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Thunderbird Club

We're off to historic Bremerton, Wa. tomorrow, I'll be all business, but tonight it's bottom's up
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While not definitive, perhaps it adds a data point. My serial number says February 2014 but the dates on pickups say October 2013.

Not super surprising, having components built & ready to go before hand :)


But, that does bring to mind another question?
I've heard rumors that the pre-2015 TB+ pickups are different in some way from the post-2015 units (none used in Gibson 'birds in 2015, afaik?).
Any of you guys have both? That you could compare?


My '13 had '16 pickups included in the package, originals long gone....I'm somewhat curious why someone would keep the '13-ish pickups over the '16s :unsure:
 
You have *NO* idea how relieved I was that those two screws ended up aligned like that :nailbiting:
LOL - I use the screw method ("Ahem" added in anticipation of the sophomore class arriving) as a secondary super quick visual check when scanning ads for CP basses. Going through the ads you can't rely on the description or stated year to be accurate.

- So first thing I do is quickly scan Eppi bird sales, specifically looking for birds without a front jack. That picks up all the CPs (you obviously have to discard the Goths, VPs, and four knob Pro models).

- Then I quickly run through just those CPs ads and look for the pickguard screw to pickup top alignment. Very quick and easy to do if you're on the hunt for an early CP with the unique pup placement.
 
I am a master electrician. Residential grounding and bonding can happen in a number of ways.

The current standard is two ground wires. One to the water pipe and one to a grounding rod.

A ground wire to a grounding rod can come from the main panel. It can also come from the meter base, or an exterior main disconnect. It will usually be #6 copper solid or stranded, usually bare but not necessarily.

A ground wire to the water pipe will usually come from the main panel will run to a clamp on a cold water pipe. Wire size depending on service size. Can be copper or aluminum, bare or coated.

Bonding between ground and neutral should occur at the first point of disconnect. This may be an outside or inside disconnect, or a main panel with a main breaker.

The bonding may be done in various ways. Could be a bonding strap, bonding screw or a wire. Either way, you should have continuity between the neutral bar and ground. Once it is bonded at the first point of disconnect, no other service equipment gets bonded downstream.

Bonding seems to confuse even some electricians, I see a lot done incorrectly.

Don't know if any of this will solve your noise issue. Just wanted to lay out how it should all look.
 
mixing business and pleasure tonight……Gardinos in Los Gatos is by far one of the coolest venues to play at……:cool::cool:
View attachment 5176606

I've ridden both my road bicycle and VFR to Los Gatos (love the HW9 descent from Skyline into Mountain View!) and stopped for lunch when doing work near there. Don't think I've been to Gardinos but I may have been there many years ago.

I have been to "The Cats" at the base of HW9 going west to SC. My ex-gf's dad played there in a Dixieland band. He was cool - she was evil...
 
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What about my Goth?
The neck pickup is 3/4" south of the Gibson, that's when I first started looking at the pickguard screw as a quick indicator. The bridge pickups are basically the same, I think I measured the Goth as being ~ 1/16th further south - which I'd suspect is an error in my measuring. BTW I believe they are both 2011 but Nashville vs China build (of course).

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There is no visible pipe in the breaker box but all the ground wires exit the top of the panel and into the wall.

View attachment 5176339 View attachment 5176340

Looking closer at these pics, I would say you likely have a main disconnect somewhere before that panel. (Based on no main breaker on this panel and use of SER cable)
Disconnect will likely have a big 2 pole 100a or 125a breaker in it.
I would look in there for the grounding and bonding.
Or thats a sub panel fed from a main panel elsewhere in the house.
 
Looking closer at these pics, I would say you likely have a main disconnect somewhere before that panel. (Based on no main breaker on this panel and use of SER cable)
Disconnect will likely have a big 2 pole 100a or 125a breaker in it.
I would look in there for the grounding and bonding.
Or thats a sub panel fed from a main panel elsewhere in the house.
IMG_6149.jpeg
 
I am a master electrician. Residential grounding and bonding can happen in a number of ways.

The current standard is two ground wires. One to the water pipe and one to a grounding rod.

A ground wire to a grounding rod can come from the main panel. It can also come from the meter base, or an exterior main disconnect. It will usually be #6 copper solid or stranded, usually bare but not necessarily.

A ground wire to the water pipe will usually come from the main panel will run to a clamp on a cold water pipe. Wire size depending on service size. Can be copper or aluminum, bare or coated.

Bonding between ground and neutral should occur at the first point of disconnect. This may be an outside or inside disconnect, or a main panel with a main breaker.

The bonding may be done in various ways. Could be a bonding strap, bonding screw or a wire. Either way, you should have continuity between the neutral bar and ground. Once it is bonded at the first point of disconnect, no other service equipment gets bonded downstream.

Bonding seems to confuse even some electricians, I see a lot done incorrectly.

Don't know if any of this will solve your noise issue. Just wanted to lay out how it should all look.
Now I'm prompted to dig into the Electrical chapters of the IRC book... just passed my exam for Residential Building Inspector certification... I'm a little light on electrical expertise.
 

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