The Squier Mini Precision Bass Club

[craigb]

I ran into an interesting issue with my MiniP. When I put flatwound strings on it I found that the 1st fret F on the E string was far enough out of tune to sound bad when playing along with recordings (and I'm sure with other people, although I haven't taken it out of the house yet). The G-A were also out, but by less. Intonation is not perfectly set yet on the bass but it's close enough for government work and the amount of out-of-tuneness I was seeing was far beyond the intonation offset.

Granted the flatwounds were cut-down longscale sets (I've got a bunch of longscale strings and only one longscale bass left so I'm economizing) - .095 & .100 E webstring flats. They wrapped the full body of the string around the post a couple of winds.

When troubleshooting I tried establishing the witness point on both sides of the nut (small improvement but not enough to sound good) and then tried the original roundwounds -- those were spot on for what I'd expect the 1st fret F, sounded great, no issues. I checked my other short scales (30.x" scale) with flats and they were all fine for the 1st fret F being in tune. The same flat sets were fine for in-tuneness of the other 3 strings when fretted on the MiniP.

For now I put a set of GHS Pressurewounds on it (.096E) and they are fine even with a partial wrap of the full string body on the post. And they sound great, as expected.

My theory is the stiffness of the flats and the relatively short distance between the nut & E string tuner post are interfering with things when playing on the frets closest to the nut.

So my question for the TB hive mind is has anyone else seen this, and if not what flats are you using on your MiniPs that are in tune on the lowest frets of the E string? I know I'm a bit of an outlier in that I like light strings on my short scales (the GHS Precision flat 3020 set with .095E are my favorites) but I would think heavier flats would have even more of a problem with this. It can be expensive to just throw a bunch of flatwound sets at it and see if any work so I'm checking with other folks for their experience.

In many ways this is a non-problem because the bass sounds great with the pressurewounds and if that's how it stays it's not a problem - I'd just like the flexibility of being able to put flats on it if I want.

 

[tyohars]

NBD to my wife, you can find the full story here. Did anyone change the bridge, tuning machine and pickup for this bass?

 

[Makten]

I ran into an interesting issue with my MiniP. When I put flatwound strings on it I found that the 1st fret F on the E string was far enough out of tune to sound bad when playing along with recordings (and I'm sure with other people, although I haven't taken it out of the house yet). The G-A were also out, but by less. Intonation is not perfectly set yet on the bass but it's close enough for government work and the amount of out-of-tuneness I was seeing was far beyond the intonation offset.

Granted the flatwounds were cut-down longscale sets (I've got a bunch of longscale strings and only one longscale bass left so I'm economizing) - .095 & .100 E webstring flats. They wrapped the full body of the string around the post a couple of winds.

When troubleshooting I tried establishing the witness point on both sides of the nut (small improvement but not enough to sound good) and then tried the original roundwounds -- those were spot on for what I'd expect the 1st fret F, sounded great, no issues. I checked my other short scales (30.x" scale) with flats and they were all fine for the 1st fret F being in tune. The same flat sets were fine for in-tuneness of the other 3 strings when fretted on the MiniP.

For now I put a set of GHS Pressurewounds on it (.096E) and they are fine even with a partial wrap of the full string body on the post. And they sound great, as expected.

My theory is the stiffness of the flats and the relatively short distance between the nut & E string tuner post are interfering with things when playing on the frets closest to the nut.

So my question for the TB hive mind is has anyone else seen this, and if not what flats are you using on your MiniPs that are in tune on the lowest frets of the E string? I know I'm a bit of an outlier in that I like light strings on my short scales (the GHS Precision flat 3020 set with .095E are my favorites) but I would think heavier flats would have even more of a problem with this. It can be expensive to just throw a bunch of flatwound sets at it and see if any work so I'm checking with other folks for their experience.

In many ways this is a non-problem because the bass sounds great with the pressurewounds and if that's how it stays it's not a problem - I'd just like the flexibility of being able to put flats on it if I want.

