The Squier Mini Precision Bass Club

[Volker Kirstein]

i call mine "the mini". not big on names for basses - the only one with sort of a name i call "the little guy" because the name MB2 isn't one we associate, and it's my smallest, shortest scale bass.

btw, right now my sweetie has the mini in his workshop and is intonating it

I name all my basses, and put the name on a piece of tape on the gig bags. That way I can ask "get me Jenny, please!" instead of "get me the short scale with the iridescent blocks, please!", with the attendant searching. I can tell at a glance which gig bag is which bass.

 

[pcake]

I name all my basses, and put the name on a piece of tape on the gig bags. That way I can ask "get me Jenny, please!" instead of "get me the short scale with the iridescent blocks, please!", with the attendant searching. I can tell at a glance which gig bag is which bass.

i can say "gimme the bronco, please" or "please hand me the mezzo".

but it would be hysterically funny to say to an acting roadie who isn't a bass afficianado "please hand me the mickro with the custom pickguard and the jazz pickups, please"

 

[DavesnothereCA]

I don't know why all the fuss, has anyone tried to validate specs from previous Squier instruments? I went through that exercise with my BassVI and that was a festival of tolerance madness if you tried to use website or manual specs.

To the point of asking earlier if 14 mm on paper is the same as 14.23... mm in real life, it is in the music industry and Fender is not the only one doing that, and that counts for their top of the line instruments.

This is a $180 bass, the sole fact this thread has more pages about its specs than some top of the line instruments makes me wonder about our expectations for it.

Music makers rarely disclose revision updates in a production model, whereas a piece of software or any mechanical engineering project would document all instance updates for the customer and support channels.

This also led many manufacturers or factory managers to take liberties in their production runs, to the detriment of spec tolerances, but also to the veracity of marketing assets which are rarely able to catch up with updates made on the hardware.

All I know is that cheap instruments always require some elbow grease and acceptance in the lack of accurate information about them, which can and should only be validated with having the instrument in hands and leaving your calipers at home.

I mean, as soon as you see the strap buttons, you should feel lucky that the bass isn't just a toy at this point and has a truss rod.
It wasn't too long ago that the only choices in bass was whatever the only store around had on display. There was no orders, let alone internet delivery to your door. Heck, if you had told me in the 90s that I could get a cheap good Squier bass in the mail, I would have laughed at you on so many levels.
I love this bass for what it is, something I am not afraid to have the kid drop or slaughter, but also something I can grab on the go, plug without the need of fancy pedal boards and have a simple but great bass experience where I need to remain humble and adapt to the pros and cons, rather than expecting the bass to behave like another more expensive bass.

Strings too softs? It helps me me on becoming more sensitive with my fingertips
Can't slap without the string to touch the pickup poles? I since learned to slap in a different position.
String spacing at the nut is not the one expected? Deal with it or use the bass as a learning experience to file your own nut.

Break a wire? Learn to fix it, stand next to your tech or go on youtube, but the price alone wound incentivize me to learn how to fix it rather than to splurge half the price of the bass in repairs.

I personally enjoy being challenged by the shortcomings from this bass, given the price point, which strikes me as a great value for the price, but also balanced perfectly so that I am not tempted to upgrade it to something I would like it to be, but instead having me adapting to it.

After this rambling, I decided that I shall name my mini P "Mr Humble Rumble" to top the personality profile of this bass.

Talking about humility, I always had an unfounded and biased aversion for P basses as I wanted a J sound, based on not much more than assumptions.

25 years later, I try this mini P, because of its price, and now I think I get why people like P basses and I believe has to do with many of the things I mentioned above.

So if you are reading this and like me, always preferred J over P tones, this bass is a dangerous gateway to P bass GAS.

Cheers!

~
I cannot speak for everyone here, but I'm sure I can for some.

It doesn't matter how much or how little that a product or service costs - if the manufacturer or provider states that it is a certain way, then it bloody well SHOULD be !

