The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

[NKBassman]

Sneak peak of the Westinghouse LV/HV selector switch mod. I'll finish wiring and testing it tomorrow, I'm going to sleep.

View attachment 4237013

I assume this will still look clean on the exterior of the box? ie the switch will fit and cover the existing hole cleanly?

I think once you figure out a retrofit solution for the Westinghouse I'll send it back to you, along with my Wattson for the volume mod at the same time. Get two birds stoned at once, as they say.

 

[sears]

there's a Dumble circuit in there complete with goop

 

[Sushi Box FX]

I assume this will still look clean on the exterior of the box? ie the switch will fit and cover the existing hole cleanly?

I think once you figure out a retrofit solution for the Westinghouse I'll send it back to you, along with my Wattson for the volume mod at the same time. Get two birds stoned at once, as they say.

Correct, the plan is to use a switch in the same hole the pot was in, and it should look nice and clean on the outside.

 

[kranahan]

Correct, the plan is to use a switch in the same hole the pot was in, and it should look nice and clean on the outside.

I’m on board with that! I love me a nice switch.

 

[MT Hope]

I assume this will still look clean on the exterior of the box? ie the switch will fit and cover the existing hole cleanly?

I think once you figure out a retrofit solution for the Westinghouse I'll send it back to you, along with my Wattson for the volume mod at the same time. Get two birds stoned at once, as they say.

I mean, no one wants to admit they ate nine cans of ravioli...

 

[NKBassman]

Putting my Saturnworks loop order switcher to good use. It just flips from A>B // B>A , so I can see if I prefer the Westinghouse before/after certain effects... as long as I can remember which loop is which.

So far, just playing solo, I like it with the comp before the WH. It sounds a little cleaner and has a rounder, smoother bottom end. I’ll be real curious to see how it reacts with some drive and octave pedals.

 

[aekisz]

Currently mulling whether to get a Black Eye X or a King Nothing for my guitar board when slots open up again. Both sound like they would do amazing things (based on what I hear from the pedals that inspired them).

The guys in my band (2 rehearsals since we all got vaccinated after a year w/o playing!) won't let me play 6 strings with them yet, and when (if) I do it will likely be rhythm guitar only, so I'm now leaning toward the King Nothing due to the wide range of crunch it can do.

Gondwana is sounding better to me as well, bass-wise. I didn't think I needed one. I have and love a Shift Line CabZone X but it doesn't play well with other pedals on my board power-wise. Even by itself it sometimes locks up and needs to be restarted.

 

[CATFISHMcC0Y]

Putting my Saturnworks loop order switcher to good use. It just flips from A>B // B>A , so I can see if I prefer the Westinghouse before/after certain effects... as long as I can remember which loop is which.

So far, just playing solo, I like it with the comp before the WH. It sounds a little cleaner and has a rounder, smoother bottom end. I’ll be real curious to see how it reacts with some drive and octave pedals.

This is what I am going to try also. Right now I have a SVT style preamp pedal into compressor into neve 1073 style pedal. Was planning to slide the WH between the compressor and the neve thing.

I'll end up trying it everywhere I'm sure, but hearing this from you gives some validation to my theory.

 

[Skip Chucker]

Correct, the plan is to use a switch in the same hole the pot was in, and it should look nice and clean on the outside.

That sounds like a much better option on the user end. My pilot brain says, "Give me two options that work instead of 300 degrees worth of options in which 200 of those aren't useful."

I like the idea of less is more anyway. I have too many EQ options as is. That's what is so attractive about the space heater and the Westinghouse to me- fewer controls keeps it simple, which means fewer ways to get a negative effect.

I'll definitely take that option on my April order if you can swing it!

 

[Sushi Box FX]

Well sometimes I have good news, sometimes I have bad news. Tonight it's bad news.

I tried the switch idea first as it seemed the most straightforward. Well it wasn't straightforward, it took about an hour and required the use of a microscope while soldering, and it still didn't work. I think the principle is still solid with the switch, but modifying it into the existing board is easier said than done. The board was designed to be small, it wasn't designed to be easily modifiable.

So next I tried filtering the hell out of the high voltage rail and keeping the knob for a full adjustable voltage, and no dice there either. No matter how much filtering I add I can't seem to get rid of the whine, and there is of course a size constraint for a maximum of how much filtering I can add.