The nut is most likely too high, or the slots in the nut are to narrow for the strings (which effectively makes the nut higher).

 

[craigb]

The nut is most likely too high, or the slots in the nut are to narrow for the strings (which effectively makes the nut higher).

I don't doubt/disagree that this is probably the case given the price point - but wouldn't that affect flats & rounds the same (assuming the same diameters for the strings)?

 

[Makten]

I don't doubt/disagree that this is probably the case given the price point - but wouldn't that affect flats & rounds the same (assuming the same diameters for the strings)?

Not necessarily. Flats with the same outer diameter have higher mass per length, which means they need higher tension for the same pitch. So, they might go more out of tune when they are stretched that little extra bit when pressing down to the first fret (if issues with the saddle is present).

Also, you'd have to measure them with calipers, because specified .105" isn't aways .105" in reality.

I'd start with checking the height (in relation to the frets) of the bottom of the slot in the nut. And that the string doesn't bind in the slot because it's too narrow or there is some sort of burr or similar.

Edit: It could also possibly be because you have wrapped the wound part around the tuning post, if for example the winding has separated from the core or something. Then I suppose strange things can happen that is hard to explain.

 

[lowplaces]

@craigb

Make sure you witness point is set on the string you are checking the action at the nut on. As the string clears the nut on the fretboard side there should be no curve.

See this thread for more on witness points. (click on the title)

Thread 'Witness Points: The Pictorial'

Apr 9, 2016

Setting witness points on strings often comes up as a suggestion to fix poor intonation, inability to set intonation due to lack of saddle travel, excessive string height and mysterious buzzes at the bridge or topnut. Witness points should be set on all strings on any stringed instrument. The principles and the problems caused are the same. The strings were changed on a BEAD 4 string with string through body and pictures taken before and after the witness points were set. The pics were converted to gray scale to make the text easier to read and filters used to enhance the strings.

A...

• mech
• Replies: 61
• Forum: Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]

• 

Check action at the nut on each string this way.

Fret the second fret on the third fret side of the second fret as shown in the photo. That photo is one of my Mini P's.

If the action is correct, the gap at the first fret should be minimal. But there should be a gap. If the string fretted at the second fret as pictured is touching the first fret, that strings' nut slot is cut too low.

I had to lower the nut action on both of my Mini's, all the string slots on both nuts.

 

[RodRy]

I ran into an interesting issue with my MiniP. When I put flatwound strings on it I found that the 1st fret F on the E string was far enough out of tune to sound bad when playing along with recordings (and I'm sure with other people, although I haven't taken it out of the house yet). The G-A were also out, but by less. Intonation is not perfectly set yet on the bass but it's close enough for government work and the amount of out-of-tuneness I was seeing was far beyond the intonation offset.

Granted the flatwounds were cut-down longscale sets (I've got a bunch of longscale strings and only one longscale bass left so I'm economizing) - .095 & .100 E webstring flats. They wrapped the full body of the string around the post a couple of winds.

When troubleshooting I tried establishing the witness point on both sides of the nut (small improvement but not enough to sound good) and then tried the original roundwounds -- those were spot on for what I'd expect the 1st fret F, sounded great, no issues. I checked my other short scales (30.x" scale) with flats and they were all fine for the 1st fret F being in tune. The same flat sets were fine for in-tuneness of the other 3 strings when fretted on the MiniP.

For now I put a set of GHS Pressurewounds on it (.096E) and they are fine even with a partial wrap of the full string body on the post. And they sound great, as expected.

My theory is the stiffness of the flats and the relatively short distance between the nut & E string tuner post are interfering with things when playing on the frets closest to the nut.

So my question for the TB hive mind is has anyone else seen this, and if not what flats are you using on your MiniPs that are in tune on the lowest frets of the E string? I know I'm a bit of an outlier in that I like light strings on my short scales (the GHS Precision flat 3020 set with .095E are my favorites) but I would think heavier flats would have even more of a problem with this. It can be expensive to just throw a bunch of flatwound sets at it and see if any work so I'm checking with other folks for their experience.