See my fast food burger analogy in an earlier post, regarding reasonable expectations.

If they do not wish to be held accountable for a specification, then it's quite simple - don't PUBLISH that spec, like I said about the string gauges.

Problem is, there will still be people asking what's what, no matter how the maker handles things, and while some issues can be fixed/changed, others cannot, such as the width of the neck at the nut, which is what got MY goat about all of this in the beginning.

(I was ready to BUY one of these, until a kind soul here enlightened me about that discrepancy.)

Why not just get it right the first time ?!

Say what you do, and do what you say, and if something absolutely must change, then communicate it, from the horse's mouth on down.

I know that some large companies have drifted away from such an obvious concept over the years, but that's all that is required to get MY approval, even if the stated product might still not be my cup of tea.
~

 

[pcake]

my husband's emailed list of the work he's done on the mini P at this point:

Tighten all hardware.
Adjust tuners.
Clean and polish.
Remove pick guard, check wiring, remove film.
Condition finger board, polish frets.
Back of neck treatment.
Level and adjust pickup.
New strings.
Level saddles.
Set relief.
Set action.
Set intonation.
File down fret sprout.

it looks like the low string's nut slot is not deep enough, but i only caught this when playing it after he was done for the day.

 

[DavesnothereCA]

my husband's emailed list of the work he's done on the mini P at this point:

Tighten all hardware.
Adjust tuners.
Clean and polish.
Remove pick guard, check wiring, remove film.
Condition finger board, polish frets.
Back of neck treatment.
Level and adjust pickup.
New strings.
Level saddles.
Set relief.
Set action.
Set intonation.
File down fret sprout.

it looks like the low string's nut slot is not deep enough, but i only caught this when playing it after he was done for the day.

~
Sounds like he does good work - certainly pays attention to the right things.

Sometimes though, leaving the nut until almost last is wise, because of how the other adjustments might interact with it.

Likely he should only have to double check the intonation after filing the nut.

Oh, and clean and polish.
~

 

[SBassman]

I meant to mention after my tuner swap: the nut of each tuner was only hand tightened. They were very loose when I took the string off. Every one.

I think Volker had mentioned he saw that on his too.

 

[Volker Kirstein]

my husband's emailed list of the work he's done on the mini P at this point:

Tighten all hardware.
Adjust tuners.
Clean and polish.
Remove pick guard, check wiring, remove film.
Condition finger board, polish frets.
Back of neck treatment.
Level and adjust pickup.
New strings.
Level saddles.
Set relief.
Set action.
Set intonation.
File down fret sprout.

it looks like the low string's nut slot is not deep enough, but i only caught this when playing it after he was done for the day.

When you list it all out like that, it sounds like a lot of work for a new bass. But! Don't you do this with each and every other new or used bass you get as a matter of course? Don't we all?

 

[DavesnothereCA]

When you list it all out like that, it sounds like a lot of work for a new bass. But! Don't you do this with each and every other new or used bass you get as a matter of course? Don't we all?

~
Pretty much.

Though some items only need to be checked, and end up being OK as they were, especially on a well kept used instrument.
~

 

[pcake]

When you list it all out like that, it sounds like a lot of work for a new bass. But! Don't you do this with each and every other new or used bass you get as a matter of course? Don't we all?

to be honest, we don't have to do this on every bass and guitar. we check for all those things, but this bass probably needed the most work of any i've bought - and i buy a lot of cheap basses. there was the pushed in pickguard, every tuner was loose, the action, intonation and neck relief were off. my bronco didn't need that much work, my mikros didn't, either. but none of these were major and so i'd say they're not deal breakers.

