The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

[Real Soon]

On paper it looks like a reasonable difference. So you have the grid stopper resitor, basically the input resistor to the first stage. With Bright off it's 47k straight in, with Bright on it goes to 100k with a 4.7nF capacitor in parallel. But apparently that just isn't an audible difference?

I wonder if it might be more noticeable in a DI or full-range PA setting vs thru a standard bass cabinet, and also if the bass in question is, say, a thumpy P with antediluvian-aged flats vs a sprightly active bass with Nordy Big Singles and fresh rounds....

 

[Sushi Box FX]

I wonder if it might be more noticeable in a DI or full-range PA setting vs thru a standard bass cabinet, and also if the bass in question is, say, a thumpy P with antediluvian-aged flats vs a sprightly active bass with Nordy Big Singles and fresh rounds....

It's very possible. One of these days I may pick up another bass so I can have a little variety in the demo clips I post. Until then you have to deal with my Bartolini mk i and my flatwounds

 

[Sushi Box FX]

Quick question for those of you that have December orders: I've been planning to stop using the laser for artwork and start using the UV printer for all builds starting January, would anyone be terribly upset if I started it in December instead? I'm getting tired of all the work that comes with lasering, UV printing is a lot less hassle

 

[TwototheValley]

 

[Rocksolid]

So during this extended period of no gigs (other than Church) Most of my playing around home has been with a Passive P or J. When using my Particle Accelerator either into my Berg IP310 or Quilter BB800/Berg HG410 at home I have been a little surprised at how high I have run the High knob (2 o'clockish) to crisp up the tone when using a passive bass, and I wouldn't class myself as someone that wants a particularly bright tone. Fast forward to yesterday when I pulled out my Fender Active PJ5. Not a particularly bright bass, but being active it's highs are generally at a higher freq than my passive basses. Plugged it into the PA and I was stunned how bright it was!! Ended up turning the high knob down to 10 o'clock and could have gone more probably.

I am assuming the high tone control on the PA is shelving. So for instance if the freq the High tone control is increasing from is 5kHz, and the highs of a passive bass are at 4kHz, do they sort of miss each other? Does that makes sense. My active PJ5 might have it's high freqs centred around 6kHz, and therefore is very reactive to the PA's tone control.

I'm just trying to understand how my Basses and PA interact. Can anyone shed some light on this?

 

[TwototheValley]

So during this extended period of no gigs (other than Church) Most of my playing around home has been with a Passive P or J. When using my Particle Accelerator either into my Berg IP310 or Quilter BB800/Berg HG410 at home I have been a little surprised at how high I have run the High knob (2 o'clockish) to crisp up the tone when using a passive bass, and I wouldn't class myself as someone that wants a particularly bright tone. Fast forward to yesterday when I pulled out my Fender Active PJ5. Not a particularly bright bass, but being active it's highs are generally at a higher freq than my passive basses. Plugged it into the PA and I was stunned how bright it was!! Ended up turning the high knob down to 10 o'clock and could have gone more probably.

I am assuming the high tone control on the PA is shelving. So for instance if the freq the High tone control is increasing from is 5kHz, and the highs of a passive bass are at 4kHz, do they sort of miss each other? Does that makes sense. My active PJ5 might have it's high freqs centred around 6kHz, and therefore is very reactive to the PA's tone control.

I'm just trying to understand how my Basses and PA interact. Can anyone shed some light on this?

I suspect it relates to the peculiarities of the F-2B/Fender tonestack, namely the interactivity between the frequency controls, and the effects of these at different gain settings.

There was a very comprehensive explanation of this (which would be much better than any I could offer) written on the Shift Line website and referenced in the relevant thread on this board.

Shift Line Olympic MkIIIS Tube Preamp: EQ Section

I assume it is applicable to the PA...happy to be corrected if not.

In any case, it makes for fascinating reading, and stands as a testament to the genius of early pioneers in the field of amplifier technology.

 

[Sushi Box FX]

I suspect it relates to the peculiarities of the F-2B/Fender tonestack, namely the interactivity between the frequency controls, and the effects of these at different gain settings.

There was a very comprehensive explanation of this (which would be much better than any I could offer) written on the Shift Line website and referenced in the relevant thread on this board.

Shift Line Olympic MkIIIS Tube Preamp: EQ Section

I assume it is applicable to the PA...happy to be corrected if not.

In any case, it makes for fascinating reading, and stands as a testament to the genius of early pioneers in the field of amplifier technology.

A very good read, I enjoyed it. The general theory absolutely applies to the PA, but the curves of the frequency response are a little different. I use the Duncan Tonestack Calculator (which I highly recommend) every time anyone asks me about specific frequencies, so I can generate some plots if there are specific settings anyone is curious about the PA tonestack response for.

 

[Rocksolid]

@TwototheValley I'll have read of this tomorrow. Thanks for the link. (It's early evening in Australia and I have stuff to get done!)
@Sushi Box FX before I purchased a PA you did send me some graphs generated on DTC. I went back and had a look at them again just now. What I find interesting about the graphs (esp. the one showing cut mids) is that it looks to be around 500hz which to me makes me think I should be able to get a bit of a scooped SVT tone (not that I really want it often) but it's not something I feel I can achieve. The high control freq is quite high also, which makes me think things are as I expressed above.