In many ways this is a non-problem because the bass sounds great with the pressurewounds and if that's how it stays it's not a problem - I'd just like the flexibility of being able to put flats on it if I want.

I have Pyramid Gold flatwounds on my little P-bass (not one of these, sorry) and they work so well that I'm still playing on them 20 years later!

I find them slightly more flexible than other flats I've tried, so maybe that's why I like how they work? Word of caution: they take some time to really settle in and even out. Mine took about 3 months to start to sound even, and about 3 years to really bloom into my favorite strings.

 

[HaphAsSard]

I ran into an interesting issue with my MiniP. When I put flatwound strings on it I found that the 1st fret F on the E string was far enough out of tune to sound bad when playing along with recordings (and I'm sure with other people, although I haven't taken it out of the house yet). The G-A were also out, but by less. Intonation is not perfectly set yet on the bass but it's close enough for government work and the amount of out-of-tuneness I was seeing was far beyond the intonation offset.

Granted the flatwounds were cut-down longscale sets (I've got a bunch of longscale strings and only one longscale bass left so I'm economizing) - .095 & .100 E webstring flats. They wrapped the full body of the string around the post a couple of winds.

When troubleshooting I tried establishing the witness point on both sides of the nut (small improvement but not enough to sound good) and then tried the original roundwounds -- those were spot on for what I'd expect the 1st fret F, sounded great, no issues. I checked my other short scales (30.x" scale) with flats and they were all fine for the 1st fret F being in tune. The same flat sets were fine for in-tuneness of the other 3 strings when fretted on the MiniP.

For now I put a set of GHS Pressurewounds on it (.096E) and they are fine even with a partial wrap of the full string body on the post. And they sound great, as expected.

My theory is the stiffness of the flats and the relatively short distance between the nut & E string tuner post are interfering with things when playing on the frets closest to the nut.

So my question for the TB hive mind is has anyone else seen this, and if not what flats are you using on your MiniPs that are in tune on the lowest frets of the E string? I know I'm a bit of an outlier in that I like light strings on my short scales (the GHS Precision flat 3020 set with .095E are my favorites) but I would think heavier flats would have even more of a problem with this. It can be expensive to just throw a bunch of flatwound sets at it and see if any work so I'm checking with other folks for their experience.

In many ways this is a non-problem because the bass sounds great with the pressurewounds and if that's how it stays it's not a problem - I'd just like the flexibility of being able to put flats on it if I want.

I have Pyramid Gold flatwounds on my little P-bass (not one of these, sorry) and they work so well that I'm still playing on them 20 years later!

I find them slightly more flexible than other flats I've tried, so maybe that's why I like how they work? Word of caution: they take some time to really settle in and even out. Mine took about 3 months to start to sound even, and about 3 years to really bloom into my favorite strings.

Just as an FYI, there is a set of Pyramid Gold flatwounds whose full-gauge winding length fits the Squier Mini Precision. All it needs is some bridge-end silk removal (cigarette lighter, X-acto knife, rinse and repeat as needed) because it is sold as a fractional (kid-size) double-bass set:

Squier Mini P (28.6" scale) strings: a roundwound option + a LaBella flat alternative (Pyramid Gold)​

Pyramid Gold Orchester E-Bass Satz (kleine Größen) von Pyramid
^ (1/32 variant)

Outside Europe (I have a feeling the set is a Mastri/bassico exclusive), one might as well order them with the proper silk length, directly from the factory. I believe an email in English will suffice.