 

[TK4261]

Here is my Mini P after I got done with it today When I took it apart today I noticed that everything that pcake's Husband had to do would have had to be done on mine. Tuner nuts were lose, 2 of the screws that hold the tuners in place were stripped at the head, strap button screws were loose, Debris in the neck pocket...etc..Minor stuff for a $180 but still all those things should not be expected..One or two things is ok. As I mentioned before, I will only be using the body & neck for this project. I have some of my rub on logos left over from my previous builds so I sanded off the Squier logo (extremely easy) to see where I wil put my logo. I did notice after taking the neck off that on the 11th fret that there is a finish on the fretboard. A small amount looks flaked off. Now i need to figure out how to get the rest of the finish off the fretboard so I can condition it properly and it looks like the Laurel wood would look a lot nicer without that finish on it and conditioned. If anyone knows how to get the rest of the finish off the fretboard easily or know of any threads that explain it please let me know.

 

[DavesnothereCA]

to be honest, we don't have to do this on every bass and guitar. we check for all those things, but this bass probably needed the most work of any i've bought - and i buy a lot of cheap basses. there was the pushed in pickguard, every tuner was loose, the action, intonation and neck relief were off. my bronco didn't need that much work, my mikros didn't, either. but none of these were major and so i'd say they're not deal breakers.

~
And fortunately, the narrow neck suits you.

BTW, I have noticed (during my quest for lighter weight basses the last few years) that other than a few well-known models, a narrow (1.5") width of nut on an electric bass is far more common than a wider one, regardless of the scale length, and in almost all mass-produced brands.

One notable exception is Hofner [I bought one not too long ago], and another is Rickenbacker [weighs too much and I've owned mine for many years, and swear that it weighed less in 1974 ], and all of the examples which I have seen of these two brands are much wider, like 1.65" thru 1.6875".

Most regular long scale Fender Precisions are supposed to be 1.625" at the nut, to put things in perspective.
~

 

[WildWes]

Received my mini today. Doesn't seem like my tone knob does anything. I've adjusted the volume and tone knobs right and left with no tone changes. Anyone else run in to this?

 

[TK4261]

Received my mini today. Doesn't seem like my tone knob does anything. I've adjusted the volume and tone knobs right and left with no tone changes. Anyone else run in to this?

Something is wrong then. My tone knob worked fine when i took it out of the lightly packed box. You might have a loose connection because the tone knob has a pretty pronounced difference from left to right in the tone.

 

[pcake]

Received my mini today. Doesn't seem like my tone knob does anything. I've adjusted the volume and tone knobs right and left with no tone changes. Anyone else run in to this?

my tone knob makes a distinct difference.

 

[JohnMalay]

Received my mini today. Doesn't seem like my tone knob does anything. I've adjusted the volume and tone knobs right and left with no tone changes. Anyone else run in to this?

Most common cause of this is a bad ground on the tone pot. Broken wire or cold solder connection.

 

[Volker Kirstein]

Received my mini today. Doesn't seem like my tone knob does anything. I've adjusted the volume and tone knobs right and left with no tone changes. Anyone else run in to this?

Something is wrong then. My tone knob worked fine when i took it out of the lightly packed box. You might have a loose connection because the tone knob has a pretty pronounced difference from left to right in the tone.

my tone knob makes a distinct difference.

Most common cause of this is a bad ground on the tone pot. Broken wire or cold solder connection.

*In a Greek Tragedy*

We are the chorus, and we agree
We agree
We agree

*timpani flourish*

 

[TK4261]

Some short scale string info taken from the short scale thread

The number after the manufacturers' name is the winding length.

D’Addario - 32 1/4”
- Prosteels, 45-100
- Nickel Wound, 40-95
- Nickel Wound, 45-100
- Half Rounds, 45-100
- Chromes, 45-100
- Tapewound, 50-105

Dunlop - 32 3/4”
- NIckel Wound, 45-105
- Stainless Steel Flatwound. 40-100
- Stainless Steel Flatwound, 5 String, 40-120
- Stainless Steel Flatwound. 45-105
- Stainless Steel Flatwound, gib5 String, 45-125

Ernie Ball - 32 1/2”
- Regular Slinky, 45-105
- Super Slinky, 40-100

GHS -32 3/4”
- Balanced Nickels, 44-106
- Bass Boomers, 45-95
- Bass Boomers, 50-107
- Bright Flats, 49-108
- Precision Flats, 45-95
- Pressurewound, 40-96

