Thunderbird Club

[GBassNorth]

I could ask this in gen pop, but I'd rather ask you guys. I like to watch some of Scott's, from Scott's Bass Lessons, videos. No lessons, but some other fun stuff. He happened to mention something you should do when changing strings that made sense, but I'd never heard it before. Once it's tuned up, he said to push down on the string just in front of the bridge saddle, to create a sharper angle at the saddle. So I was setting intonation after I changed the strings last time, and once I had it in tune open and at 12, I pushed down the string, and it went flat again at the 12th fret. This happened a few times. I can't see it being a good thing to keep creating another break angle by pushing down the string, so I assume you only do that once, but then after you readjust the intonation, that break angle will now be behind the saddle, or possibly even weirder, in front. So this is now confusing.

Thoughts?

As most have already said - not necessary, not normal and just plain nutz. I've heard it, I've seen others do it and I've tried it myself. Didn't see any advantage in doing it, found zero difference in tuning, sustain or anything else it's supposed to solve.

Once you've installed a new set of strings and brought them to pitch just be sure to stretch them by gently pulling up each string about an inch or two off the fretboard a few times. Then retune, set intonation and go on with life.

 

[BklynKen]

As most have already said - not necessary, not normal and just plain nutz. I've heard it, I've seen others do it and I've tried it myself. Didn't see any advantage in doing it, found zero difference in tuning, sustain or anything else it's supposed to solve.

Once you've installed a new set of strings and brought them to pitch just be sure to stretch them by gently pulling up each string about an inch or two off the fretboard a few times. Then retune, set intonation and go on with life.

That's exactly what I do. Plus the strings are under so much tension that I'm not sure adding any sort of break angle would give any sort of advantage. Like others have said.

 

[Chucky Stiletti]

Thurs...

 

[Chucky Stiletti]

Here's this again. Before and after new pickguard.
View attachment 3390649
Note lack of tugbar-carefully preserved.
View attachment 3390651

like that dedicated pick holder..

 

[Kriegs]

Birds on Thursday

 

[GBassNorth]

Question for all you Thunderbirders!

I've started gassing for one, and would love to add an Epiphone Thunderbird to my stable. I play P basses and Stingrays, and I prefer the slightly wider necks to those of a jazz bass.

I understand only the standard bolt on Epiphone Thunderbirds have the wider neck, while Classic Pro and Vintage Pro have 1.5" jazz like neck width.

Even still, I take it both Classic and Vintage are a better choice for that rocking classic Thunderbird tone, and probably have better QC and quality in general? Best thing would be to try them all I suppose, but that might not be possible that soon.

And the survey says...

Some surprising results, which may explain why I just never worry about 4 string neck sizes. Takes me all of two seconds to get used to a new four string neck size. Five string is a different beast with vastly different string spacing and neck width options.

So here's the data (all in glorious inches vs that metric stuff that's so much easier to use):
Note: Heel measured at the 20th fret on each bass, and thickness measured at the 12th fret on each bass.
1978 Music Man Stingray (PreEB) with bolt on neck
Nut=1.625" 12th fret=2.20" Heel=2.40" Thickness=1.0"

1968 Fender Precision Bass with bolt on neck
Nut=1.625" 12th fret=2.250" Heel=2.50" Thickness=1.0"

Epiphone Goth Thunderbird with bolt on neck
Nut=1.50" 12th fret=2.10" Heel=2.33" Thickness=1.0"

Epiphone Thunderbird Vintage Pro with through neck
Nut=1.50" 12th fret=2.10" Heel=2.33" Thickness=1.0"

Gibson Thunderbird Gold Anniversary Edition with through neck
Nut=1.50" 12th fret=2.10" Heel=2.33" Thickness=1.0"

And there ya have it, not a ton of difference in these necks once you get past the nut.

Oh and because it's Thunderbird Thursday I'll post the measurement staging area...