 

[RodRy]

Just as an FYI, there is a set of Pyramid Gold flatwounds whose full-gauge winding length fits the Squier Mini Precision. All it needs is some bridge-end silk removal (cigarette lighter, X-acto knife, rinse and repeat as needed) because it is sold as a fractional (kid-size) double-bass set:

Squier Mini P (28.6" scale) strings: a roundwound option + a LaBella flat alternative (Pyramid Gold)​

Pyramid Gold Orchester E-Bass Satz (kleine Größen) von Pyramid
^ (1/32 variant)

Outside Europe (I have a feeling the set is a Mastri/bassico exclusive), one might as well order them with the proper silk length, directly from the factory. I believe an email in English will suffice.

I can say that I have ordered a custom length set of Pyramid Gold flatwounds to the length I needed. No extra cost, and delivered to me in about 2 weeks.

Money well spent!

 

[Crackle]

Here is my 2024 Squier Mini bass. I have done the following:

- Replaced the original junk strap buttons with proper Dunlop strap buttons.
- Fret edges filed.
- Nut cut to the correct depth.
- Replaced all electronics with an EMG GZR P pickup and harness.
- Replaced the white pickguard with a custom-made chrome mirror. Perfect fit.
- Replaced the knobs with domed knobs with set screws.

It currently has D'Addario EXL160s strings installed. Just the right tension with brightness.

All of that done, this bass does not have the natural piano-like tone of a 34-inch scale bass. I understand this is a consequence of short-scale basses. They just sound unnatural to my ears.

 

[craigb]

I want to thank everyone for all the suggestions with my MiniP. In the end I punted and returned it (one of the reasons I've started buying most things through either GC or Amazon - ease of returns when they don't pan out). It was a fun little bass but I'll just have to settle with playing my other basses instead. As an aside I also passed on the Rascal - another really fun bass but a bit heftier than I wanted to deal with going forward. So I am, at least momentarily, Squier-less again.

 

[spellbookhq]

Here's a weird Q, since I don't know anything really about bass modding... Is it possible to buy another one of these, pull the electronics out, fill the precision route, and route it for J pickups, and then have a J in the same scale using the body, bridge, neck, and tuners as they are?

Quote replying bc my question is also about routing + adding a pup.

Has anyone tried adding an additional neck pickup to their mini P? Huge fan of that Hofner neck pup sound. I'm curious about adding a Curtis Novak Hofner staple clone to a mini P, in the neck position. But wondering if it would even fit? Since those pups are usually paired with a floating bridge. Or would you just have to route deeper into the body?

Hofner Staple

Vintage correct Hofner style Staple.

www.curtisnovak.com

 

[spellbookhq]

Squier Mini P is done (for now?...).
Mods: DiMarzio Model P pickups, Hipshot Kickass bridge, GHS Precision Flats, Dunlop Straploks, Levy's strap, black knobs, custom leopard pickguard (made it with adhesive paper).
Thing absolutely growls. The dichotomy between its weight and beefy sound is incredible.
Took a while to get intonation right (stoked to have that bridge accordingly) and a better gearing on the tuning machines would be nice (bonus.. get black Hipshots someday) but I think this project is good for now.
View attachment 4082261

So nice! I'm doing a build that's very similar. Though at the moment I'm torn between those Dimarzios and EMG Geezers!

 

[fffoma]

Hello everybody! I just bought my Squier Mini P bass, and right off the bat, made a number of upgrades, including installing new tuners (Hipshots), new proper strap buttons, a new bone nut, etc. And most importantly, I put a set of LaBella 760FM-P Mini P Flat Wounds as I wanted a hassle-free experience. I love the Mini line of guitars and basses, such as friendly instruments. The strings are also very nice.

But the E string had this unacceptable warble and chorusy effect, also known as stratitis. I knew it was going to happen because of the ultra-short scale length and thick strings, but I never knew it was going to be that bad. So, in order to correct that, I figured it must be a magnetic pull from the pickup that causes the interference. The strings and the new nut are perfectly OK, no twists or problems. But for the warble to diminish considerably, I needed to take off springs from the pickups and lower them as low as they could go. So I ended up with both pickups flush with the body, which looks ridiculous, screams bad setup, but at least the warble is almost gone.