Hofner
- Contemporary Roundwounds, 40-95

LaBella - 32 1/4”
- Black Nylon Tape, 50-105
- Black Nylon Tape, 60-115
- Deep Talkin’ Flats, 39-96
- Deep Talkin’ Flats, 43-104
- Deep Talkin’ Flats, 45-105
- Deep Talkin’ Flats, 49-109
- Deep Talkin’ Flats, Original Style, 52-110
- Deep Talkin’ Flats, 5 String, 45-128
- Deep Talkin’ Flats, 6 String, 29-128
- White Nylon Tape, 50-105
- White Nylon Tape, 60-115
- Low Tension Flats, 42-100

Picato - 32"
- Flatwound, 45-100

Rotosound - 32”
- Swing 66 Steel, 40-90
- Jazz 77, 40-90
- Tru Bass 88, 65-115

SIT Strings - 32 1/2"
- Power Wound, 40-95
- Power Wound, 45-105

Stringjoy - 32”
- Nickel, 45-100
- Nickel, 45-105
- Nickel, 50-105
- Nickel, 55-110

**Not Quite Short Scale**
These are strings of either unknown winding lengths or winding lengths > 33" but that are advertised as short scale.

Curt Mangan - 34 3/4”
- Nickel, 40-100
- NIckel, 45-105
- Nickel 5 String, 45-130
- 12 String, 45-100

DR Strings - 33 3/4”
- Hi-Beams, 45-105
- Hi-Beams, 5 string, 45-125
- Sunbeams, 45-105
- Sunbeams, 5 string, 45-125

Gibson - ?
- Flatwound Steel, 40-95
- Flatwound Steel, 45-100

Optima - ?
- 24K Gold, 35-90
- 24K Gold, 40-95
- 24K Gold, 45-100
- 24K Gold, 45-105
- 24K Gold, 50-105
- 24K Gold, 5 String, 30-100
- 24K Gold, 5 String, 45-125
- 24K Gold, 6 String, 30-125
- 24K Gold Studiobass Unique, 45-105
- 24K Gold Studiobass Unique, 5 String, 45-130
- 24K Gold Studiobass Unique, 6 String, 30-130
- 24K Gold Maxiflex, 40-95
- 24K Gold Maxiflex, 45-100
- Chrome, 35-90
- Chrome, 40-95
- Chrome, 45-100
- Chrome, 45-105
- Chrome, 50-105
- Chrome, 5 String, 30-100
- Chrome, 5 String, 45-125
- Chrome, 6 String, 30-125
- Flatwound, 45-100
- Flatwound, 5 String, 45-125
- Chrome Studio Bass Unique, 45-105
- Chrome Studio Bass Unique, 45-130
- Chrome Studio Bass Unique, 30-130

Pyramid -33 1/2”
- Pure Nickel, 40-100
- Stainless Steel, 40-100

Thomastik-Infeld - 35 1/2”
- Jazz Round Wound, 42-93
- Jazz Flat Wound, 43-106

 

[Bass-jay]

i suggest you measure the string gauges with a caliper if you're concerned with matching the gauge - i did, and mine were definitely 40-95s.

Same thing here definitely 40/95

 

[pcake]

Some short scale string info taken from the short scale thread

The number after the manufacturers' name is the winding length.

