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Thunderbird Club

That is precisely why I got rid of my StingRay, maybe I should have tried those strings. I could never get on with it and when I played it I thought it sounded like someone dropping some pots and pans- I put it down to my heavy handedness and gave up. Interestingly, I always got comments about how good it sounded even though I didn't like the sound of it.
How did you run the bass's controls?
 
It was a two band one. I kept it pretty flat from memory.
Ah, hmmm.

The Stingrays I've tried are some of the few active basses I like. I guess partly because they don't sound too clean and sterile like many do to my ears.

I've also generally only tried them with vintage-voiced amps and cabs, though.

As far as top end, my own cab doesn't put out anything over 4-5khz, so it's not much of an issue if a bass is really bright.
 
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It was a two band one. I kept it pretty flat from memory.
IIRC - the vintage two band (which I like much more than the three band) is Treb cut/boost and Bass boost only. I keep my volume at about 75% up with Treb at 25% on (which is about 50% cut) and bass at about 75% on (which is 75% boost). With those settings Chromes sound harsh and clanky, the low mids sound very prominent and the lows sound boomy. But those same settings with Black Beauties tighten up the lows and even out the mids while knocking out the top end sizzle and finger/fret noise. Makes the Ray a much easier bass to play. It's really a very unforgiving bass (pup and preamp design) for poor left and right hand technique (which I have in spades).

About the only other Stingray string option that worked for me was nickel flats and mute pads. That completely nails the "Another one bites the dust" bass line for me. But I'm just not much of a flats fan so Black Beauties it was.
 
@GBassNorth and @Sartori - thanks guys.
Yes I used mine with a GK rig and it was too bright and clear for my taste. Now I think about it, I was probably cutting the treble and boosting the bass a little too. Just too clanky for me, with my Neanderthal technique.
I found I get on much better with G&L active basses- I replaced the StingRay with an Asat, which can also run in passive quite credibly.
 
@Gaolee - Dang this is a chatty group. I had to go back nearly 20 pages in the thread just to find the TBird string discussion we were having on Monday (4 days ago).

This was my summary based on the input from the club...
For those that replied to my very specific player string choice question, many thanks!
Very helpful and lots of food for thought.

I was surprised to hear so many suggestions for flats on a bird, not what I would have expected, a P bass - yes, a Bird - hmmmm. I've always been a rounds guy on everything except P basses, which I typically use for Motown stuff. Just not sure I'm ready to try flats on a TBird until I've exhausted my rounds options. If I go down the flat path I'll consider the GHS Brite Flats and Cobalt Flats.

I did give Cobalt rounds a try when they first came out but it was on a Fender Telecaster with dual mudbuckers. Absoutly hated them and ripped the strings off after five minutes of playing. On that bass they were completely mid and upper mid focused and exceptionally aggressive on the frets, nut and my fingers. I may have had a bad set or might not have given them enough time to settle in but they just weren't my cup of tea. I did keep the set and now use them as string files to fine tune the grooves on the nuts of my basses (yes, they even make quick work out of a brass nut).

The TI Power Bass suggestion is interesting. I have a light gauge set of those on an Alembic I own and really like them on that bass.

Have not tried Boomers so that might be an option. Have tried High Beams on other basses and thought they were ok.

Sunbeams are a real possibility. My recollection is they are a relatively warm and mellow sounding string with very little top end zing.

All that said, to narrow the field down a bit, does anyone have a clue which string (power bass, boomer, high beam or sunbeam) is a warmer smoother sounding string with minimal finger noise on slides and frets?

I still need to buy strings for my Bird and narrowed it down to the four different ones in the last sentence above. If anyone else either has or plans on putting Power Bass or Boomers or High Beams or Sunbeams on their Bird I'd be willing to install one of the other four options and we can compare notes. The info might help others with their string selections.
 