....yes, that's a mouse. Apparently "mouse" is the new "shoe" as defined by trendsetter @fasterpussycat

 

[mouthmw]

And the survey says...

Beautiful collection, and thanks for the results! Real nice!

 

[BklynKen]

And the survey says...

Some surprising results, which may explain why I just never worry about 4 string neck sizes. Takes me all of two seconds to get used to a new four string neck size. Five string is a different beast with vastly different string spacing and neck width options.

Do here's the data (all in glorious inches vs that metric stuff that's so much easier to use):
Note: Heel measured at the 20th fret on each bass, and thickness measured at the 12th fret on each bass.
1978 Music Man Stingray (PreEB) with bolt on neck
Nut=1.625" 12th fret=2.20" Heel=2.40" Thickness=1.0"

1968 Fender Precision Bass with bolt on neck
Nut=1.625" 12th fret=2.250" Heel=2.50" Thickness=1.0"

Epiphone Goth Thunderbird with bolt on neck
Nut=1.50" 12th fret=2.10" Heel=2.33" Thickness=1.0"

Epiphone Thunderbird Vintage Pro with through neck
Nut=1.50" 12th fret=2.10" Heel=2.33" Thickness=1.0"

Gibson Thunderbird Gold Anniversary Edition with through neck
Nut=1.50" 12th fret=2.10" Heel=2.33" Thickness=1.0"

And there ya have it, not a ton of difference in these necks once you get past the nut.

Oh and because it's Thunderbird Thursday I'll post the measurement staging area...
View attachment 3390731
....yes, that's a mouse. Apparently "mouse" is the new "shoe" as defined by trendsetter @fasterpussycat

Cute mouse.

 

[PillO]

I could ask this in gen pop, but I'd rather ask you guys. I like to watch some of Scott's, from Scott's Bass Lessons, videos. No lessons, but some other fun stuff. He happened to mention something you should do when changing strings that made sense, but I'd never heard it before. Once it's tuned up, he said to push down on the string just in front of the bridge saddle, to create a sharper angle at the saddle. So I was setting intonation after I changed the strings last time, and once I had it in tune open and at 12, I pushed down the string, and it went flat again at the 12th fret. This happened a few times. I can't see it being a good thing to keep creating another break angle by pushing down the string, so I assume you only do that once, but then after you readjust the intonation, that break angle will now be behind the saddle, or possibly even weirder, in front. So this is now confusing.

Thoughts?

I have seen lore about this out in GP, but I haven't seen a good explanation of reasoning. All my basses work fine without, so it is part of the ritual that I ignore.

and if you're inclined to re-intonate ...and not change strings, you'll probably have to change strings.

Never heard of that one. Maybe it's a Brit thing. I tune new strings F, Bb, Eb, Ab and let 'em sit overnite.

Stretches them. After a few hours they're only slightly #.

You had me thinking you played something like this:

 

[PillO]

Oh. I just tune them, then stretch them by pulling up, retune, rinse and repeat until they stay in tune after stretching it.

Likewise - a little slappity poppity and they are fine.

 

[Chucky Stiletti]

And the survey says...

Some surprising results, which may explain why I just never worry about 4 string neck sizes. Takes me all of two seconds to get used to a new four string neck size. Five string is a different beast with vastly different string spacing and neck width options.

Do here's the data (all in glorious inches vs that metric stuff that's so much easier to use):
Note: Heel measured at the 20th fret on each bass, and thickness measured at the 12th fret on each bass.
1978 Music Man Stingray (PreEB) with bolt on neck
Nut=1.625" 12th fret=2.20" Heel=2.40" Thickness=1.0"

1968 Fender Precision Bass with bolt on neck
Nut=1.625" 12th fret=2.250" Heel=2.50" Thickness=1.0"

Epiphone Goth Thunderbird with bolt on neck
Nut=1.50" 12th fret=2.10" Heel=2.33" Thickness=1.0"

Epiphone Thunderbird Vintage Pro with through neck
Nut=1.50" 12th fret=2.10" Heel=2.33" Thickness=1.0"

Gibson Thunderbird Gold Anniversary Edition with through neck
Nut=1.50" 12th fret=2.10" Heel=2.33" Thickness=1.0"

And there ya have it, not a ton of difference in these necks once you get past the nut.