I'll be cutting it close for this month, but I think the best course forward may be redesigning the boards and ordering a new version. With rush shipping I should be able to get them here by the end of the month so I can take care of April orders, and I would of course get extras so I could swap them out for March orders.

EDIT: Just ordered the redesigned board. I'm still not seeing a reliable way to make it work with a pot, so this will have a switch to go between low voltage and high voltage. It should work well and work quietly, and if it doesn't I'm refunding everyone and retiring

 

[krfoss]

After some futzing. Here I am. The pax likes to be last before the ir loader. So far it's quiet and playing well with itself. This is the bass/guitar board.

 

[aekisz]

Well sometimes I have good news, sometimes I have bad news. Tonight it's bad news.

I tried the switch idea first as it seemed the most straightforward. Well it wasn't straightforward, it took about an hour and required the use of a microscope while soldering, and it still didn't work. I think the principle is still solid with the switch, but modifying it into the existing board is easier said than done. The board was designed to be small, it wasn't designed to be easily modifiable.

So next I tried filtering the hell out of the high voltage rail and keeping the knob for a full adjustable voltage, and no dice there either. No matter how much filtering I add I can't seem to get rid of the whine, and there is of course a size constraint for a maximum of how much filtering I can add.

I'll be cutting it close for this month, but I think the best course forward may be redesigning the boards and ordering a new version. With rush shipping I should be able to get them here by the end of the month so I can take care of April orders, and I would of course get extras so I could swap them out for March orders.

EDIT: Just ordered the redesigned board. I'm still not seeing a reliable way to make it work with a pot, so this will have a switch to go between low voltage and high voltage. It should work well and work quietly, and if it doesn't I'm refunding everyone and retiring

I’m actually fine keeping the whine. (Didn’t mean that to rhyme!) I mean if the new boards don’t get there in time.

 

[Lowendtech]

My Westinghouse is in USPS limbo right now. I imagine it’ll be at least a week yet before it makes it north of the border and into Canada.

Mine has been in limbo land for a week without an update from usps.

 

[NKBassman]

Mine has been in limbo land for a week without an update from usps.

Bummer! Mine showed up the other day (as you may have guessed).

 

[Lowendtech]

Bummer! Mine showed up the other day (as you may have guessed).

I’m still catching up post blackout.

 

[BunchyMutt]

Well sometimes I have good news, sometimes I have bad news. Tonight it's bad news.

I tried the switch idea first as it seemed the most straightforward. Well it wasn't straightforward, it took about an hour and required the use of a microscope while soldering, and it still didn't work. I think the principle is still solid with the switch, but modifying it into the existing board is easier said than done. The board was designed to be small, it wasn't designed to be easily modifiable.

So next I tried filtering the hell out of the high voltage rail and keeping the knob for a full adjustable voltage, and no dice there either. No matter how much filtering I add I can't seem to get rid of the whine, and there is of course a size constraint for a maximum of how much filtering I can add.

I'll be cutting it close for this month, but I think the best course forward may be redesigning the boards and ordering a new version. With rush shipping I should be able to get them here by the end of the month so I can take care of April orders, and I would of course get extras so I could swap them out for March orders.

EDIT: Just ordered the redesigned board. I'm still not seeing a reliable way to make it work with a pot, so this will have a switch to go between low voltage and high voltage. It should work well and work quietly, and if it doesn't I'm refunding everyone and retiring

that sounds like it would be frustrating.

I'm assuming the high voltage setting on the switch corresponds to the voltage knob at max. Does the low voltage switch position correspond to the voltage knob at minimum?

 

[macmanlou]

Correct, the plan is to use a switch in the same hole the pot was in, and it should look nice and clean on the outside.

I wonder how the Westinghouse might react with a regulated, linear 9V power supply. I got one of Jameco's 24V bricks (with an added polarity adapter) to test pedals that can use that much voltage and it works great for that. They are not expensive.

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[krfoss]

Hey y'all. Slampegg x users. I'd love to see the settings you're using. What's the closest you're getting to a motown sound?

 

[kranahan]

Hey y'all. Slampegg x users. I'd love to see the settings you're using. What's the closest you're getting to a motown sound?

Back off the treble and turn up the bass.

 

[krfoss]

Back off the treble and turn up the bass.

Are you using the switches?