@GBassNorth and @Sartori - thanks guys.
Yes I used mine with a GK rig and it was too bright and clear for my taste. Now I think about it, I was probably cutting the treble and boosting the bass a little too. Just too clanky for me, with my Neanderthal technique.
I found I get on much better with G&L active basses- I replaced the StingRay with an Asat, which can also run in passive quite credibly.
G&Ls are great.

I, too, have a very heavy handed technique (deliberately so... I like the way my basses sound with the strings being hit very aggressively).

Not having cabs with tweeters helps a lot. So does overdrive.
 
G&Ls are great.

I, too, have a very heavy handed technique (deliberately so... I like the way my basses sound with the strings being hit very aggressively).

Not having cabs with tweeters helps a lot. So does overdrive.
I've always considered the passive tone on every G&L I've ever owned or played to be the best sounding noise to come out of any Fender linage or clone product. Not as fond of their active tones but you can't argue with the sheer number of sounds you can get out of a G&L.

That said, if you like the G&L passive tone and all the active tone options you gotta try the Gibby 2013/14 EB or the 2015 TBird or the new 2017 EB. I'm a huge fan of that pup and preamp combo.

PS - your cab and overdrive comment is spot on also. I've defeated every tweeter in every cab I've ever owned. Never found a good reason to have one yet. And mild to moderate tube overdrive is yummy.
 
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I've always considered the passive tone on every G&L I've ever owned or played to be the best sounding noise to come out of any Fender linage or clone product. Not as fond of their active tones but you can't argue with the sheer number of sounds you can get out of a G&L.

That said, if you like the G&L passive tone and all the active tone options you gotta try the Gibby 2013/14 EB or the 2015 TBird or the new 2017 EB. I'm a huge fan of that pup and preamp combo.

PS - your cab and overdrive comment is spot on also. I've defeated every tweeter in every cab I've ever owned. Never found a good reason to have one yet. And mild to moderate tube overdrive is yummy.

I have often thought about the EB 13/ 14. Might need to wait till after the Epi Vintage TBirds though.
 
@Gaolee - Dang this is a chatty group. I had to go back nearly 20 pages in the thread just to find the TBird string discussion we were having on Monday (4 days ago).

This was my summary based on the input from the club...


I still need to buy strings for my Bird and narrowed it down to the four different ones in the last sentence above. If anyone else either has or plans on putting Power Bass or Boomers or High Beams or Sunbeams on their Bird I'd be willing to install one of the other four options and we can compare notes. The info might help others with their string selections.
I like Sunbeams a lot. They just didn't work that well on the 2015. I like them on the EB, but not the 'Bird with the same electronics. Go figure. I also really like Cobalt flats on more traditional 'Birds. They aren't working as well on the 2015. I had Black Beauties on a bolt-on way back when, and they sounded great. But, a 2015 is not a bolt-on 'Bird. So, I'll keep trying to figure it out. Maybe a stainless round. I'm not sure what the difference between Hi-Beams and Fat-Beams might be. Low Riders might work, too. So, maybe for the sake of figuring it out, Hi-Beams would be the way to go. But, I doubt that what will work on a 2015 would translate to another 'Bird without some thought.
 
@Gaolee - Dang this is a chatty group. I had to go back nearly 20 pages in the thread just to find the TBird string discussion we were having on Monday (4 days ago).

This was my summary based on the input from the club...


I still need to buy strings for my Bird and narrowed it down to the four different ones in the last sentence above. If anyone else either has or plans on putting Power Bass or Boomers or High Beams or Sunbeams on their Bird I'd be willing to install one of the other four options and we can compare notes. The info might help others with their string selections.

I have flats on my midtown. I was using the cobalt flats because of all the great things I had heard, but they were tearing up my fingers. The callouses were getting thick to the point of peeling off. I changed over to chromes and my fingers are back to normal but still getting the sound I was looking for. I may try cobalt rounds at some point in the future, but I won't have the flats again.
 