Oh and because it's Thunderbird Thursday I'll post the measurement staging area...
View attachment 3390731
....yes, that's a mouse. Apparently "mouse" is the new "shoe" as defined by trendsetter @fasterpussycat

very cool. thx. curious they all measure exactly 1.00" at the 12th fret.

 

[GBassNorth]

Beautiful collection, and thanks for the results! Real nice!

No problem, was kinda curious myself since so many people claim the Thunderbird neck is thin by Fender standards. Yes, it's thinner but after the first couple of frets not by much.

If you're Thunderbird curious I'd strongly suggest buying the Epiphone Thunderbird VP (it's the black one with chrome pups and hardware in my picture). It's a fantastic bargain and a solid professional level player with a really outstanding vintage vibe. Since I bought mine my P bass gets a lot less action.

 

[BklynKen]

You had me thinking you layed something like this:

That's the kind of thing that snaps headstocks off Thunderbirds.

 

[MCF]

Do you have 'bee's dick' as a unit of measure?

So is that how we’ll start measuring string height on here?

 

[PillO]

And the survey says...

Some surprising results, which may explain why I just never worry about 4 string neck sizes. Takes me all of two seconds to get used to a new four string neck size. Five string is a different beast with vastly different string spacing and neck width options.

Do here's the data (all in glorious inches vs that metric stuff that's so much easier to use):
Note: Heel measured at the 20th fret on each bass, and thickness measured at the 12th fret on each bass.
1978 Music Man Stingray (PreEB) with bolt on neck
Nut=1.625" 12th fret=2.20" Heel=2.40" Thickness=1.0"

1968 Fender Precision Bass with bolt on neck
Nut=1.625" 12th fret=2.250" Heel=2.50" Thickness=1.0"

Epiphone Goth Thunderbird with bolt on neck
Nut=1.50" 12th fret=2.10" Heel=2.33" Thickness=1.0"

Epiphone Thunderbird Vintage Pro with through neck
Nut=1.50" 12th fret=2.10" Heel=2.33" Thickness=1.0"

Gibson Thunderbird Gold Anniversary Edition with through neck
Nut=1.50" 12th fret=2.10" Heel=2.33" Thickness=1.0"

And there ya have it, not a ton of difference in these necks once you get past the nut.

Oh and because it's Thunderbird Thursday I'll post the measurement staging area...
View attachment 3390731
....yes, that's a mouse. Apparently "mouse" is the new "shoe" as defined by trendsetter @fasterpussycat

Thank you; very enlightening. I guess this is why I don't worry to much about nut width and instead focus on how the neck feels to play. And especially appreciative of doing the measurements the hard way - unmetrical.

 

[PillO]

Cute mouse.

Ahem?

 

[JJR58]

Also agree. Some difference's between them.......... Just grab and go.

 

[GBassNorth]

very cool. thx. curious they all measure exactly 1.00" at the 12th fret.

As opposed to the word "exactly" I'd use the word "virtually". The Thickness measurement was difficult to take with the strings on and I was trying to be careful not to gouge the back of the neck with the calipers, which are fairly sharp. That said, I'd estimate they are all within a couple of hundredths of an inch of each other. Basically just two or three RCHs difference at most.

 

[Dr_Feelgoood212]

That's the kind of thing that snaps headstocks off Thunderbirds.

Not if you use them for their intended purpose, down tuning. Then the tension should be similar to a 45-105 set tuned to E standard.

 

[GBassNorth]

Cute mouse.

You can hold it if you like.