Just to be clear - none of this is a criticism, more about understanding. Winding the Highs up to get what I want sounds good, with no harshness, and without introducing hiss. And certainly with this sort of tone stack, wanting to see all controls at 12 oclock isn't going to work. So using your ears, not your eyes is key.

 

[1983L2000]

So here's a question for Slampegg owners/those that have tried a Slampegg: would you be willing to sacrifice a little gain to get a louder output? It would technically be less true to the original, but would still very much have the Ampeg flavor.

As another cat with the Slampegg on order (and thus technically not who you're asking ), I'm also looking to abuse the gain heavily, and would take that over extra headroom.

My ilk are probably in the minority, but I'm not nearly enough of a purist to want to bypass my Quilter's preamp stage (i.e. drive the power amp directly), and in fact I somewhat obsessively keep my level as close to unity as possible throughout the signal chain before hitting the head, save for deliberate things like punching a pedal's input gain.

I'm also in the gain over extra headroom for my intended use.

 

[1983L2000]

A very good read, I enjoyed it. The general theory absolutely applies to the PA, but the curves of the frequency response are a little different. I use the Duncan Tonestack Calculator (which I highly recommend) every time anyone asks me about specific frequencies, so I can generate some plots if there are specific settings anyone is curious about the PA tonestack response for.

I'd be interested in the LU plot myself

 

[extreme]

Quick question for those of you that have December orders: I've been planning to stop using the laser for artwork and start using the UV printer for all builds starting January, would anyone be terribly upset if I started it in December instead? I'm getting tired of all the work that comes with lasering, UV printing is a lot less hassle

I'm totally great with that! Since my Nov. and Dec. pedals are more or less matching color/knob/led, etc. it would be cool if they were both the same (either both laser or both UV), but it's certainly not a deal breaker. I am definitely excited about the UV printer and was almost going to ask you if I could pay a fee to get my Nov. pedal UV printed, but I didn't want to be a pest.

 

[Sushi Box FX]

I'm totally great with that! Since my Nov. and Dec. pedals are more or less matching color/knob/led, etc. it would be cool if they were both the same (either both laser or both UV), but it's certainly not a deal breaker. I am definitely excited about the UV printer and was almost going to ask you if I could pay a fee to get my Nov. pedal UV printed, but I didn't want to be a pest.

All the engraving for November has already been done so it's too late for UV printing in November, but message me your order number and I can engrave your December one as well so they match.

I guess I'll do that for December, I will plan on UV printing everything, but if you have strong feelings about laser engraving I will still do it on request.

Starting in January I may still offer it on request, but I'll probably charge extra for it to dissuade people from making me do it

 

[extreme]

All the engraving for November has already been done so it's too late for UV printing in November, but message me your order number and I can engrave your December one as well so they match.

I guess I'll do that for December, I will plan on UV printing everything, but if you have strong feelings about laser engraving I will still do it on request.

Starting in January I may still offer it on request, but I'll probably charge extra for it to dissuade people from making me do it

I'll probably just go with the flow on UV printing for Dec. order...I'm sure it's going to look really nice! Excited to see the Nov. order once it's ready!!!

 

[Pedalnetics]

I know a few people were interested in the Night Owl Edison as a comparison; great price on one in the classifieds:
For Sale - Nemesis, Edison, Micrtron III

 

[Lowendtech]

I know a few people were interested in the Night Owl Edison as a comparison; great price on one in the classifieds:
For Sale - Nemesis, Edison, Micrtron III

I rather liked the Edison as a tone enhancer. Ultimately, I couldn’t live with the odd form factor and let it go. It took up too much space for one tube and one knob. Cool as it was.

 

[Pedalnetics]

I rather liked the Edison as a tone enhancer. Ultimately, I couldn’t live with the odd form factor and let it go. It took up too much space for one tube and one knob. Cool as it was.

Yeah, and I've opened it and they definitely could have tweaked that to be friendlier; there's a lot of wasted space in there.
I still love it so far, but I fully expect one of the SB pedals I have on the way kick it off my board.

 

[kranahan]

I rather liked the Edison as a tone enhancer. Ultimately, I couldn’t live with the odd form factor and let it go. It took up too much space for one tube and one knob. Cool as it was.

I’m on the same page. I have have an Archetype, which is an Edison Pre on roids. I even asked Seth if he’d be willing to make Edison pres with top jacks. That was a hard no. He does have some of the best finishes on pedals, IMO. The one he’s releasing on Monday is awesome looking!

 

[Lowendtech]

I’m on the same page. I have have an Archetype, which is an Edison Pre on roids. I even asked Seth if he’d be willing to make Edison pres with top jacks. That was a hard no. He does have some of the best finishes on pedals, IMO. The one he’s releasing on Monday is awesome looking!

Having a 2 knob Archetype on hand made letting the Edison go, very easy. I pretty much rage-ordered it after missing out on the Sunray.

 

[Pedalnetics]

The one he’s releasing on Monday is awesome looking!

Ooo that is pretty

 

[FenderP]

Quick question for those of you that have December orders: I've been planning to stop using the laser for artwork and start using the UV printer for all builds starting January, would anyone be terribly upset if I started it in December instead? I'm getting tired of all the work that comes with lasering, UV printing is a lot less hassle

Nope.