I have flats on my midtown. I was using the cobalt flats because of all the great things I had heard, but they were tearing up my fingers. The callouses were getting thick to the point of peeling off. I changed over to chromes and my fingers are back to normal but still getting the sound I was looking for. I may try cobalt rounds at some point in the future, but I won't have the flats again.
I found Cobalts to be a very aggressive non fret and non nut friendly string. After a few days on one of my Spector basses there was a pile of brass filings around the nut. I ripped them off of that bass (the second bass I tried them on) and they are now used as string files for fine tuning nut grooves - they work great for that.

Edit - I believe my Cobalts were the rounds, not the flats. Very rough texture and very aggressive string. I'd be very concerned about premature fret wear with these strings. YMMV
 
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I found Cobalts to be a very aggressive non fret and non nut friendly string. After a few days on one of my Spector basses there was a pile of brass filings around the nut. I ripped them off of that bass (the second bass I tried them on) and they are now used as string files for fine tuning nut grooves - they work great for that.
Good to know. A problem and an unrelated solution. Thanks x 2!
 
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I haven't had any destruction problems from Cobalt Flats. I could see Cobalt rounds doing that. Those would be like playing with files. I have a set of Hi-Beams coming from Bass Strings Online and will report back once those are on. The Cobalt flats are better on the 2015 than the Sadowsky flats I had on there before. Those were a step down from Sun-Beams. I had some odd dead string problems with Sun-Beams that may have been related to installation, since they have a round core. Hi-Beams are made the same way, so I'll be a little more careful about making sure there's a sharp bend before trimming them to length.
 
I don't much care for SG shaped bass guitars. I would like an SG with six strings. Those look right, and having played one now and again, I can say that they generally feel pretty good, too. They are usually lightweight, compared to a Les Paul or ES335. I'm not sure why ES335s are heavy, but they often are in my experience. My EB-2 is fairly heavy as well.
I meant EB, wrote Sg by accident. Sorry.
 
I haven't had any destruction problems from Cobalt Flats. I could see Cobalt rounds doing that. Those would be like playing with files. I have a set of Hi-Beams coming from Bass Strings Online and will report back once those are on. The Cobalt flats are better on the 2015 than the Sadowsky flats I had on there before. Those were a step down from Sun-Beams. I had some odd dead string problems with Sun-Beams that may have been related to installation, since they have a round core. Hi-Beams are made the same way, so I'll be a little more careful about making sure there's a sharp bend before trimming them to length.

I had assumed the cobalt rounds. I have never used round core strings. What is the advantage?
 
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@Gaolee - Dang this is a chatty group. I had to go back nearly 20 pages in the thread just to find the TBird string discussion we were having on Monday (4 days ago).

This was my summary based on the input from the club...


I still need to buy strings for my Bird and narrowed it down to the four different ones in the last sentence above. If anyone else either has or plans on putting Power Bass or Boomers or High Beams or Sunbeams on their Bird I'd be willing to install one of the other four options and we can compare notes. The info might help others with their string selections.

I have DR HiBeams on my Goth and like it very much. 2 BIG qualifications tho: I never heard anything else on it, I got it unstrung and just put these on as they were handy. Second, I'm playing very low volume. Home practice and tiny rooms through a zoom Bassman emulator and a mixer. 50s 60s + a couple of 70s.
And Christmas carols/songs. People told me The bass sounded good but I actually was going mad not hearing myself at all through the foldback speaker.
So not sure I'm a valid point of reference.

I have often thought about the EB 13/ 14. Might need to wait till after the Epi Vintage TBirds though.

Ah... similar thoughts here. I have a fuzzy agreement that I can get a 'good' bass this year, after tax return.

I started at a 50s series P bass (or Sting or similar).
Then I convinced myself that the EB 13 or 14 would be the one. Gassed hard for one of those. Thought of a 2015 T'Bird, or a 2012, 2013 Goldie or a Cataldo or local build.
But - money... and I have a Bird that I'm loving already.

Now that new Epi is coming. I could imagine one of those in ebony in my hands.

EB is still favourite I think but who knows where I'll end up.

Also truth be told what I have is enough for what I do and need. But whenever is enough actually enough. :)
 

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