D’Addario - 32 1/4”
- Prosteels, 45-100
- Nickel Wound, 40-95
- Nickel Wound, 45-100
- Half Rounds, 45-100
- Chromes, 45-100
- Tapewound, 50-105

Dunlop - 32 3/4”
- NIckel Wound, 45-105
- Stainless Steel Flatwound. 40-100
- Stainless Steel Flatwound, 5 String, 40-120
- Stainless Steel Flatwound. 45-105
- Stainless Steel Flatwound, gib5 String, 45-125

Ernie Ball - 32 1/2”
- Regular Slinky, 45-105
- Super Slinky, 40-100

GHS -32 3/4”
- Balanced Nickels, 44-106
- Bass Boomers, 45-95
- Bass Boomers, 50-107
- Bright Flats, 49-108
- Precision Flats, 45-95
- Pressurewound, 40-96

Hofner
- Contemporary Roundwounds, 40-95

LaBella - 32 1/4”
- Black Nylon Tape, 50-105
- Black Nylon Tape, 60-115
- Deep Talkin’ Flats, 39-96
- Deep Talkin’ Flats, 43-104
- Deep Talkin’ Flats, 45-105
- Deep Talkin’ Flats, 49-109
- Deep Talkin’ Flats, Original Style, 52-110
- Deep Talkin’ Flats, 5 String, 45-128
- Deep Talkin’ Flats, 6 String, 29-128
- White Nylon Tape, 50-105
- White Nylon Tape, 60-115
- Low Tension Flats, 42-100

Picato - 32"
- Flatwound, 45-100

Rotosound - 32”
- Swing 66 Steel, 40-90
- Jazz 77, 40-90
- Tru Bass 88, 65-115

SIT Strings - 32 1/2"
- Power Wound, 40-95
- Power Wound, 45-105

Stringjoy - 32”
- Nickel, 45-100
- Nickel, 45-105
- Nickel, 50-105
- Nickel, 55-110

**Not Quite Short Scale**
These are strings of either unknown winding lengths or winding lengths > 33" but that are advertised as short scale.

Curt Mangan - 34 3/4”
- Nickel, 40-100
- NIckel, 45-105
- Nickel 5 String, 45-130
- 12 String, 45-100

DR Strings - 33 3/4”
- Hi-Beams, 45-105
- Hi-Beams, 5 string, 45-125
- Sunbeams, 45-105
- Sunbeams, 5 string, 45-125

Gibson - ?
- Flatwound Steel, 40-95
- Flatwound Steel, 45-100

Optima - ?
- 24K Gold, 35-90
- 24K Gold, 40-95
- 24K Gold, 45-100
- 24K Gold, 45-105
- 24K Gold, 50-105
- 24K Gold, 5 String, 30-100
- 24K Gold, 5 String, 45-125
- 24K Gold, 6 String, 30-125
- 24K Gold Studiobass Unique, 45-105
- 24K Gold Studiobass Unique, 5 String, 45-130
- 24K Gold Studiobass Unique, 6 String, 30-130
- 24K Gold Maxiflex, 40-95
- 24K Gold Maxiflex, 45-100
- Chrome, 35-90
- Chrome, 40-95
- Chrome, 45-100
- Chrome, 45-105
- Chrome, 50-105
- Chrome, 5 String, 30-100
- Chrome, 5 String, 45-125
- Chrome, 6 String, 30-125
- Flatwound, 45-100
- Flatwound, 5 String, 45-125
- Chrome Studio Bass Unique, 45-105
- Chrome Studio Bass Unique, 45-130
- Chrome Studio Bass Unique, 30-130

Pyramid -33 1/2”
- Pure Nickel, 40-100
- Stainless Steel, 40-100

Thomastik-Infeld - 35 1/2”
- Jazz Round Wound, 42-93
- Jazz Flat Wound, 43-106

ALL of them are too long. i put d'addarios on my mini yesterday, and the 32" wrap is on the peg of the E string. a string would need to have a 31 1/2" wrap to work.

 

[JeezyMcNuggles]

my husband's emailed list of the work he's done on the mini P at this point:

Tighten all hardware.
Adjust tuners.
Clean and polish.
Remove pick guard, check wiring, remove film.
Condition finger board, polish frets.
Back of neck treatment.
Level and adjust pickup.
New strings.
Level saddles.
Set relief.
Set action.
Set intonation.
File down fret sprout.

it looks like the low string's nut slot is not deep enough, but i only caught this when playing it after he was done for the day.

So, basic set up huh? Does it sound like a P?