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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

A ? for the sushi hive mind: I will be shaking up my boards, and am wondering if my 1 Spot block power supply will work if I run a dual tube Sushi box (More or Glass Butterfly that needs about 500mA after warmup) off the 500 mA feed and a single tube box off of one of the 300 mA feeds. I realize they will be slow to warm up, but am wondering if they will perform to spec?? I will not be buying a 2nd CIOKS 7 supply, so the 2nd board has to run off the 1-Spot.
Someone with direct experience can correct me, but my understanding is that the ratings on the OneSpot brick supplies are more of suggestions than hard limits, so I would expect it to work just fine.
 
A ? for the sushi hive mind: I will be shaking up my boards, and am wondering if my 1 Spot block power supply will work if I run a dual tube Sushi box (More or Glass Butterfly that needs about 500mA after warmup) off the 500 mA feed and a single tube box off of one of the 300 mA feeds. I realize they will be slow to warm up, but am wondering if they will perform to spec?? I will not be buying a 2nd CIOKS 7 supply, so the 2nd board has to run off the 1-Spot.

I think it needs 500mA even after warmup. Maybe you can get a current doubler cable that takes 2 slots on the power supply to 1 output.

Other than that, and I know you said you didn't want to but CIOKs really is the best power supply, especially for high power pedals like Sushi Box. They do make a 4 channel for a little less, and I've never had a problem daisy chaining 2 or 3 normal pedals on a single output. You also see them pop up here in Classifieds from time to time.
 
So what happened to the live stream? I was there, saw the note and figured it wasn't happening. Oh well, maybe next time.
It happened for about 20 minutes, then my internet decided it shouldn't happen. I was able to get back on for another 40 minutes, but youtube wouldn't let me resume with the same link so I had to start a new one.
 
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Dumb question - reading back through this thread, see some people talking about e.g. tone stack set at 0-10-0.

I'm guessing this is bass-mid-treble? But what do the numbers mean? Does 0 mean 12 o'clock, or fully counter-clockwise? And 10 means 10 o'clock or does it mean fully clockwise at max setting?
 
Dumb question - reading back through this thread, see some people talking about e.g. tone stack set at 0-10-0.

I'm guessing this is bass-mid-treble? But what do the numbers mean? Does 0 mean 12 o'clock, or fully counter-clockwise? And 10 means 10 o'clock or does it mean fully clockwise at max setting?
Not dumb, I had the same question. Think Fender knobs: 0 is minimum or fully ccw, 10 is max or fully cw
 
Dumb question - reading back through this thread, see some people talking about e.g. tone stack set at 0-10-0.

I'm guessing this is bass-mid-treble? But what do the numbers mean? Does 0 mean 12 o'clock, or fully counter-clockwise? And 10 means 10 o'clock or does it mean fully clockwise at max setting?
Usually it refers to B-M-T on a scale of 0 (fully ccw) to 10 (fully cw).
 
(Ignorant) question about the Double Tracker function on the G-Butterfly for Sushi Box FX : I am not familiar with this circuit.
If it outputs 2 notes for each input note, what do the "detune 1" and "detune 2" controls do? Are they independent volume levels for notes that are detuned, each by a fixed interval with respect to the input note (If so, what are the downtuned intervals? Do they actually control the degree/ interval by which the notes are detuned? Does "detuned" in this context mean flatted? I always though a double tracker just duplicated the input in some way.........trying to wrap my head around this one.....
 
(Ignorant) question about the Double Tracker function on the G-Butterfly for Sushi Box FX : I am not familiar with this circuit.
If it outputs 2 notes for each input note, what do the "detune 1" and "detune 2" controls do? Are they independent volume levels for notes that are detuned, each by a fixed interval with respect to the input note (If so, what are the downtuned intervals? Do they actually control the degree/ interval by which the notes are detuned? Does "detuned" in this context mean flatted? I always though a double tracker just duplicated the input in some way.........trying to wrap my head around this one.....
The knobs control the interval by which each voice is detuned. If they're both exactly 100% in tune it just sounds like one voice, so the way it works is by "micro-detuning" one or both voices up to +/-30 cents (if I remember right). Not enough to actually sound out-of-tune from the rest of your band, but just enough to put some space between the two voices. There are other ways to do double-tracking like a really short-duration delay or by putting one voice out of phase (which ends up sounding more or less like chorus), but this is the way that sounds best to me.
 
