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Thunderbird Club

Copy that but do you have a G&L with the "MFD" Humbuckers ??
I'm REALLY hoping someone has experience with these, I mean from my experience, not
even Mudbuckers were able to do this!!
As may have been pointed out by now, MFDs are amazingly powerful. They will tend to suck some strings down more than others. I set my action then PUs, and have the strings pretty close. But I don't play like I'm chopping wood, so It's never been a problem. As you will find...those suckers are still way loud cranked all the way down!
 
Copy that but do you have a G&L with the "MFD" Humbuckers ??
I'm REALLY hoping someone has experience with these, I mean from my experience, not
even Mudbuckers were able to do this!!
I have an L2k with the MFD humbuckers. Just lower the pickups a little at a time until you are satisfied. You can probably drop them quite a bit, especially the neck pu. Yes, they are very powerful! They will, however, reward you with a tone that is all their own. :thumbsup:
 
As may have been pointed out by now, MFDs are amazingly powerful. They will tend to suck some strings down more than others. I set my action then PUs, and have the strings pretty close. But I don't play like I'm chopping wood, so It's never been a problem. As you will find...those suckers are still way loud cranked all the way down!
Well,
I guess this is a good a spot if any for an update, first of all thanks for all The GREAT advise!! I cranked the PUs down which is kind of an acquired technique. I wasn't able to get that much movement which was rather concerning at first, I like to roll back on the bridge PU & that's when I first heard the BOOM LOL but now it's OK & so for the last couple of hours I've been exploring the dynamics of this BEAST along with the nuances of "EB Cobalt Flatties" I don't know if I'm absolutely sold on them yet but it's been interesting, I can see what all the chatters about although I must say that DR BB Tapered Heavies are still the best thing since sliced bread ESPECIALLY On a TBird, in fact I'm absolutely convinced those strings were developed exclusively for them!!

My main complaint thus far is no passive mode, to me, that's the true voice of the instrument, not to mention you ALWAYS need an escape hatch live, being it's an 18v is preferable but still!!
if I keep her I have to correct that so I can finally hear what she REALLY sounds like!
Thanks Again Everybody :bassist:
Cheers
 
Well,
I guess this is a good a spot if any for an update, first of all thanks for all The GREAT advise!! I cranked the PUs down which is kind of an acquired technique. I wasn't able to get that much movement which was rather concerning at first, I like to roll back on the bridge PU & that's when I first heard the BOOM LOL but now it's OK & so for the last couple of hours I've been exploring the dynamics of this BEAST along with the nuances of "EB Cobalt Flatties" I don't know if I'm absolutely sold on them yet but it's been interesting, I can see what all the chatters about although I must say that DR BB Tapered Heavies are still the best thing since sliced bread ESPECIALLY On a TBird, in fact I'm absolutely convinced those strings were developed exclusively for them!!

My main complaint thus far is no passive mode, to me, that's the true voice of the instrument, not to mention you ALWAYS need an escape hatch live, being it's an 18v is preferable but still!!
if I keep her I have to correct that so I can finally hear what she REALLY sounds like!
Thanks Again Everybody :bassist:
Cheers
You are talking about a G & L L2000 right? It absolutely has a passive mode. Just flip the little switch closest to the bottom of the bass fully towards the bottom of the bass. That's passive. If you are not talking about an L2000 ignore what I just wrote!
 
Well, with all this G&L L2000 talk going on I figured I might as well show you all my built to my specs 2014, with k switching option, in honeyburst:

20200403_233749.jpg
 
You are talking about a G & L L2000 right? It absolutely has a passive mode. Just flip the little switch closest to the bottom of the bass fully towards the bottom of the bass. That's passive. If you are not talking about an L2000 ignore what I just wrote!
It's a 2019 L2500, don't see a switch & the previous owner said there wasn't one although I sure wish there was!!
IMG_20200401_181833199.jpg
 
My LPB 2/5, my only active bass*, sounded amazing when I first got it, but bit by bit the tone got punier and it started breaking up-in a bad way. I thought maybe the jack had gotten loose or sumpin', so I took off the plate for the control cavity. Imagine my surprise at seeing a 9V in there.:facepalm: Duuh.


*I didn't know it was when I bought it
:roflmao: That's just funny! For those of us with age, who knew basses needed batteries!
 
:) Thanks! Having it out again got me thinking that I could build another just like it as all the same parts are available. But frankly I would only consider doing so as a commission and it would definitely be in FCS territory price-wise. Although it wouldn't have the FCS certificate - it would be every bit the same level of craftsmanship.
:thumbsup:

Something to keep in mind, for sure! I was somewhat thinking my next bass would be something of a '55 Pbass with Thunderbird PUs, like RS Guitar Works does. I wouldn't want it aged, but I love the 2 edition Pbass and the sound of TBird PUs would be a win/win. I've got a couple small projects for them they will work in for me, and I'm afraid they will have one of these on hand when I visit!

RS Guitar Works, Winchester, Kentucky (No affiliation)
IMG_2642_740x.jpg
 
That is one of the coolest birds on the planet. I get weak in the knees when someone posts a pic of it on here....So I’m thinking. Pick up a VP blem and send it to one of the reputable refinishers. It would be worth it and still come out somewhere around $1000. A bargain for a unique bird when you think about it.
You'll hear no argument from me!

Just post the pics!