, etc.
What I want to ask is what is the string spacing on the bridge for the Squier Mini P? 17mm? 18mm?
If anyone can tell me that I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
I did do a search but all the references to "strings" was for scale length, string type, winding length, flatwoulds, etc.
What I want to ask is what is the string spacing on the bridge for the Squier Mini P? 17mm? 18mm?
If anyone can tell me that I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
Feels standard 3/4” 19mm, I have not measured it, but have 7 standard 19mm basses and have never noticed anything odd about the spacing on either of my mini’s
Can someone post their wiring or tell me what I did wrong? I'm trying to reconnect the stock harness, but the tone knob is unresponsive. By the way, this is the most tedious PBass wiring I've seen. Lol.
Tedious? Did you mean hideous?
I haven't looked at mine ever, it works very well all stock for me but if I saw such a wiring job I'd rip it all out and start afresh. All the solder joints are all kinds of wrong, I'm surprised anything works.
Where do you connect the ground from the cavity? The one that screwed down on the body?
Haha yeah. Anyway, I dont understand why they splice the wires(white) for extra work. Wondering if it serves any purposeTedious? Did you mean hideous?
I haven't looked at mine ever, it works very well all stock for me but if I saw such a wiring job I'd rip it all out and start afresh. All the solder joints are all kinds of wrong, I'm surprised anything works.
Usually to the back of the volume pot but that needs to be connected to the output jack and in that diagram it isn't. It relies on there being foil under the pickguard that both pots touch but I wouldn't trust that
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It's for the better. I believe 24mm CTS pots should fit, pretty sure someone here did it, otherwise Bourns makes high quality pots that are smaller and will definitely fit in the cavity without having to hack at the wood.
Forgive me if you already know this, but:
- to avoid those ugly splayed wires either use pre-bonded wire like pushback cloth wire (Gavitt is a popular brand) - it's stranded but already tinned so it doesn't splay out and it can be shaped like solid core wire - or use regular stranded wire, in which case you strip it, twirl the strands together, tin them with solder so they stay together and then solder normally.
- the back of the volume pot is usually where all ground wires converge (aka star grounding). I like to melt small blobs of solder on its back, one per wire. Alternatively, you can use a thick component lead (from a cap or resistor) or tinned copper wire and solder it to the back of the pot on one end and to lug 1 of the volume pot on the other. Then you can hook your ground wires to this thick wire and solder all 4 together (pickup, bridge, shielding, tone pot). From there go to the ground lug on the output jack.
Sorry, but are the GB350 tuners a straight swap? No modifications needed?
got a pretty good deal on this. it was $65 on offerup, and it came with some accessories (strap, stand, metronome, little donner amp). i sold the accessories, grabbed a can of krylon from the garage (i hate refrigerator white on red), pulled a bridge that someone had given me out of the parts box (the stock bridge was fine, but i like the look of brass saddles), and here we are. total out of pocket: $16.
I patiently waited for my second Mini to pop up locally and this one did on Craigslist. Huge plus, it was only about 3 miles from home.
And a no brainer price to boot.
Guy bought it to record with and played it very little. Looks new and has the stock strings which aren't dead at all. Not new/zingy sounding but obviously not played much. Relief is right where I like it. Action and intonation is ok.
Only con is the Ends of the frets need some tlc. But that will motivate me to clear the clutter off my bench, so it's a good thing. Action at the nut is a tad high so I'll take care of that as well.
I wanted one with flats and one with rounds and now I'm set. It's tho one on the right.
And a no brainer price to boot.
Guy bought it to record with and played it very little. Looks new and has the stock strings which aren't dead at all. Not new/zingy sounding but obviously not played much. Relief is right where I like it. Action and intonation is ok.
Only con is the Ends of the frets need some tlc. But that will motivate me to clear the clutter off my bench, so it's a good thing. Action at the nut is a tad high so I'll take care of that as well.
I wanted one with flats and one with rounds and now I'm set. It's tho one on the right.
Joined back up - I had a dakota red one a few years back. I'm now committing to short scale and was looking for a P-pickup platform and got my Rascal a little bro:
I had some parts in the drawer and did it up with a Fender Hi-mass bridge, Gotoh Resolite tuners, and a G&L MFD pickup. So now it's basically my mini-SB1. It roars and still stayed under 6.5lbs with the mods.
I had some parts in the drawer and did it up with a Fender Hi-mass bridge, Gotoh Resolite tuners, and a G&L MFD pickup. So now it's basically my mini-SB1. It roars and still stayed under 6.5lbs with the mods.
I also have a HiMass bridge on my Mini P-Bass, totally great drop-in replacement.
