- Apr 3, 2003
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- Editor-in-Chief, Bass Gear Magazine
Might be interested in having one of those in my Westinghouse, if you have any left.
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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society
- Thread starter kranahan
- Start date
Might be interested in having one of those in my Westinghouse, if you have any left.
Even though I had to cancel my LU purchase I will certainly get some valvey Sushi goodness once my turbulence clears.
I'm still watching the thread and have a couple of questions about the Space Heater which is my new object of desire and looks gorgeous too: It's a full size valve but it has a low draw and wouldn't tax one of my OneSpot CS6 9v outputs, right? What about the 12v output that's labelled 200mA?
And if the tube needed replacing, I'd be able to do it?
I'm still watching the thread and have a couple of questions about the Space Heater which is my new object of desire and looks gorgeous too: It's a full size valve but it has a low draw and wouldn't tax one of my OneSpot CS6 9v outputs, right? What about the 12v output that's labelled 200mA?
And if the tube needed replacing, I'd be able to do it?
[
"after warm-up the preamp pulls 240mA from a 12V supply"
That's a no-go. This is why I have switched some of my Truetones for Cioks DC7 power supplies
EDIT..IGNORE THE ABOVE STATEMENT.
Looks like the CS6 will supply the current you need as long as you don't max out the total current with other pedals.
"after warm-up the preamp pulls 240mA from a 12V supply"
That's a no-go. This is why I have switched some of my Truetones for Cioks DC7 power supplies
EDIT..IGNORE THE ABOVE STATEMENT.
Looks like the CS6 will supply the current you need as long as you don't max out the total current with other pedals.
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TrueTone states the CS6 outputs can handle more current than spec'd. Read up on that. 240 mA from a CS6 output rated 200 mA is totally doable and approved by Truetone.
Straight from the Truetone CS6 webpage:
"Although we had to put power rating labels on each output to satisfy certification agencies (yes, we actually certified these, unlike most companies), the outputs can generally handle far more than the label shows. For example, you can connect a 300mA pedal to a 200mA output, without causing any problems."
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I wouldn't trust it.
If it can deliver 300ma, why wouldn't they say it delivers 300ma?
You can also drive a 200 watt speaker with 500 watts, but for how long?
Also keep in mind that 240ma is the 'after warm up' draw. He does not give the 'during warm up' draw for this pedal, but on other pedals it's around 150ma more than the 'after warm up'. So if you want to draw 400ma from that 200ma output, go right ahead
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That is explained. I'm not going to argue over something clearly stated by the manufacturer. Also, the outputs are fully protected; you can't draw "too much" current.
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Nobody is arguing. I'm just saying it's not wise to ignore the pedal designers power requirements for the pedals they designed.
But you’re happy to ignore the power supply designers regarding the power supplies they designed.
From my understanding when I had a CS12 and a CS6 the current is pooled amongst all ports. So it you have one port that is drawing less than the labelled ‘max’ current, you could ‘overdraw’ on another port and be fine
When I lived with a Two Notes Le Bass for a while, I did research on how on earth I'd power it, and came across that documentation from TrueTone. Worked flawlessly with a CS12.
Now, on my 12-pedal board that includes a Particle Accelerator, the CS12 seems to "divert" power to get the PA warmed up quickly, and then powers the rest of the board as normal.
The CIOKS are demonstrably amazing power supplies, but TrueTone are no slouches with their designs, either.
Now, on my 12-pedal board that includes a Particle Accelerator, the CS12 seems to "divert" power to get the PA warmed up quickly, and then powers the rest of the board as normal.
The CIOKS are demonstrably amazing power supplies, but TrueTone are no slouches with their designs, either.
[
"after warm-up the preamp pulls 240mA from a 12V supply"
That's a no-go. This is why I have switched everything to Cioks DC7 power supplies
Your only option on the CS6 is to use one of the 9v 500ma connections.
Sorry I've been out all day, my day job actually required my full attention
So the OneSpot CS series are really neat. If you read the documentation on them they mention that the labels are just there because of certification; they're required to put a label on each output. Technically there isn't a set rating per output, it's just that all of them together have to be less than 1700mA, but it's hard for a certification board to deal with that because it can be hard to explain to consumers.
So as long as you don't have 6 or 7 tube preamps plugged in at the same time, the CS6 should be able to do it.
#humblebragSorry I've been out all day, my day job actually required my full attention
Well I honestly did not know they worked like that. And I still use a CS12 and a CS7 on my largest board.
Still seems weird to me though. If the current is shared among all ports, how is it isolated?
And are all outputs the same? Say you have one pedal that draws 500ma, you can plug it anywhere and get 500ma?
And what if you max out the power supply? Are the ones labeled '500ma' labeled that way because they will definitely provide 500ma under that condition while the ones labeled 200ma max out at 200ma? Does it make sense what I'm asking? Trying to learn here.
I hear ya on all counts. I've had the same question. I haven't gotten adequate answers from TrueTone
I can kind if answer that. So I use a power supply that I designed, and I'm pretty sure it operates the same way theirs does.
My power supply takes a 12V 4A input. It has 10 outputs, and each one has its own isolated regulator. Each regulator is rated for 1.5A, so in theory any output can drive a 9V 1.5A load, but they are all sharing the 12V 4A input, so the sum of their current still has to be less than 4A. Isolated outputs, but with a shared input. So even though each one is capable of 1.5A I can't label all of them as 1.5A outputs, because the input power supply can't handle 15A. But to certify something for consumer use they're required to label the current of each output, even if the output limit is actually "it depends."
So every month without fail I mess up a couple enclosures and end up having to sand and refinish them. With the laser it was more common as lasers are finnicky, and mine liked to burn random lines that weren't present in the file, but the UV printer has been a lot better.
Well this month I was SO CLOSE to having a perfect batch, then I was doing five things at once and got distracted, and made the "Stranger Things" Slampegg:
Well this month I was SO CLOSE to having a perfect batch, then I was doing five things at once and got distracted, and made the "Stranger Things" Slampegg:
Put the guts in it and someone will buy it.
I like saving a buck or two when I can, but that’s a little far out even for me.
I thought about that, I'm sure you're right, but that would mean I have to make a new box for this one. Sanding and refinishing isn't fun, but still takes less time than doing a new box from scratch. That's a downside to made-to-order, I don't have a chance to make blem units because I fix them for the customer that ordered them