Are there better solutions for this? Which replacement pickups could be helpful in this situation? Has anybody experienced this kind of problem with LaBella strings and stock pickups specifically? It must be a very popular problem. I need to know if it's even possible to get rid of the chorusy effect in the first place, or if I need to buy a full-scale bass instead. Thanks!

 

[fffoma]

So I consulted ChatGPT, and we both concluded new pickups are desperately needed. I bought a replica of a boutique P-bass pickup, which costs like 20 bucks. And it's a night and day difference! I managed to maintain a reasonable pickup height, the warble/chorus effect is almost gone, all left is the metallic sheen of the new flatwound strings, which hopefully will be gone as I break in the strings.

Bottom line: the stock pickup is so bad, I can't believe it. I know it's a $200 bass, sometimes even $150, but I just installed a $20 pickup and it made a huge difference. Unfortunately, becasue I lowered the stock pickups so badly, flush to the pickguard, the screws went through the entire body of the bass and developed a little hump on the other side. Don't do that. And stay away from the stock pickup! This is all I can say.

I've conducted a little test, and the magnetic pull on the stock ceramic pickup is so strong, if you place a screw and move the pickup towards it, the screw jumps to the pole piece from almost 2 cantimeters (0.8 inches) away. And when I took the pickup out, they would glue together like crazy. No wonder it would interfere with stainless steel flatwound strings! I wish I'd swap pickup right away.

 

[spellbookhq]

Bottom line: the stock pickup is so bad, I can't believe it. I know it's a $200 bass, sometimes even $150, but I just installed a $20 pickup and it made a huge difference. Unfortunately, becasue I lowered the stock pickups so badly, flush to the pickguard, the screws went through the entire body of the bass and developed a little hump on the other side. Don't do that. And stay away from the stock pickup! This is all I can say.

Totally agree! The stock pup sounds like pure mud. I'm about to put EMG Geezers in.

Which replica pickup did you get?

 

[spellbookhq]

- Replaced the knobs with domed knobs with set screws.

Curious which knobs you got? Also putting in EMG Geezers and it seems like the stock knobs won't fit once I do so.

 

[fffoma]

Totally agree! The stock pup sounds like pure mud. I'm about to put EMG Geezers in.

Which replica pickup did you get?

I got these (made by The 7th Songs / Keftone): Electric Bass Guitar PB Plain Enamel Precision Pickup Alnico 5 10.8K Black | eBay

Cheap as dirt, but I wish the stock pup would be as good as this. The sound you get from it, I'd say, is shocking in the same way the price is shocking. Now I wonder if I should install something like EMG Geezer like you, Seymour Duncan SPB-1, Fralin, Nordstrand NP4... I wanted to test the idea, and so far it worked perfectly, but I don't have a budget for a nice, proper boutique pickup.

Good luck with the new EMG. From all the reviews I've read while I was researching new pickups, this bad boy is one of the best.

 

[fffoma]

Curious which knobs you got? Also putting in EMG Geezers and it seems like the stock knobs won't fit once I do so.

They won't! You'll need 1/4" knobs for these.

 

[spellbookhq]

I found a solution for the hard case issue. I took my Mini P to the nearest Guitar Center and checked fitment on every hard case they had in stock. It was immediately clear that bass cases were going be way too big.

In the end, the best fit length-wise was the Gator Flight Pro V3 TSA Series ATA Molded Electric Guitar Case. Even then, the width of lower bout was such that it could slide around in there (rotating side to side, potentially stressing the neck in the process).

So I went to Box City and bought a piece of flexible foam (~$15). Made cardboard templates, and cut two side pieces with a craft knife. Now the fit is perfect. I can't say whether the foam is finish safe, so my next step is to go the fabric store and pick up supplies to sew custom covers for each of the side pieces. Will post when finished. Hope this is helpful info, to anyone else who intends to travel with their mini P!