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U.S. Peavey Club

Only up to a point, but this is not probably the best venue to discuss this. Some very reputable individuals that work in the field have tried to address this problem on this very same forum. See for example: Getting the Facts about Ski Jumps
In particular, as the deformation normally happens outside of the neck pocket, it is difficult to consider shims, microtilts, the number of bolts as the main causes for the problem. Similarly, stiffening rods that do not run over the portion of the neck where the deformation is most likely to happen (the transition between the bolted part and the "free" part) are not likely the most effective solution.

Right, that's exactly what I'm saying...the attachment point is clamped down permanently to the body while the rest of the neck is free to move around under string tension, environmental conditions, how it is stored, etc.

It seems pretty clear that a truss rod system will always work better with a stronger piece of neck wood. Some truss systems are more effective than others. Some guitars were built without any truss rods at all. I don't think a micro-tilt necessarily causes a ski jump, but the space created inside the pocket may very well contribute to an already existing problem.

Stiffening rods, deeper neck pockets, multi-lam necks, carbon fiber/graphite necks etc., are all construction techniques used to accomplish one goal...strengthening the neck as much as possible. I could be wrong but it seems to me that a multi-lam neck (the more lams, the better) may be the best overall solution to neck issues.
 
Hey all, I have a couple general questions about my '89 Rudy Sarzo Sigs. They are a couple of my top tier basses permanently embedded in my herd. Look as I might I could not find this info.
1- what is the wood used for the body wings?
2- is it the same wood for both with only finish change?
3- what are the neck stringers?

These are two of the best basses I ever played (and I have a boatload) that feel like they were custom made for me. Me and Rudy must have "identical" hands"!

Thanks up front.


1986 Peavey Rudy Sarzo Signature Basses.jpg
 
Hey all, I have a couple general questions about my '89 Rudy Sarzo Sigs. They are a couple of my top tier basses permanently embedded in my herd. Look as I might I could not find this info.
1- what is the wood used for the body wings?
2- is it the same wood for both with only finish change?
3- what are the neck stringers?

These are two of the best basses I ever played (and I have a boatload) that feel like they were custom made for me. Me and Rudy must have "identical" hands"!

Thanks up front.


View attachment 4624446
Your answers, all your answers, can be found here: Invalid Link Removed
Apparently, for this particular manual, they were lazy...
An educated guess could be maple purple heart for the neck (it was commonly used in other models). Ash body?
 
Last edited:
Hey all, I have a couple general questions about my '89 Rudy Sarzo Sigs. They are a couple of my top tier basses permanently embedded in my herd. Look as I might I could not find this info.
1- what is the wood used for the body wings?
2- is it the same wood for both with only finish change?
3- what are the neck stringers?

These are two of the best basses I ever played (and I have a boatload) that feel like they were custom made for me. Me and Rudy must have "identical" hands"!

Thanks up front.


View attachment 4624446
Ash body wings. I have a husk that the neck was messed up. Gonna try and route a neck pocket for it and put a USA Grind neck on it.
received_273934910762542.jpeg
 
Ash body wings. I have a husk that the neck was messed up. Gonna try and route a neck pocket for it and put a USA Grind neck on it. View attachment 4625375
Personally a black trans would be the way I go

Or even blue/ teal aqua like trans

but all though it’s a beautiful bass and woods… a solid colour like a charcoal anthricite/ carbon colour would be cool
 
I think lots of basses are bought new and never get set up correctly (or at all) and the person gives up on playing after six weeks and the instrument sits there under string tension with the truss rod completely loose and the neck bowed like crazy until finally they sell it 5-10 years later, by then the neck has a problem if it is not a very good neck. New owner gets the instrument and tightens the truss rod which is now fighting not only string tension but a piece of wood that has been bent forward for a long time as well.

I don't think shimming a neck or micro tilt systems create ski jump (as StewMac says they do to help sell their full pocket shims), I just think micro tilt systems suck because they are a waste of manufacturing expense when a shim costs nothing and works better.
I'm still not sure that Peavey made all their truss rod channels in the shape that one example in the video has.

I do think wood selection is a factor, good luthiers are pretty picky about the pieces they make necks out of.
I think there are a lot of thicker P necks that held up better than thinner necks.
It seems that bi-laminated necks and multi-laminated necks also help make them stiff and stable.

THIS. Good necks that are maintained, even when stored and not played, will be okay. I check mine every few days, regardless...at least once a week.
 
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I'll play! The one on the right...?
Yes, you're correct, probably because I got anxious and impatient on the LAST one, so it was on a little off center.

@PeaveyPlayer - Jordan, it's SUPER easy. You just remove the strings and apply the decal, and remove the paper leaving you with the oval. I did the entire bass in less than 30 minutes.
 
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