The knobs control the interval by which each voice is detuned. ....the way it works is by "micro-detuning" one or both voices up to +/-30 cents (if I remember right). Not enough to actually sound out-of-tune from the rest of your band, but just enough to put some space between the two voices. There are other ways to do double-tracking like a really short-duration delay or by putting one voice out of phase (which ends up sounding more or less like chorus), but this is the way that sounds best to me.

Thanks much-so are they "in tune" at noon with the left side of the sweep flat and the right side sharp? Also-I see the 3rd knob is "time"; does that control the time delay? Since there's so much going on inside this box, either a detailed explanation on the Sushi site, or a link to an explanation by the manufacturer that makes the chip would be helpful (and save time answering questions like these ;) ).
 
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OK, there seems to be different answers so, I guess I will have to experiment!
It depends on what you're hoping to achieve. Put it first or early in the chain if you don't want sub content hitting your pedals. For instance, you may find that overdrive and compressor pedals respond more consistently and predictably if you put a HPF ahead of them, because then you don't have all kinds of sub-low content triggering the compressor or overwhelming the overdrive pedal.

If you like the way your pedalboard is responding, and want to filter out extraneous low end for speaker protection, then put it at the end of your chain before the amp. Or even in the amp FX loop.
 
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Thanks much-so are they "in tune" at noon with the left side of the sweep flat and the right side sharp? Also-I see the 3rd knob is "time"; does that control the time delay? Since there's so much going on inside this box, either a detailed explanation on the Sushi site, or a link to an explanation by the manufacturer that makes the chip would be helpful (and save time answering questions like these ;) ).
Yup, correct in all regards.

My eventual plan is to have a full user's manual written up for the pedal that can be included with it to give details about everything. Frankly I want to have that for every pedal I make, as it would save a lot of time for everyone, I just need to find the time to sit down and do it.
 
It’s arrived! Rehearsal tonight and Thursday to run it through its paces!

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or big knob for toe adjustment:

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Thank you for doing the Q&A. @Sushi Box FX I listened to the first part of the Q&A but the second half was muffled and I was not able to get into it. If possible can we get a memo about what was covered as I am surely not the only one interested.


Yeah the Q&A did not go exactly as planned. My internet dropped after a few minutes so I went upstairs to be next to the router, but I couldn't bring my interface and microphone with my so I was stuck with the crappy webcam audio.

I'll have to go through and watch it again to remember what was covered. I know details were asked about Furthermore, which I don't really have a lot of right now. It's still in the works, but has been pushed back in the queue due to Venus X being my main R&D priority right now. I have a general idea of what I want it to be and I have a few things down on paper, but nothing super finalized right now. I am planning on it being dual tubes and the same size enclosure as Dreamcatcher/Detective, but that's all I really said about it.

A question did come up if I was ever planning to get back into compressors, and the answer there is yes. I have one prototype on the bench right now, but I either made it too subtle or it's just not actually working, it just sounds like a clean preamp. I have a couple other ideas I want to try out, but again those will be pushed back until I can clear some other things off my list.

A question also came up if I was planning to do a "Noble killer" to which the answer is both yes and no. I am planning to do a flexible, great sounding preamp with a great sounding D.I. section (Furthermore), which is what Noble is. It will be smaller and less expensive, which as I discussed last night is largely due to me using 9-12VDC input rather than AC input, which means I don't need a power transformer, which is the largest and probably the most expensive single component in the Noble. I like what Noble does, it's a very well-designed and well-built unit and I have a lot of respect for them. I'm not trying to steal customers from them, just trying to offer something a little different that checks a lot of the same boxes.

I think those were kind of the highlights, I haven't gone back and watched it again yet, but that probably summarizes the bulk of it.